you'll need a Torx T30 driver, 10 and 8mm sockets, a tub to put all the screws in (34 i think) and space to put all the bits.
first, take of the seat(s), then remove the side panels. undo these two screws on each side
and then the two underneath, at the front
side panel pulls off forwards. it’s slotted onto a fixing each side, low down on the panel.
remove tank cover.
undo these screws
pull the cover forward and up. there’s a lip that fits under the front of the filler cap.
now you are meant to take the silver side panels off. this is not strictly necessary, as the tank will slip between them with minimal flexing, but take them off by undoing these screws.
lift the panels up and away complete with indicators. there is a small locating tang on the panels top edge that locates in the plastics behind. looks easy to snap off if you don’t know it’s there.
indicators can be unplugged, or left to dangle on the wires depending how much of a cowboy you are.
note: wires need to be fitted back in their recess just so when refitting the panel or it won’t sit right.
to remove the tank.
close fuel cocks and remove the balance pipe.
note: if you don’t reopen the taps on reassembly, you’ll run out of petrol with several bars still showing on the gauge. if this happens to you, open the taps and cancel the RAC man - DAMHIK.
undo the QR connector at the front of the engine under the radiator. this should be cleaned before disassembly. i put a nitrile glove finger over the ends too. don’t want bits of crap in the FI.
undo the white electrical connector while you’re down there.
detach the black electrical connector and remove the bolt on the top of the tank.
pull off the 2 breather hoses
take out these screws at the back of the tank
undo this screw on each side if you don’t have crash bars
and these screws if you do
these two screws fix rubber locating blocks that fit in recesses in the tank. i think the manual says to take the silver plastic protection plates off. as i recall that is not actually required. you'll need a T45 Torx bit if you do.
take the tank off. probably should have mentioned earlier, but it’s a lot easier if it’s empty
make sure neither of the previously mentioned locating rubbers have fallen out as the tank is removed, bounced away and got lost. this is worse if you didn't really understand how things were fixed and don't notice the loss until you come to reassemble things some while later. again DAMHIK
push off the awkwardly placed breather pipe at the back of the airbox and undo this connector.
undo the peripheral screws on the airbox lid and lift off.
be careful doing them up as they are self tappers and they can strip. if this does happen, longer screws are available from KTM apparently.
reassembly is simply a reversal of these steps as they say in all the best manuals.
if i've left anything out...sorry...it was a while ago and the memory's not what it was, which was never much.
there is a copy of the 1190R service manual lurking on the web somewhere if you look. covers the subject quite well, if a little disjointedly.
first, take of the seat(s), then remove the side panels. undo these two screws on each side
and then the two underneath, at the front
side panel pulls off forwards. it’s slotted onto a fixing each side, low down on the panel.
remove tank cover.
undo these screws
pull the cover forward and up. there’s a lip that fits under the front of the filler cap.
now you are meant to take the silver side panels off. this is not strictly necessary, as the tank will slip between them with minimal flexing, but take them off by undoing these screws.
lift the panels up and away complete with indicators. there is a small locating tang on the panels top edge that locates in the plastics behind. looks easy to snap off if you don’t know it’s there.
indicators can be unplugged, or left to dangle on the wires depending how much of a cowboy you are.
note: wires need to be fitted back in their recess just so when refitting the panel or it won’t sit right.
to remove the tank.
close fuel cocks and remove the balance pipe.
note: if you don’t reopen the taps on reassembly, you’ll run out of petrol with several bars still showing on the gauge. if this happens to you, open the taps and cancel the RAC man - DAMHIK.
undo the QR connector at the front of the engine under the radiator. this should be cleaned before disassembly. i put a nitrile glove finger over the ends too. don’t want bits of crap in the FI.
undo the white electrical connector while you’re down there.
detach the black electrical connector and remove the bolt on the top of the tank.
pull off the 2 breather hoses
take out these screws at the back of the tank
undo this screw on each side if you don’t have crash bars
and these screws if you do
these two screws fix rubber locating blocks that fit in recesses in the tank. i think the manual says to take the silver plastic protection plates off. as i recall that is not actually required. you'll need a T45 Torx bit if you do.
take the tank off. probably should have mentioned earlier, but it’s a lot easier if it’s empty
make sure neither of the previously mentioned locating rubbers have fallen out as the tank is removed, bounced away and got lost. this is worse if you didn't really understand how things were fixed and don't notice the loss until you come to reassemble things some while later. again DAMHIK
push off the awkwardly placed breather pipe at the back of the airbox and undo this connector.
undo the peripheral screws on the airbox lid and lift off.
be careful doing them up as they are self tappers and they can strip. if this does happen, longer screws are available from KTM apparently.
reassembly is simply a reversal of these steps as they say in all the best manuals.
if i've left anything out...sorry...it was a while ago and the memory's not what it was, which was never much.
there is a copy of the 1190R service manual lurking on the web somewhere if you look. covers the subject quite well, if a little disjointedly.
