Help sorting 1150GS suspension

brewking

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I have searched the site but not found specific information on this. Can anybody who knows what they are talking about help?

The bike is a year 2000 1150 GS with 54,000 miles on the clock.

The rear shock has just been serviced by ABE. I took it in as the damping was poor and any sharp bumps would shake my head. The shock is a little better now but I can still feel the bumps.

I have tried turning the H-S screw on the bottom of the shock and this slows the compression rate of the spring, is that correct?

My weight is 100kg and The suspension almost fully compresses when I bounce on the seat. Do I need a new spring with a higher rating? Will the OEM shock cope with the new spring or is it better to buy a better shock?

I am based just outside of SW London and would really appreciate somebody who has the same bike to give it a try.

Cheers
 
I have searched the site but not found specific information on this. Can anybody who knows what they are talking about help?

The bike is a year 2000 1150 GS with 54,000 miles on the clock.

The rear shock has just been serviced by ABE. I took it in as the damping was poor and any sharp bumps would shake my head. The shock is a little better now but I can still feel the bumps.

I have tried turning the H-S screw on the bottom of the shock and this slows the compression rate of the spring, is that correct?

My weight is 100kg and The suspension almost fully compresses when I bounce on the seat. Do I need a new spring with a higher rating? Will the OEM shock cope with the new spring or is it better to buy a better shock?

I am based just outside of SW London and would really appreciate somebody who has the same bike to give it a try.

Cheers

Have you turned up the preload?
 
Yes. Should have said that I have tried the preload in various settings.
 
Yes. Should have said that I have tried the preload in various settings.

I've got 2 OEM spare rear shocks and a HAGON I was about to out in my new bike, so that's a third rear shock with 20k.

Your welcome to come over and give a couple a try to see if you have a dud shock from ABE

Have you checked there is fluid in the preload?
 
What tyres are you running, how old / many miles have they done and what pressures are they set at ?

And for the zen question - where do you feel the bumps ? :)

A.
 
Tourance tyres with about 4000 miles left on each. 34psi front and 40psi rear.

The front shock is on the lowest collar setting and works fine. I feel the bumps at the rear.
 
After the ABE work, the pre load adjuster worked better than before, with more adjustment. They did top up the fluid.
 
AndrewD that is a very kind offer and I might take you up on that. Just going to play about with the settings a bit more first.
 
AndrewD that is a very kind offer and I might take you up on that. Just going to play about with the settings a bit more first.

No problem, got a workshop full of tools here so you can have a ride and see how it goes.
 
A bit more info after adjusting a few things.

I increased the pre load on the front and this had the effect of making the rear shock do all the work as the front reacted to bumps after the rear. Set it back to the lowest setting.

Wound up the pre load on the rear and this sorted things out a bit. Then moved onto the screw on the bottom of the rear shock. Fully open and the rear was quite soft, blowing through the travel very quickly. With just a single turn the rear takes a bit more force to react. This is as good as I can get it but it is far from perfect.

I think I am too heavy for the rear shock. Has anyone else found this? Did you buy a new aftermarket spring for the OEM shock or a new aftermarket unit?

Am going to take up the offer from AndrewD and report back in a couple of weeks to see if a different shock improves things.

By fully documenting things I hope to provide a source of info for anybody else with the same problem :thumb2
 
Am going to take up the offer from AndrewD and report back in a couple of weeks to see if a different shock improves things.

By fully documenting things I hope to provide a source of info for anybody else with the same problem :thumb2

Sounds like you need to try the Hagon, it's set for a rider & Pillion plus luggage, the problem I had with stock (I.E current shock) is it pointing at the sky when I'm on the gas hard.

I'd try another stock shock then the Hagon, can do this whenever probably best to combine it with getting the rear shock out of the current 1150.
 
I put a new hyperpro shock on the rear of mine recently and it made a massive difference. They gave a recommendation for setup based on my weight and it was spot on. Keep with it, I'm sure you'll get there:thumb
 
I have tried turning the H-S screw on the bottom of the shock and this slows the compression rate of the spring, is that correct?

That screw controls the REBOUND damping, not compression - so that maybe is where you're going wrong:blast

There is no compression damping on the OEM shock, or many aftermarket ones
 
That screw controls the REBOUND damping, not compression - so that maybe is where you're going wrong:blast

There is no compression damping on the OEM shock, or many aftermarket ones

Certainly be worth winding the rebound up to full and backing it off a turn or two. See how that works for you Brewking.
 
Check that your pre load adjustment is actually working, mine failed at around 20,000 miles. Almost all of the oil was missing although there had been no visible sign of a leak. Turning the knob had almost no effect! Refilled it and it was back to square one again in a couple of months. I still have the shock but have fitted an Ohlins.

John
 
What with ... and how? The pre load doesn't do a massive amount on mine and I'd have a go at refilling it if I knew how.

Unbolt the adjuster cap (WD40 for a coupe of days on the bolt) then holding it up, fill with fork oil etc. You will probably find it's got lots of 'wet' crappy oil in it.
 


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