Help! R1150GS will not start.

[Jamy]

My 2002 15000 mile 1150GS broke down today and needed a recovery truck home. I was cruising up a hill at about 30mph and it just died and refuses to start since. New battery a few months ago, fuel pump primes when ignition turned on, engine turns over normally and I have a spark at each plug and fuel mist issuing from each injector. The rider information display is normal and the fuel filter was replaced last year with some new in-tank pipework and clips.
I've read much today about Hall Effect Sensors and wonder if this maybe the problem. Steve at Rainbow has been very helpful over the phone urging me to check valve clearances and do a compression check. Clearances are fine but a compression check will have to wait until next week when my local garage is open again.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

[Nin]

If it were a compression related issue you'd probably have heard a bang. My money would be on the Hall Effect Sensor.

Lots of info out there, for example http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf

 

[flatdog]

Side stand switch?

 

[Jamy]

I've tried to start the bike on the main stand, side stand up, clutch in etc. and still no go.

 

[Jamy]

Thanks I'll look at that.

 

[Hay Ewe]

I think to take of the plastic cover on the front of the engine, ignition on and turn the engine over by hand.
the fuel pump should prime twice (?) per revoultion - I think.

If it does prime, then it is not the Hall Effect sensor.
CHECK THIS WITH SOMEBODY ELSE BECAUSE I AM NOT 100% SURE

Or it could be the side stand switch, even though you tried it on the center stand, the switch could still be buggered

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Although you mention you can see a mist from the injectors, possible issue with in-tank pump / filter leaking inside the tank ? Worth visual check.

Sidestand switch will stop it for sure. I would short that out to test.

Clutch switch allows starting in gear, not in play if in neutral.

If spark and pump priming, HE sensor is ok, I am pretty sure.

 

[Steptoe]

I think to take of the plastic cover on the front of the engine, ignition on and turn the engine over by hand.
the fuel pump should prime twice (?) per revoultion - I think.

If it does prime, then it is not the Hall Effect sensor.
CHECK THIS WITH SOMEBODY ELSE BECAUSE I AM NOT 100% SURE

Wrong advice.

This is what you need to know... Do as said in the first part of the quoted post above, in fact it's easier and quicker to take the spark plugs out, put the bike into top gear and turn the engine over by turning the backwheel by hand. .

If the fuel pump DOESN'T prime then it's 99% the hall sensor.

Now here's the fly in the ointment... if the fuel pump DOES prime that doesn't mean it's not the hall sensor that's failed. ..

Got that.

I've had a few bikes that start and idle but wouldn't run once the throttle was opened and it's been the hall sensor ..

If it were a compression related issue you'd probably have heard a bang. My money would be on the Hall Effect Sensor.

Not so. A burnt valve will leave you with no compression and doesn't make any bangs, in fact it makes no noise what so ever.

 

[Nin]

Not so. A burnt valve will leave you with no compression and doesn't make any bangs, in fact it makes no noise what so ever.

Fair play. Would a burnt valve be a gradually increasing problem instead of a sudden failure?

 

[Roadcaptain]

I have had 2 valves go 10,000 miles apart and both were sudden failures. One was very hard to start after, the other ran a bit rough but was still ridable. I question whether both mine were caused by using Shell Optimax fuel.

 

[Jamy]

Many thanks for those suggestions. I'll give those a try when I get chance and report back.

 

[Jamy]

Ok. I took the plugs out and turned the engine over by hand with the ignition on and the fuel pump primes once or twice each revolution, can't remember which now!
Next step anyone, or do I need to get that compression test done this week?

 

[flatdog]

messed about with that sidestand switch yet?

I wouldn't do anything else until this is ruled out.

 

[duckspeed]

I would try the side stand switch back to standard maybe the system doesn't like this bridging out lark

 

[Jamy]

If the side stand switch was ok would the engine still turn over with a spark at the plugs? Because that's what I have at present. It always started before with the side stand down and neutral selected.

 

[Uncle-Fester]

Pretty sure the side stand switch prevents power to the starter motor, so no turn over, if it turns over, then the switch is good.

 

[nud1e]

Fuel connectors

Disconnect the fuel connectors and reseat them making sure that they go together with a click. DAMHIK

 

[duckspeed]

I would say if you definitely have a good spark and fuel going in the cylinder then the engine will usually do something
Maybe it's a lack of compression?

 

[Jamy]

I've just carried out a compression test thanks to my local garage. 165 PSI nearside and 185 PSI for offside cylinder. Rechecked spark at plugs whilst doing this and both spark strong and regularly. I am thinking now it must be lack of fuel even though the injectors issue tiny droplets when removed with the engine cranking.

 

[Smug]

Take out the air filter and with the lid off the air filter box squirt brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner into the ducting from the air filter box to the engine whilst cranking the starter motor. If it starts when the cleaner is being sprayed then you know that you have a fuel supply problem.