Maybe it's a pressure sensor then?? Geoff would be able to tell you. He's very knowledgeable and very passionate about it all.
hilltop remapping etc
- Thread starter TLSgazza
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MWH
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Is that the sensor on the left of the bike as you sit on it? Think that ones the air intake temprature isn't it? That's where those accelerator module things go fooling it into thinking its colder so giving more fuel.
Bendy toy
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With two throttle bodies and complex air box to even out the air flows why did BMW not fit just one throttle body with just the injectors at the cylinder head?
Deleted account 211025001
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Like the MG V7?
Who knows why but I suspect they know a wee bit more about the subject than you or I and that performance would be the main concern?
Andres
The MAF sensor, as far as I am aware, measures the volume of air entering the engine so that the ECU can adjust the feeling.
A few years back I had a Seat Leon with the 2 litre diesel engine. The MAF sensor went on the blink: car started ok; ran at low revs ok; but if you were accelerating it sometimes felt like someone had thrown an anchor out at the back of the car.
VW/Seat wanted something like £250 to change the MAF sensor. I went to a motor factor and got a genuine Bosch part for £80 and changed it at the kerbside so that I could get the 'deposit' back against the old one.
A few years back I had a Seat Leon with the 2 litre diesel engine. The MAF sensor went on the blink: car started ok; ran at low revs ok; but if you were accelerating it sometimes felt like someone had thrown an anchor out at the back of the car.
VW/Seat wanted something like £250 to change the MAF sensor. I went to a motor factor and got a genuine Bosch part for £80 and changed it at the kerbside so that I could get the 'deposit' back against the old one.
MWH
Registered user
Had the same with my passat. Felt like the turbo wasn't working. The sensor unit was quite large (hand sized). On my 97 Rav4 there is a sensor in the air box that is just pushed in through a grommet, that is air intake temp and size wise etc is similar to the one in the GS airbox.
Miff, thanks for the AFR graph, that is scarily lean!
Miff, thanks for the AFR graph, that is scarily lean!
Bendy toy
Registered user
I really can't see why one TB would affect performance. Certainly on an all out high revs racer rep the inlet stack does make a difference. But this is a relatively low revving 600cc cylinder. It's got tightly curved inlet tubes just ahead of the throttle bodies so air wont flow evenly though the throttles. Add in the cost, reliability and balancing issues of twin TBs and there can't be any advantage.
Car engines make only a bit less power per litre but they are tuned for torque. They all have single throttle bodies. Cheap, reliable, easy to set up and they don't restrict the air flow. Drop in the same cam profiles and they would match the bike on bhp per litre.
I'm thinking about a remap, but wondering if it's worth doing. I've had the bike just under 3 years and have 44000 miles on it and am thinking of swapping it next year. Would it be better to get one of these accelerator modules to smooth it out. Most of my miles are on open roads at relatively constant speeds.
TIA
TIA
Only you can say if it is worth it - you have a long slog to Leicestershire to get it done.
It's a worthwhile mod, in my opinion - but adding in fuel and time................ ????
Read the two main (lengthy) threads on the subject - and decide.
Al
It's a worthwhile mod, in my opinion - but adding in fuel and time................ ????
Read the two main (lengthy) threads on the subject - and decide.
Al
Bendy toy
Registered user
If you send your bike spec to Hilltop they can tell you if the have a matching map.
You can then send them your ECU for remapping. It won't be quite as good as a dyno tune but should be within a few BHP.
The bike is likely to be so much better you'll not want to change it.
The engines run lean at low throttle settings so as someone has already said gentle runs are likely to be the most harmful.
You can then send them your ECU for remapping. It won't be quite as good as a dyno tune but should be within a few BHP.
The bike is likely to be so much better you'll not want to change it.
The engines run lean at low throttle settings so as someone has already said gentle runs are likely to be the most harmful.
Might have to put the idea on the backburner anyway. Went out for a run and noticed two oil leaks, one on the engine, mainly the right side, but spread so no obvious origin. The second was from the rear shock. The trip to hilltop would not be too onerous as my parents are in south Yorkshire and I make fairly regular visits.
Wasn't wanting to change, just starting to find size and weight a bit much as am a bit arthritic.
Rocketman
Registered user
A bit of an update on my remap ,still very pleased but it hasn't sorted out my stalling problem upon downshift initially it seemed to have sorted this but it did it once last Saturday on a all day ride and once today on a short 2 hr ride .
Bike just cuts out usually at lowish revs between 3rd n 2nd and sometimes between 4th n 3rd , it's pissin me off now as we have a lot planned this year and I could do with getting this sorted .
Any suggestions greatly appreciated ......gav
Bike just cuts out usually at lowish revs between 3rd n 2nd and sometimes between 4th n 3rd , it's pissin me off now as we have a lot planned this year and I could do with getting this sorted .
Any suggestions greatly appreciated ......gav
Change gear quicker 
Rocketman
Registered user
I need u
TimboLeMatelot
Registered user
JUst a quick point to add.....
I had my 12 plate GS re-mapped yesterday at Hilltop and I am very pleased with the result.
With regard to Bendy Toy's comment, as I understand it the bikes run lean at higher revs and the damage will come because of overheating of the exhaust valve i.e lean mixture, higher revs, more load, higher exhaust gas temperature = potential to damage. Geoffs advice to me prior to re-mapping was to keep below 5000rpm.
My bike was running AFR of 15+, far from ideal!
Short on time this evening but I intend to post my dyno run results on here. For me its a no brainer, remapping is the best solution and will get the best out of the bike with the minimum of work.
I had my 12 plate GS re-mapped yesterday at Hilltop and I am very pleased with the result.
With regard to Bendy Toy's comment, as I understand it the bikes run lean at higher revs and the damage will come because of overheating of the exhaust valve i.e lean mixture, higher revs, more load, higher exhaust gas temperature = potential to damage. Geoffs advice to me prior to re-mapping was to keep below 5000rpm.
My bike was running AFR of 15+, far from ideal!
Short on time this evening but I intend to post my dyno run results on here. For me its a no brainer, remapping is the best solution and will get the best out of the bike with the minimum of work.
So, if you have your bike remapped, Geoff recommends not to rev it over 5000rpm?
Sorry to hear that. Mine does the same thing (2010 TC)
That was my reason for wanting a remap. I'm in Northern Ireland, so a trip to Geoff will be expensive, travel will be similar price to the re-map.
Found a guy in Dublin who apparently doing the same thing on a dyno.... So prob gonna try him as the weak Euro will make it inexpensive for me.
Rocketman
Registered user
Good luck with your remap , I think I'm gonna try replacing my clutch switch and then see if the problem persists
I'll keep you posted
I'll be passin your way in May on the way to the nw200 I'll try and bring some good weather with me
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