How to check your Final drive bearing - 1100/1150

[flatdog]

yes please

The bearing is 85x120x18 of the 'grooved ball bearing' type and the seal is 85x110x10



If you can compete with the OE price for the bearing (around £37) I'd be surprised as suppliers I've checked want a whole lot more than that. The price for the seal is around £17.

If you can beat those prices you'd probably get a lot of interest on here, though

I'm keen.............

 

[z900guy]

ok that makes the bearing a 61917 probably c3 type .........ill check the price monday ....... the seal should be no more than 4 quid at your local bearing stockist or hes making a fortune ( except by some chance its a strange size) , ill check , .......... ill report back soon

Chris

 

[Steptoe]

ok that makes the bearing a 61917 probably c3 type .........

Thats the bearing.

 

[longdog]

I don't get it... It was only the big seal that went bad... The big bearing is ok as far as I can tell. Can only the rear seal fail for no reason? I use Castrol transmision oil GL5 something...

They all do that Sir!

 

[Shane]

FD seal bearing

Any news on these yet cost wise Z900guy ?

 

[z900guy]

oh the irony of it .............

Set off this morning for a " Four corners " tour of Britain on my trusty 1150

Got as far as Lowestoft which was our first stop on the tour and glance at the bike

Oil all over the back wheel and tyre .........

Yep bearing and seal fooked ......... 5 hours recovery home in stinking hot weather

 

[Graham Hill]

Can anybody help me with advise on gearbox and final drive oil recommendations? I live in Central Asia and modern technology is hard to find at times. I have an 1150GS and normally fly my parts in from UK - thanks Motorworks - and now i want to buy some locally available oil for gearbox and FD and can only get and SAE 80-90. I know the spec is for an SAE 90 will it make a diference if i use the 80-90? Is there any other suggestions or recommendations? I like the suggestion about checking the beaing cage, what about the drive shaft splines? Get quite lonely out here - not any other GS's around nor many other bikes at all - the President doesn't like them. Thanks for any help. Graham

 

[z900guy]

may need replacing shortly ...........

Looks like i will finally get to price these bearings and seals up now ..........fingers crossed I can get a good deal through work

 

[z900guy]

Ok ........ checked out the best price from Skf and that is £62.00 plus vat to me ..... thats cost price to my firm the largest Skf distributor in the Uk

Motoworks £40 quid plus post

ive been offered NKE cheapo foreign bearings at £51.00 plus vat and thats the lowest trade price I can get

So out of interest Ive ordered the Motoworks bearing and will get an expert to assess the quality of this when it arrives

One thought I have had is that there is a sealed version of this bearing available ....... this would ( with one seal removed ) allow splash lubrication of the bearing from the drive side and prevent dirt ingress from the wheel side
grease packing between the seal and the sealed side of the bearing would prevent dust and water ingress ......... maybe extend the life of the bearing especially on dusty or wet trips

Am I on the right track here ?

Chris

 

[MattW]

Ok ........ checked out the best price from Skf and that is £62.00 plus vat to me ..... thats cost price to my firm the largest Skf distributor in the Uk

Motoworks £40 quid plus post

ive been offered NKE cheapo foreign bearings at £51.00 plus vat and thats the lowest trade price I can get

So out of interest Ive ordered the Motoworks bearing and will get an expert to assess the quality of this when it arrives

One thought I have had is that there is a sealed version of this bearing available ....... this would ( with one seal removed ) allow splash lubrication of the bearing from the drive side and prevent dirt ingress from the wheel side
grease packing between the seal and the sealed side of the bearing would prevent dust and water ingress ......... maybe extend the life of the bearing especially on dusty or wet trips

Am I on the right track here ?

Chris

Did you check the price at a main dealer?
I ask as I've heard that dealers are cheaper for these bearings / seals. However I don't know for a fact as I got mine, to keep as 'just in case spares', from ebay (still sealed in BMW bags) from a bloke who'd bought them as spares and then sold his 1150

 

[sockpuppet]

One thought I have had is that there is a sealed version of this bearing available ....... this would ( with one seal removed ) allow splash lubrication of the bearing from the drive side and prevent dirt ingress from the wheel side
grease packing between the seal and the sealed side of the bearing would prevent dust and water ingress ......... maybe extend the life of the bearing especially on dusty or wet trips

I think it was proff who came off at 100 due to his rear bearing failing. I'm not sure its something I'd want to take a chance guessing at.

At £35 for a standard bearing that can do 40k miles easily its not a major expense

 

[Steptoe]

Ok ........ checked out the best price from Skf and that is £62.00 plus vat to me ..... thats cost price to my firm the largest Skf distributor in the Uk

Motoworks £40 quid plus post

ive been offered NKE cheapo foreign bearings at £51.00 plus vat and thats the lowest trade price I can get

So out of interest Ive ordered the Motoworks bearing and will get an expert to assess the quality of this when it arrives

As i've posted many times, BMW main dealers are the cheapest supplier of this bearing

The cheapest my own bearing man can supply one for was £44. And that was some while ago.

 

[MattW]

As i've posted many times, BMW main dealers are the cheapest supplier of this bearing

The cheapest my own bearing man can supply one for was £44. And that was a while ago.

And not just for bearings.
I've just phoned my local dealer about a clutch cable (want a spare to take away with me) - £5 cheaper than Motorworks and they even have one in stock

 

[z900guy]

Bearing arrived today ......... no need to get it checked by anyone

Its a top quality FAG bearing still in factory packaging with 2009 date code

 

[magno]

Mine failed whilst in Ukraine last week.
Ordered a Russian made bearing & seal which arrived the next day!
Bearing is made differently to the original equipment part. The cage is not visible as the bearing has what looks like a bronze part which covers the ball races.
Rode back to UK with no problems.
Best part:
Bearing £11
Seal £2

 

[Canuck]

For the record

BMW charge £34 for the bearing.

 

[(RIP) Yamaha1]

I was noticing recently on my 40k miles '96 1100GS a faint but noticable vibration through the handlebars. This was at cruising speed - say 60 - 70mph.

It seemed to be about every 4 secs, and seemed to last a couple of seconds - and felt like it was coming from the front wheel area.

I decided to remove the front calipers and listen to the wheel bearings - silence!!

So, maybe it's coming from the rear wheel? I had just ordered the large bearing, seal, and o-ring from Motorworks ( £60 ) with the intention of removing the seal and checking the large bearing at some stage.

I brought this plan forward, and removed the seal yesterday, and after a careful wipe of the bearing - perfect - no rivets missing - but when I drained the oil and put a magnet through it, it showed some minute little metal flakes, as did the magnetic drain plug - looked like tiny flakes of chrome plating to me. Hmmm.

I thought, in for a penny - in for a pound, so I bought the required 7mm allen driver, and removed the FD housing. No sign of any swarf - just a further trace of these tiny slivers of metal. The taper bearing and ring was perfect - so I assumed it can only be coming from the large bearing - it'll have to come off!!

This was the most difficult part of the operation, it turned out - the crown wheel assy came out of the cover with just a mallet tap.

I heated the crown wheel and bearing up to the recommended 80c - but as my puller wouldn't fit under the bearing, I tried a slide hammer. This didn't even start to budge the bearing - but then I came across a large cold chisel that would go in the gap - but it took a persistant attack - and one reheat, before the bearing yielded !!

After cooling, I washed the bearing in petrol, and examined it closely with a jewellers loupe. The inner race of the outer ring looked perfect - but, the outer race of the inner ring was quite pitted in places!! This was obviously where the tiny slivers of metal had come from - and the bearing sounded decidedly rough when spun - totally different to the new replacement.

Feeling decidedly chuffed at my newfound diagnostic skills I proceeded to carefully clean all the parts, before putting the crown wheel assembly into the freezer for an hour - and the new bearing into the oven at the recommended 80c for about 15mins. As others have predicted - the roasty hot bearing slid onto the ice cold crown wheel assy easily, with a reassuring "clunk". Result!!

I have just finished reasembling everything, and am going to take the bike out for a test drive this afternoon - so will report the result later.

Mike

 

[Steptoe]

I I proceeded to carefully clean all the parts, before putting the crown wheel assembly into the freezer for an hour - and the new bearing into the oven at the recommended 80c for about 15mins. As others have predicted - the roasty hot bearing slid onto the ice cold crown wheel assy easily, with a reassuring "clunk". Result!!

Mike

No need for ovens or freezers.

An old sandwich toaster/hotplate. 5 minutes at regulo 6, bearing just drops onto the flange.

Also heats up cases evenly with the heat top and bottom, larger cases just leave it open and flat.





[/

 

[(RIP) Yamaha1]

OK on your method, Neil - and thanks. Don't actually have one of those here - and because I had the oven on, wifey decided to bake me an apple cake!!

Double result.

Not sure if there is an easier way to remove the old bearing - that was the worst part of the job.

Whether it would be possible, once you take the hot assembly out of the oven, you could use one of those freezer sprays to cool the casing, whilst leaving the bearing hot, I don't know. Only just occured to me, that idea!!

Didn't get a chance this afternoon for that test ride - as access to my workshop is difficult - up a narrow back lane - I decided to do a few more jobs on the bike before I take it out.

Mike

 

[slaphead GSER]

FD Bearing 1150

Question for the clever people out there , a mate of mine ( who is a member of this site ) is on holiday in Europe and his FD bearing has just failed for the third time . It was replaced by BMW the first two times who dont seem to look at the reason it failed , they just seem to replace it . Is there a way of checking the alignment of the shims or some way of stoping it from happening again as I would think this problem has been there since the bike was new !