I want to remove ABS from my rear wheel

Pekkavee

Registered user
Joined
Oct 10, 2007
Messages
573
Reaction score
5
Location
Finland
I have an idea to remove ABS from my rear wheel.
To be able to ride in gravel roads in a more controlled way.
But still have ABS in my front wheel.
We have splendid gravel roads here in Finland thousands of kilometers.

The idea is to put a line from the brake master cylinder directly to the brake caliber.

And then plug the rear brake line to the ABS unit somehow.

Would this work?
Has someone done it?

I have BMW R1100GS with ABS II, no integral or such nonsence.

Pekka
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
I have an idea to remove ABS from my rear wheel.
To be able to ride in gravel roads in a more controlled way.
But still have ABS in my front wheel.
We have splendid gravel roads here in Finland thousands of kilometers.

The idea is to put a line from the brake master cylinder directly to the brake caliber.

And then plug the rear brake line to the ABS unit somehow.

Would this work?
Has someone done it?

I have BMW R1100GS with ABS II, no integral or such nonsence.

Pekka
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Best of luck with that one:thumb
 
No if it doesn't see the rear wheel signal it brings a fault and the ABS goes offline


Is the rear wheel signal the same as the signal from the front?

If it is, rather than being a different frequency of pulse because of the size differential maybe, I'm wondering if he could do it by fooling the abs by feeding it with the same signal from the front, IE simply piggybacking the signal across?

:nenau
 
No if it doesn't see the rear wheel signal it brings a fault and the ABS goes offline
I leave the ABS sensor there. It sees the signal and is trying to do something in the ABS unit when I lock the wheel. But it doesn't affect my braking because I have direct line from my brake lever to the brake caliber. I think.

Pekka
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Is the rear wheel signal the same as the signal from the front?

If it is, rather than being a different frequency of pulse because of the size differential maybe, I'm wondering if he could do it by fooling the abs by feeding it with the same signal from the front, IE simply piggybacking the signal across?

:nenau
Good idea. Thanks Fanum.

Pekka
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Good idea. Thanks Fanum.

Pekka
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:


I guess it depends on how the signals and the difference in them is interpreted by the 'brain'......if it's just looking for a 'no signal' situation, or if it's looking at the variations between back and front in more detail......logically, because of the steering effects and stuff, the abs signal ratio between Front and Back will change whilst riding, so hopefully, as long as it receives a signal 'within parameters', it will accept it and not cut the ABS :nenau
 
It has to see a signal If there is significant variance between front and rear it cuts the ABS since the front is a 19 and the rear a 17 Well.........??? You would need to find out how many pulses per revolution required and duplicate it

it is an old binary system

Circuit front continuity y / n
circuit rear continuity y / n
voltage over 11,9v y / n
Wheel speeds inside parameters y / n
etc etc etc

After having carried out these tests it then monitors wheel phase if there's a difference it switches off ABS and flashes the lamps

it activates once the rate of deceleration exceeds the maximum allowable value rate i.e. just before the wheel locks
if something is outside spec then it just switches off The ABS system!

If your system sees the back wheel going for lock up and expands the rear ABS chamber to release pressure and it still sees a lock up it will switch off the whole system

You are beat Pekka once it is outside specification that is it abs disabled just remove it if you don;t wan't it
 
Also the rear sensor on bikes with electronic speedo drive the speedo so pulses from front wheel would cause an under read on the speedo
 
Is the rear wheel signal the same as the signal from the front?

If it is, rather than being a different frequency of pulse because of the size differential maybe, I'm wondering if he could do it by fooling the abs by feeding it with the same signal from the front, IE simply piggybacking the signal across?

:nenau

This would prevent the ABS operating on the rear brake, however it would never see a variation between the front and rear wheel so the front ABS wont work either.
 
Is the rear wheel signal the same as the signal from the front?

If it is, rather than being a different frequency of pulse because of the size differential maybe, I'm wondering if he could do it by fooling the abs by feeding it with the same signal from the front, IE simply piggybacking the signal across?

:nenau

This would stop the abs acting on the rear wheel but how would the front work? does it not have to have something to compare it to? ie the rear wheel? Seems you would then loose the front ABS as well.


oops an echo.
 
I have an idea to remove ABS from my rear wheel.
To be able to ride in gravel roads in a more controlled way.
But still have ABS in my front wheel.
We have splendid gravel roads here in Finland thousands of kilometers.

The idea is to put a line from the brake master cylinder directly to the brake caliber.

And then plug the rear brake line to the ABS unit somehow.

Would this work?
Has someone done it?

I have BMW R1100GS with ABS II, no integral or such nonsence.

Pekka
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

It may work on the basic 1100 abs system, which isn't linked. The abs control unit will still have the rear pulse from the abs . And think everything is normal.

Not sure how the abs brain will cope if you do lock up the rear wheel while the the modulator is doing it's best, to no effect, to stop a lock up.

Turning the ignition off then back on should clear the fault and put you back to normal, but not very practical if you're locking up the rear everytime.

So summing it up, your idea will work under normal braking, just may throw up a fault if you lock the rear wheel big time.
Try it, it's no big deal if the abs switches off, you can carry on as normal.
Unlike on the servo braked models :D
 
Also the rear sensor on bikes with electronic speedo drive the speedo so pulses from front wheel would cause an under read on the speedo


1200 bikes only - 1100 and 1150 have a cable driven speedo.
 
Try it, it's no big deal if the abs switches off, you can carry on as normal.
Unlike on the servo braked models :D


On The Long Way Round (sorry for raising that again....:D) when arc welding fried one of the bike's ABS brains and they had to abandon the bike and buy a little red Soviet thing, I always wondered why they didn't just make up a brake line and link directly from master to slave cylinder(s).

(I can understand that in the back end of nowhere they wouldn't get hold of a replacement ABS brain, much less know what to do with it if they did, but a local mechanic could bodge up a brake line with ease).

If their bikes were servo models, does that explain why they didn't just undertake this simple fix and carry on with the bike operating non-ABS??

PG
 
I got that story via BM technical when the head honcho was over They had melted the brake switch wire and it couldn't complete the self checks split wires tape up and that was it

A DAMN long flight to Mongolia for SteveB for half an hours work

I don;t think that bike was left (If any of them were?) but then again I found it boring two celebs on bikes with trucks of backup and camera crews when there where plenty of Sam Manicom type folks out there!

You can't really ride the servo ABS models in "Residual Braking" mode for a long distance because there is only so much schit that you can scare into your pants


On The Long Way Round (sorry for raising that again....:D) when arc welding fried one of the bike's ABS brains and they had to abandon the bike and buy a little red Soviet thing, I always wondered why they didn't just make up a brake line and link directly from master to slave cylinder(s).

(I can understand that in the back end of nowhere they wouldn't get hold of a replacement ABS brain, much less know what to do with it if they did, but a local mechanic could bodge up a brake line with ease).

If their bikes were servo models, does that explain why they didn't just undertake this simple fix and carry on with the bike operating non-ABS??

PG
 
On The Long Way Round (sorry for raising that again....:D) when arc welding fried one of the bike's ABS brains and they had to abandon the bike and buy a little red Soviet thing, I always wondered why they didn't just make up a brake line and link directly from master to slave cylinder(s).

(I can understand that in the back end of nowhere they wouldn't get hold of a replacement ABS brain, much less know what to do with it if they did, but a local mechanic could bodge up a brake line with ease).

If their bikes were servo models, does that explain why they didn't just undertake this simple fix and carry on with the bike operating non-ABS??

PG

I'm afraid it's just more TV bollox to make our heroes look heroic. :D

It's a simple job to bypass the servo braking system, and requires no extra parts or any parts "making-up.
All the parts you need are already in place, they just need moving/rotating to accomodate the new non servo brake set up.
Would take about 20 minutes to bypass the brake hydrulics and be on your way..

;)
 


Back
Top Bottom