How to remove 1150 tank... help please.

[unibar]

Try this

OK its a guide on how to change your suspension, but I did my front suspension and the tank removal is in there, I managed and have not touched a spanner for 20 years!!

http://www.advrider.com/Wisdom/GSOIAv1.2.pdf

good luck

 

[luke scott]

Well considering that I am a complete numpty with anything mechanical I still managed to remove it & put it back without any complications. I suspect having quick release clips on the fuel hoses makes a difference. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Keith Chapman]

And dont forget to check that you have not dislodged the throttle cables after you have put the tank back on, or you will be starting a new thread "my bike is running rough etc"

 

[MattW]

Well considering that I am a complete numpty with anything mechanical I still managed to remove it & put it back without any complications. I suspect having quick release clips on the fuel hoses makes a difference. Thanks for all the advice.

QD's do make a difference - I'm buying some for my 1100

 

[Packer]

I suspect having quick release clips on the fuel hoses makes a difference.

Check that the connectors aren't leaking when the engine is running. It's very easy to damage the small "O" rings in the connectors as you reconnect them. A leak will result in petrol staining to the right side of the gearbox. DAMHIK

 

[Aidjay]

And dont forget to check that you have not dislodged the throttle cables after you have put the tank back on, or you will be starting a new thread "my bike is running rough etc"

Wise words. Happened to me. Managed to figure it out, but it caused a brief moment of "What the hell is the problem now!".

 

[Welshman]

So just one bolt and undo the one petrol quick release thing on the rhs ? Or how many petrol hose clips ?

And the fuel pump connection block!!!!

 

[Tarka]

And once again...ad nauseum...a cursory glance at a fekking manual would have obviated all of this.

 

[luke scott]

And once again...ad nauseum...a cursory glance at a fekking manual would have obviated all of this.

Why ? If you just read the manual it would not have told you things like "mind the throttle cables" etc etc. The www is better than the manual.

 

[Timolgra]

Why ? If you just read the manual it would not have told you things like "mind the throttle cables" etc etc. The www is better than the manual.

Exactly All this 'read the manual' bollox would have many jobs done in a very long winded way Eg, fork seals etc etc

 

[motobiker]

Exactly All this 'read the manual' bollox would have many jobs done in a very long winded way Eg, fork seals etc etc

but of a contradiction there chap.

If BMW wanted their mechanics to do a simple task like changing the battery in the most 'long winded' way possible.. then they would say. remove the tank... and not simply lift it up.

I don't doubt there are quicker ways to do some jobs.. but not changing the battery.

Seems to me.. removing the tank is making a really simple job - long winded.

wonderfully perverse.

 

[Timolgra]

but of a contradiction there chap.

If BMW wanted their mechanics to do a simple task like changing the battery in the most 'long winded' way possible.. then they would say. remove the tank... and not simply lift it up.

I don't doubt there are quicker ways to do some jobs.. but not changing the battery.

Seems to me.. removing the tank is making a really simple job - long winded.

wonderfully perverse.

BMW don't write Haynes manuals.... chap

 

[motobiker]

BMW don't write Haynes manuals.... chap

I wasn't talking about the Haynes Manual. (or Clymer) I was referring to the manual they supply to their mechanics. The little (service and technical) handbook that came with the bike says the same. I'm not daft enough to risk the wrath of Tarka. I do... RTFM. (both of them)

 

[MattW]

but of a contradiction there chap.

If BMW wanted their mechanics to do a simple task like changing the battery in the most 'long winded' way possible.. then they would say. remove the tank... and not simply lift it up.

I don't doubt there are quicker ways to do some jobs.. but not changing the battery.

Seems to me.. removing the tank is making a really simple job - long winded.

wonderfully perverse.

Does it make you titter or giggle?

 

[motobiker]

Does it make you titter or giggle?

Both.. by turns. then when Tarka pops up with his RTFM. I tend to Howl.

because its obvious that many on this site don't. and then wonder why they have problems.

The tank on this bike has come off once. and that was to swap it for another. The filter was changed early at that time.. just so there was no reason to take the tank off again 8,000 miles later.

I have only one concern.. and thats reliability. and I've had that throughout. apart from a H.E.S. failure. 13 years on a GS without a breakdown. I do nothing special. nothing at all. FFS... when I went to Slovenia... all I did was check the oil and tyre pressures. The bike was serviced a 1,000 or more miles before the trip. The only thing I took for the bike was a stop and go puncture repair kit. No spares.. anything that was suspect was replaced at the service. But nothing was.. 'suspect' that time round.

You can mock me for my strange ideas. all you like. I don't really care. I will continue to use a plain SJ Mineral oil (and never need to top up). and I will continue to not mess with the bike unless its absolutely necessary. and in my view; taking the tank off just to change over the battery.. isn't necessary at all.

 

[MattW]

When I replied to this thread, it was in response to a question that asked how to remove the tank. At the time, changing the battery hadn't been mentioned. Had the OP said that it was the battery that was the issue, I would have mentioned that you could just prop it up

I also agree with Tarka that a manual is a good investment and should be the first port of call for any job like this. That said, the manual does make some jobs unnecessarily complicated - for instance 'by the book', for my bike, tank removal involves all sorts of faffing around de de-pressurising the fuel system etc. Steptoe gave me a great tip recently - just clamp the rubber line from the tank, undo the hose clamp connecting it to the hard line, pull the rubber hose off the hard line, insert an M8 bolt in the rubber line and do the clamp up on the bolt. The top line's bolt gets a washer so you can tell them apart for reconnection. It seals the still pressurised lines perfectly, takes seconds and no faffing around or fuel everywhere.

So why not ask on the forum? - there are people on here who have some good experience to share.

 

[luke scott]

Great thread.... glad I started it. Strangely the tank was not fully removed from the bike when I removed the battery. Having disconnected the three fuel lines and the electrical block I just slid the tank back & rested it on the sub frame. I didnt undo the breather pipes.

 

[Timolgra]

Great thread.... glad I started it. Strangely the tank was not fully removed from the bike when I removed the battery. Having disconnected the three fuel lines and the electrical block I just slid the tank back & rested it on the sub frame. I didnt undo the breather pipes.

Exactly what this thread has proved.
I've been an engineer most of my life and know that any decent mechanic will find a better/easier way with many jobs that are described in full with a manual.

A bit like your first Airfix kit

 

[Tarka]

I've been an engineer most of my life and know that any decent mechanic will find a better/easier way with many jobs that are described in full with a manual.

Only if they read the fekking manual in the first place.

Then apply noggin.


Two things that most of the fekking Herberts on here appear incapable of doing.

 

[Uncle Crumpet]

Only if they read the fekking manual in the first place.

Then apply noggin.


Two things that most of the fekking Herberts on here appear incapable of doing.

There it is again!! What about the" Merkins'???