west coast traveller
Registered user
Just thought I'd share my recent experience which may be of help at some time (or not)..........most of this has probably been covered on the forum at one time or another but this is my two penny worth..
1150GS, Twin Spark and ABS/Servo -24750miles:
Paralever Bearings
Slight play in the rear wheel which didn't go away when rear brake applied and wheel checked for vertical play, so, diagnoses paralever bearings needing adjustment. Rear wheel removed and heat applied with electric heatgun to left hand bearing and locknut. 30mm spanner and socket + 10mm hex socket (half inch drive). Lock nut and pivot bolt removed and all threads cleaned with aid of acetate (nail varnish remover). sharp point thing and nylon scourer. Pivot bolt replaced and torqued up to about 12Nm then slacken of and torque to required 7nm. Mark the position against swing arm with pencil and tighten lock nut with spanner making sure pivot bolt doesn't move. Finally torque up to required spec with 30mm socket and check pivot bolt still aligned. Replace wheel and check for any free play. Adjust as necessary (can be done with wheel in place) and put a blob of white paint across locknut and swing arm for visual check for any future movement as I can't see the need to use loctite again. Having done the job this way, adjustment should only be a 2 minute job in future. Anyway, I'll let you know if paralever and gearbox part company!!
Coil Packs/stick coils/ignitors (what ever they are called)
24000 mile service and had previously noticed that coil had started to swell and corrode. Plenty of silicone grease applied which slowed deterioration down but on replacing plugs and starting the engine, left coil started smoking to the point where it looked like it would set on fire any moment. Needless to say a trip to the dealers and coils replaced-there is a new part number and as has been said previously, the coils now have a light grey cap instead of black. Hopefully "a design problem" has been sorted. £110 well spent and bike now smoother and fuel consumption improved. So, keep an eye on them-I've kept the right hand on for an emergency spare as this was still working.
Finally -Clutch
Although not slipping, it was right down to it's limits (viewed through the starter motor aperture and no play in lever, so bite the bullet and ordered one from Sherlocks. A fairly straight forwards job (though give yourself a day)-pivoted subframe up out of way using ratchet straps, ABS pipes were a worry but can easily be moved out of way and secured. Removed left and right hand centre clutch bolts first and replaced with home made M8 studs 65mm length (helps guide gearbox when replacing and removing). Battery box doesn't need removing and can be prised off the bottom fixing bolts allowing gearbox removal. Managed to remove/replace transmission unit in one piece single hande with aid of a trolley jack. The unit isn't that heavy, just a bit bulky (no recurrence of my slipped disk yet!) Only two difficult bits which took a while to work out-the earthstrap under the battery box is a bit of a fiddle but has now been relocated;The wiring loom for the gear shift/neutral indicator which is routed under the main wiring loom (located on the left side under the tank) is threaded under a cross piece of the loom so it is a beggar to free. Suffice to say this has now been re routed. All the other connectors easily dealt with.
Took about 9 hours taking my time but will be considerable less time consuming next time.
So hopefully all well for the next 24000 miles at least............................now what else can I spend my money on!
1150GS, Twin Spark and ABS/Servo -24750miles:
Paralever Bearings
Slight play in the rear wheel which didn't go away when rear brake applied and wheel checked for vertical play, so, diagnoses paralever bearings needing adjustment. Rear wheel removed and heat applied with electric heatgun to left hand bearing and locknut. 30mm spanner and socket + 10mm hex socket (half inch drive). Lock nut and pivot bolt removed and all threads cleaned with aid of acetate (nail varnish remover). sharp point thing and nylon scourer. Pivot bolt replaced and torqued up to about 12Nm then slacken of and torque to required 7nm. Mark the position against swing arm with pencil and tighten lock nut with spanner making sure pivot bolt doesn't move. Finally torque up to required spec with 30mm socket and check pivot bolt still aligned. Replace wheel and check for any free play. Adjust as necessary (can be done with wheel in place) and put a blob of white paint across locknut and swing arm for visual check for any future movement as I can't see the need to use loctite again. Having done the job this way, adjustment should only be a 2 minute job in future. Anyway, I'll let you know if paralever and gearbox part company!!
Coil Packs/stick coils/ignitors (what ever they are called)
24000 mile service and had previously noticed that coil had started to swell and corrode. Plenty of silicone grease applied which slowed deterioration down but on replacing plugs and starting the engine, left coil started smoking to the point where it looked like it would set on fire any moment. Needless to say a trip to the dealers and coils replaced-there is a new part number and as has been said previously, the coils now have a light grey cap instead of black. Hopefully "a design problem" has been sorted. £110 well spent and bike now smoother and fuel consumption improved. So, keep an eye on them-I've kept the right hand on for an emergency spare as this was still working.
Finally -Clutch
Although not slipping, it was right down to it's limits (viewed through the starter motor aperture and no play in lever, so bite the bullet and ordered one from Sherlocks. A fairly straight forwards job (though give yourself a day)-pivoted subframe up out of way using ratchet straps, ABS pipes were a worry but can easily be moved out of way and secured. Removed left and right hand centre clutch bolts first and replaced with home made M8 studs 65mm length (helps guide gearbox when replacing and removing). Battery box doesn't need removing and can be prised off the bottom fixing bolts allowing gearbox removal. Managed to remove/replace transmission unit in one piece single hande with aid of a trolley jack. The unit isn't that heavy, just a bit bulky (no recurrence of my slipped disk yet!) Only two difficult bits which took a while to work out-the earthstrap under the battery box is a bit of a fiddle but has now been relocated;The wiring loom for the gear shift/neutral indicator which is routed under the main wiring loom (located on the left side under the tank) is threaded under a cross piece of the loom so it is a beggar to free. Suffice to say this has now been re routed. All the other connectors easily dealt with.
Took about 9 hours taking my time but will be considerable less time consuming next time.
So hopefully all well for the next 24000 miles at least............................now what else can I spend my money on!
