How to change a front wheel spoke

[retardedignition]

Just leaving work the other day, I was chatting away and went to ride off with the granit lock still in the front wheel (TWAT). I've got some new spokes on order and need to change one. Is there a straight forward procedure for freeing off the old spoke and inserting the new. The existing broken spoke seems quite firm in the rim edge, so I didn't want to set forth with a club hammer (just joking).

TA

 

[Spout]

so I didn't want to set forth with a club hammer (just joking).

You might find it's the only way to go.

Do a search on "spokes". Then get yourself a few spare hours, charge your drill, collect assorted hammers..............good luck.

 

[retardedignition]

I started with a search but found nothing on the removal, just tightening with a ping. Thought I'd ask the question as someone may have replaced one.

 

[Steptoe]

It can be a [URL="http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274867&highlight=spokes"]NIGHTMARE[/URL] depending on how old your bike is and how long the spoke nipples have had to secure themselves in place

 

[Number 6]

I started with a search but found nothing on the removal, just tightening with a ping. Thought I'd ask the question as someone may have replaced one.

I've recently removed 80 of the feckers and it took me 7 hours in total

Slacken off the grub screw and loosen the nipple a few turns. Using a torx socket an extension bar and a hammer, drive the nipple towards the rim. If the spoke moves, loosen the nipple a few more turns and hammer it again. Repeat until the head of the spoke comes out of the rim. Grip the spoke with a strong pair of mole grips and hammer it all the way out until the threaded part enters the rim. You then need to hammer it back in again, then out again and so on until it comes out.

 

[retardedignition]

Thanks for the reply. The torx headed nipple must have come off when I bent the spoke. I'm left with a fairly full length spoke with a kink on the end nearest the rim.

Are the ends of the spokes in the rim splined and/or tapered to stop them turning?

How did you get the new spokes back in?

Questions Questions !

Ta

 

[Number 6]

Are the ends of the spokes in the rim splined and/or tapered to stop them turning?

How did you get the new spokes back in?

Questions Questions !

Ta

No splines or taper, just corrosion.

Once you get the old spoke out run a 4mm drill through the hole to clean it up, New spoke will drop in easily, oil all parts when re-assembling

 

[retardedignition]

Thanks for the tip.

I've been having a bit of a think and might try trimming the broken spoke down to around 10mm with a dremel and using a g clamp + hollow spacer try and press the old spoke out. bit like a bearing press. The wheel rim looks quite square around the edge, so it migh be poss'

I'll let you know how I get on.

 

[GrinningGSer]

+1 they are barstewards

I do not believe that corrosion is the issue with fairly new wheels, I think that these spokes are simply in so bl**dy tight that they are effectively welded in.
Either that or galvanic corrosion set to work really really fast
Good luck

 

[Number 6]

Either that or galvanic corrosion set to work really really fast
Good luck

That's what it is

The first one I did was only 18 months old, you can see the corrosion as white powder when the spoke comes out.

 

[Pukmeister]

Just a thought, but if you had access to a lathe or knew someone that did (as I do), couldn't a fairly hefty weighted slide hammer be made to screw into the threaded hole of the nipple once the grubscrew is removed, then hammer out the offending nipple from the rim ??

I reckon a heavy weight made from a bit of scrap steel or brass being slid up to a shouldered splindle which then screws into the nipple should have it out, along with a bit of a soak in plusgas.

 

[GrinningGSer]

A slide hammer sounds interesting because at least you could get a correct direction of attack, but you are limited in force, plus the spokes start to bend very easily and then you are fcked.
Even with a good purchase, mine wouldnt twist out, or wnen cut short, so as to avoid bending, they wouldnt bash out.
Drill the head off, very carefully and use a tap to tap it in, is my suggestion.
Then you'll find that the new spokes will not go in, so you'll need to enlarge the hole with a 4mm, if I am correct in my memory

 

[retardedignition]

Finally got round to attempting the spoke replacement on Sunday. Had a bit of a result - it only took me 10 minutes.

Started out with a bit of release oil on the head of the spoke and on the underside of the rim where the spoke passes through. Attached a set of mole grips to the spoke close to the rim and tried to work it back and forth. Once I'd actually got the grips to hold the spoke without springing off, it started to turn. I kept on working the spoke back and forth and trying to push it out of the rim. Once clear of the rim I dropped the tyre pressure and got the spoke clear of the tyre sidewall and sawed off the spoke head with a junior hacksaw, before pulling the spoke back through the rim.

The new spoke drifted back through the rim with no problem.