Ignition Problems Still!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter ANDY LAD
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ANDY LAD

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Thanks to everyone that gave me some suggestions about my starting problems a few months ago.
Tried everything and the problem went away. Sorted I thought.
The problem has come back and I wanted to ask your opinions on some advice I've been given.
Every now and then when I turn the ignition on the fuel pump doesn't whirr into life.
If I turn the key on and off a few times this usually clears the problem.
This happens whether the bike is cold or if we've just stopped for petrol etc on a long run when the engine is warm and it is getting b****y annoying.
I was thinking maybe a relay but someone has said that they think it sounds like the ignition barrel itself.
Could this be correct and if yes can it be stripped and fixed or do I need a new one. If a new one, how much and what about my key? (fits luggage) Can the new barrel be set for my exisitng key?

Many thanks in advance chaps and chapesses.

Andy
 
You need to look at a wiring diagram.

I think you will find that the fuel pump relay is powered by the same supply as the instrument lights (oil pressure warning, battery warning etc), if the instrument light don't come on then it is the barrel .. other wise it is not the barrel and don't waste your money or time.

Is not the fuel pump relay on your bike the same as the horn/load shedding relays? Why not swap the relays around?
 
Can't remember my answer last time. But it sounds like the cable that runs from the key to under the tank. It does not need a new key. Try wiggling the cables around under the key and see if it comes on and off. I remember it costs about 65Euros. And takes ten mins.

Or is that what I said last time...

Lastly obvious and I said it somewhere else yesterday, check your battery is tightened up properly.
 
Sounds to me like it could be the dreaded side stand kill switch – spray a load of WD40 on the connector the sits right next to the side stand pivot then raise and lower the side stand a few times to work it in. Could also be the handlebar mounted kill switch so do the same with that. Both of these, when operated, will have the effect of turning on the ignition lights but not allowing the fuel pump to prime.
 
Here's an odd one. Look at the wiring harness for the ignition switch. It goes from the key to the orange plug under the tank.

I recently had several of the wires in the harness break. Had to cut out and solder the broken wires.

Why did they break? Because of where BMW wire tied the bundle to the rest of the harneses. Turning the handle bars back and forth caused a stress fracture right at the zip tie.

Just something else to look at. Turn on the key, and reach down wiggle the wire bundle, or try turning the handle bars left and right to see if the pump kicks in.

If it is the harness, you CAN replace it without having to re-key the bike. Just unplug from under the tank, and remove a really tiny grub screw on the ignition barrel. The electrical switch assembly drops out from the bottom of the ignition barrel with the wire harness.
 
Guzzler said:
Here's an odd one. Look at the wiring harness for the ignition switch. It goes from the key to the orange plug under the tank.

I recently had several of the wires in the harness break. Had to cut out and solder the broken wires.

Why did they break? Because of where BMW wire tied the bundle to the rest of the harneses. Turning the handle bars back and forth caused a stress fracture right at the zip tie.

Just something else to look at. Turn on the key, and reach down wiggle the wire bundle, or try turning the handle bars left and right to see if the pump kicks in.

If it is the harness, you CAN replace it without having to re-key the bike. Just unplug from under the tank, and remove a really tiny grub screw on the ignition barrel. The electrical switch assembly drops out from the bottom of the ignition barrel with the wire harness.
Dats wot I zed
 
Thanks chaps.
Definately not the side stand or the kill switch.
If either of these is the cause then the bars on the fuel guage don't show. They do on my bike so at least I can rule them out.
Will look at the wiring and relays though.
Silly Question Time.

1. Are the relays in the same place as the fuses? Easily identifiable? Just got myself a Clymers manual so I will look.

2. If it is the wiring will I be able to get it to cut out if I turn the handle bars and wiggle the wiring?

Sorry if these are stupid questions but I'm just getting to grips with working on bikes and not paying for someone else to do it.

Thanks again.

Andy
 
Andy, if its the wiring from the switch to the under tank connector wiggling it around should evoke some kind of a fault. Saying this mine was intermiitent for about 2000 miles before I sussed the frigging thing out...

Good luck...
 
Starting problems..

Hi.. i had a problem with my GS.. started soon after i bought it second hand..

Now and then it wouldnt start.. turn the key.. lights came on,, but wound turn over.. at the time i didnt notice the lack of fuel pump sound when turning key on.. wait a while and it would suddenly work..

I took it too williams BMW in manchester.. the garage guy took one look at my keys, said "Do you have a meta alarm fitted?"..

I did indeed and it was the fault.. it was wired in wrong. The pump was directly wired into the relay.. 40 amps instead of 40 micro amps off the relay.. thus it had blown the meta circuit..

Williams fixed it.. not had a problem since.
I havent read your previous post, so not sure on the details, but do you have a meta alarm? Or an alarm full stop? If so.. might be the problem. Cirtainly worth looking at.. sounds like yours is doing exactly what mine way doing..



Good luck..
PS mine finally burnt out, when i went to williams.. got there, turned it off and it would never restart.. i was lucky it didnt go when i stopped for fuel on the way there..
 


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