Hidraulic clutch

Advice? You get what you pay for. How much quality do you expect for $30?!

I'd have thought you'd do better using a second hand master cylinder from an 1150 so you can retain BMW switchgear, mirror, lever and all the other gubbins that's bar-mounted. Not sure about the slave cylinder end but if you can do that with a $30 generic kit it shouldn't be too difficult.
 
It just kills my left hand when stuck in traffic.

.

You shouldn't be holding in the clutch when stationary, even for short periods.

The only time the clutch should be pulled is when changing gear.
 
I'd have thought you'd do better using a second hand master cylinder from an 1150 so you can retain BMW switchgear, mirror, lever and all the other gubbins that's bar-mounted. .

The 1100 switch gear and mirrors aren't usable on an 1150 reservour mount.

Just read the advert and it won't work on an 1100 anyway.
 
The 1100 switch gear and mirrors aren't usable on an 1150 reservour mount.

No, you'd have to have the 1150 switches etc too and probably mess around with the wiring, but my guess was it'd still be a neater solution than an anodised pink lever..... :barf

Just read the advert and it won't work on an 1100 anyway.

Ah yes, I didn't bother reading it before - just looked at the price....

Works on the bike engines that have the main shaft mounted clutch commonly referred to as 'Start In Any Gear' including Lifans, Jialiings, GPX, Pister pros, FTP's, Sikk mx
 
As Steptoe says, I always knock the bike into neutral and let the clutch out at a standstill (for many reasons - comfort, release bearing life, heat, etc, etc). It was also drummed into me by bike and car instructors.

That said, I don't find the clutch on my 1100 especially heavy... (now the 180 Jota I had in my youth - that had a heavy clutch :eek )
 
That said, I don't find the clutch on my 1100 especially heavy... (now the 180 Jota I had in my youth - that had a heavy clutch :eek )

I had one of those and kept a spare clutch cable under the seat as they had a reputation for snapping them . Still had it under the seat unused when i sold it. :D
 
You shouldn't be holding in the clutch when stationary, even for short periods.

The only time the clutch should be pulled is when changing gear.

Yeah, I sayed it wrong... I use the bike for daily commuting between home and job in a very crowded city. So I mostly ride between 2 rows of cars heading the same way. And when I get really stuck in trafic, I shift to neutral.

Anyway, it just kills my hand sometimes...

I was thinking it was a pice of crap too, just wanted others opinion. I don't think the cylinder on that thing could push the pressure diaphragm spring all the way in when shifting, cause it's too small.

Dan.
 
I had one of those and kept a spare clutch cable under the seat as they had a reputation for snapping them . Still had it under the seat unused when i sold it. :D

That bike is the reason I still have a hydraulic cable oiler in my toolbox.

It didn't help though :D
 
Obviously you have had the "no can do" in the info already. From my experience hydraulic clutches are not all they are made up to be and your hand will seize up with these as well.

Get the cable well lubed and all the pivots clean and all should be well. You have to watch what you use on the BMW cable as they have a nylon sleeve. I have had excellent results with Silkopen which has graphite and also neat silicone spray is supposed to be OK.

You cant fit a aerosol oiler block on so the trick is to hold the cable vertical and spray a small amount in until it doesn't sink into the cable any more. Sometimes they need a bit of cable movement to get them going.

I once had a courier bike which needed a cable oil and didn't get one. I finally did it after my hand seized trying to let the clutch out at the lights.

A mate had an old Ducati 900ss that i couldn't pull the clutch in a la Jota! He could!! Hands like shovels and a grip like a Yorkshireman holding his wallet...
 
Clutch

I had similar probs on my K 1100, found the operating pivot o n the top of the cear box seized up. You need to raise the rear frame for access but take it to bits and clean and grease it should improve a lot.
 
Sounds like your cable needs attention
My 1100 clutch is the sweetest ive ever had for a cable clutch..

Pulls in really easy even holding it at the lights..

do a service before spending money on another clutch that might be just as bad.

have ye tried a 1150 to see if the clutch is ok for ya?


ugg
 
Sounds like your cable needs attention
My 1100 clutch is the sweetest ive ever had for a cable clutch..

Pulls in really easy even holding it at the lights..

do a service before spending money on another clutch that might be just as bad.

have ye tried a 1150 to see if the clutch is ok for ya?


ugg

@Steptoe sayed you should not keep the clutch pulled in; I kindda' understand why.

So no more whining... will stick to the 1100gs cable, and when resources available, will go for the 1150GSA hidraulic clutch, that will come with the bike :D
 


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