JohnGS1100 Tuning Chip

The rising idle sounds dubious - I wouldn't be happy with that situation as something obviously isn't right with the chip / tuning.

With regards to the oil - I dunno - I'd stick with a quality 20/50 in an oilhead. You can't get something for nothing - the oilhead engines reputation for long life and reliability is probably partly due to their under stressed design and power output. If you uprate the power and increase the stresses on the engine and transmission you'll inevitably increase wear and reduce lifespan. Whether this will be an issue depends on what life and maintenance schedule you think is reasonable... Certainly when BMW raced highly tuned airheads and oilheads in the PD, they had usual race bike maintenance - complete tear downs after every event.

I'm more worried about the ancillary bits and pieces. Final drive etc. my bike is old!

John, I love your chip and I will not be riding in 600cc inline four mode. It is VERY nice to be able accelerate at 8.5 rpm. I will use it but I'm keeping my oil standard and I'll treat my bike nice. Anyway, enjoy your bikes. I'm so glad the fcutards didn't get mine.




Sent by SOB
 
Roger,
In the UK we currently have E5 (5%) Ethanol, which will be changing to the EU wide E10 (10%) Ethanol. rated at 95 RON
You can get 98 RON super unleaded, which is usually the premium unleaded, such as Shell VPower.

In some places such as Austria you can get 100 RON straight Unleaded.

I will find the S/R info for you when I get back from my hol's

Neil

Neil,
Thanks for the info. That makes the S/R is pretty easy to calculate. Gasoline is 14.7 and ethanol is 9.0. Therefore E5 14.4:1 for lambda=1 and E10 is 14.1:1. So you could add 2% to the closed loop area of the map and do no harm, but it wouldn't help much with the driveability either.
 
Don't touch the set throttle screws, these screws are locked for a reason. Once you have moved them you need specialist equipment to reset them!

Exactly.
A lot of this is straying into dodgy territory. Once you start changing multiple variables at once you can end up in trouble.

BMW fixed these little screws, but after some years should adjust again. because the engine has no the same compression both at cylinders, as it was new.

The normal compression (very good) is 12 Bar per cylinder, also 10-12 is "good" and below 10 Bar is "bad". Also after few years the two cylindres have no the same compression.

Many engineers make a mistake trying to settle with a compromise arrangement the idle speed and synchronization at low-middle rpm. They regulating tps and the big screws at throttles in different voltage to have an acceptable idle speed, so the synchronization at low speed is wrong or the iddle speed is wrong. The correct sychronization, is the TS at 0,366 Volts and the big screws at throttles at 2 + 3/4 turns. So at final the iddle speed sould adjust by the little screws behing the throttles, not by the big screws or different setting of TPS.

There is a easy, very easy way for adjusting as BMW was make at the beggining..
I will try to describe on a next time, requires a synchronization gauge, a voltmeter for the tps and 2 screwdrivers, 8mm, 10 mm tools socket wrenches..
 
Motronic

Hi all,

Ok, what is the trick to opening the Motronic to change the chip for Johns one.

Unplugged the motronic and removed from the bike and removed the 4 screws, its on my bench.
I tried pulling it apart but it just won't budge, is the SS clip for the big loom plug a retainer that has to come off first?

Any help please :thumb2

Thanks,
Pablo
 
Gently prise it apart with a screwdriver, it's won't budge because it's also stuck with silicon sealant.
 
Ok I opened the metronic, i didn't realised that the lid was glued on.

Thanks anyway.

Pablo
 
Hi John,

Fitted the stage 4 chip you sent me last week.

Petrol pump does not stop priming and bike does not start.

Bike is 2000 R1150GS single spark.

What do you think could be wrong?


Thanks John,

Pablo from Tasmania
 
Is it wise to seal it back up again, or does it seal well without silicone?

I've had several that have been apart for years without being sealed up again with no problems, although perhaps keeping airborn moisture out is a good thing ..... if it could still get in.
 
Hi John,

Fitted the stage 4 chip you sent me last week................
Thanks John,

Pablo from Tasmania


Check :
1. The direction of chip on the socket.
2. Fit all pins of chips in to shocket.
 
Note that the chip has a small notch in one end. the base the chip is placed, has too a notch.
This shows the direction of the chip when placed again in order not placed upside down.

5. Fit the new chip (notch of chip must be at the same direction by notch of base). Be sure to get in on all the terminals in to base.

After this, take a look around of chip, the terminals must be all into the holes of base
.


Take a read please at this post.
 
Hi John,

Fitted the stage 4 chip you sent me last week.

Petrol pump does not stop priming and bike does not start.

Bike is 2000 R1150GS single spark.

What do you think could be wrong?


Thanks John,

Pablo from Tasmania

Hi Pablo,
I've had exactly the same thing with 3 different chips. Same bike as yours, not sure what is going on. As soon as I replace the original chip all is well again.

Mick

livin' the dream
 
In fairness, I had a dodgy chip from John but the replacement made the bike go like billio. You sure you put it in correctly?
 
Hi all,
Yes I installed the chip the wrong way, I was doing it as the kids were getting home from school and must have got distracted, as I did take a mental note of the orientation of the chip. :blast

Anyway the bike started straight away, went out for a short ride and I can say that it runs much much smoother and so much more responsive.

Thank you all for your kind help and specially to John for all the work that you have put into this project for all of us to benefit from.

I will go out for a longer ride this weekend to really test the new aspects of my new bike.

Pablo
 


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