JohnGS1100 Tuning Chip

I installed my chip at the weekend following the Rhinewest instructions. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be.

One problem: the RID clock reset to 00:00 on start-up this morning. Anyone know why that could be? I'm a little worried.
 
You installed the chip on R1100GS or R850R? The chip does not affect the clock, maybe your battery has lower Voltage.
 
R1100gs. Not sure of the state of the battery but it's strong enough to start the bike so should be strong enough to keep an LED clock going(?).
 
The clock is another problem, the chip does not matter.. Re-adjust the clock and check the cable and the battery status.
 
Hi John I have your stage 5 chip on my standard non-cat 1999 R1100GS with standard air filter and exhaust. Would a Remus exhaust make any further improvement?
 
Clock resetting is almost guaranteed to be a battery on its way out, a loose / bad connection at the battery or loose starter motor magnets. In each case, starting takes so much current that it de powers the clock and it resets.
 
I think that the clock was reset, because it like new start by the new chip :aidan
Anyway, i think that the problem is on the battery or on the cable of battery..
 
I installed my chip at the weekend following the Rhinewest instructions. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be.

One problem: the RID clock reset to 00:00 on start-up this morning. Anyone know why that could be? I'm a little worried.


Check the fuse, my clock kept resetting to 00:00 coz it had blown. ;)
(fuse no. 3 if I remember)
 
Check the fuse, my clock kept resetting to 00:00 coz it had blown. ;)
(fuse no. 3 if I remember)

It hasn't reset since so now I just need to work out how to reset the time and then forget about it. Thanks for the tips, I'll give it a once over next time the tank's off.
 
Hello friends :)
The improvement to R850 is much better, because the maps in to the stock chip is too preservative.
By stage 5 chip the R850R have consumption up tp 55 MPG and the torque and power goes up to 15-20 %.
I think that R850 engine is the best old boxer for tuning, for performance and economy consumption :)


Edit :
Also i need to tell, that the forum (UKGSER) help us to much, we were able to talk constructively, thank so much all forum's friends, especially the English friends who tried to start the CHIPS and applauded my efforts :clap

:thumb2

In the coming days I will present the latest dyno by a special tuning chip based on all maps (R1100S-R1150GS-R-RT-RS) to a R1150 (single spark) with large intake tubes (from RT-RS), big camshafts, free air filter and de-cat special system exhaust for updating knowledge us all :)

:blagblah"Stage 4" Chip Report
R850GS 2000W, standard everything, no cat.

Install
The chip arrived during the week, a few days after ordering, and I set about installing it this morning, albeit with a little trepidation, as I didn't want to F*** anything up on an otherwise perfect bike.

After peeling back the tank, and removing the Motronic box, I suddenly realised I needed a special T27 6 lobe tork head to remove the cover. Sounds straightforwards, but if this had been in some instructions, I'd have been able to pick one up last time I was out and about, not waste a couple of hours in traffic. For reference, make sure the one you get has a sufficiently wide centre hole to accommodate the "pin" on the motronic screwhead, otherwise you'll have to drill it out. I went through 3 different types at the motorist discount centre before finding one which would fit. :(

As soon as I'd got the right one, the screws came straight out and then it was a case of carefully prising open the case, held together by a 5mm bead of clear silicone. Best to take a bit of time doing this, so you don't slip and either injure yourself, or slide the screwdriver into the internals of the motronic. I took my time and all went smoothly, wedging open each corner and working around the unit until it came open easily.

The original chip had a white plastic shield clipped over the top, which was pretty easy to prise off, again done with great care.

Then I just swapped over the chip with the new one, and reassembled everything. I think if I'd had the t27 tork drive, I'd have completed the whole op in about 45mins. It's really not a big job.

Test
The bike started first time, and immediately ran well. Initial observations were that it sounded crisper, and revved more smoothly.
As the bike warmed up, I dropped the choke and it ran on tickover perfectly, again sounding more crisp than before and running smoother.
"there must be a catch" I thought to myself so got my gear on and went of for a spin.
Immediately noticed a quicker throttle response. So when you blip the throttle downshifting, it responds immediately. Less lag.
I found I was able to get up the box a bit sooner as well, with the bike pulling more smoothly low down. It felt more willing.
"there must be a catch" I thought again, so went a bit further, onto some dual carriageway. For some reason, it took me a few miles before I had a clear run without cars, but leading up to the first proper blast, it felt quicker through, and in, the traffic.
As soon as I had a chance to wind the bike up in 4th and 5th I immediately noticed a much stronger pull over 5500rpm:bounce1. I've not seen the power curve charts yet, but this seems to be where the torque starts coming on strong.
Most noticeable is the ability to accelerate strongly from 80mph instilling more confidence on fast roads, and feeling less vulnerable if needing to pull away. I understand the gearing is different on the 1100GS, but on my 850, it feels spot on.

After a good blast for 6-7 miles, I pulled off the dual carriageway, back into traffic and the bike ran perfectly.

Conclusion
Well worth doing. It's given the bike a much "younger" feel. Like taking out the latest model, but without the engine feeling like it's been overtuned. It just feels right. No catch.

Great work John :beerjug: Thanks, I'm already looking forward to my next ride and will keep an eye on MPG.

Next will be the 1100GS with a Remus full pipe, I'll post on that in a few weeks.:thumb
 
Sean put a k&n and a good exhaust. . Then go for a stage 8.... the bike will fly next to standard. ... I know ;)
 
Sean put a k&n and a good exhaust. . Then go for a stage 8.... the bike will fly next to standard. ... I know ;)

Thanks, I bought a 4500 mile 1100gs identical to my 850 in every way, but super low miles, it is currently in storage ready for when the 850 goes. I have a full remus exhaust for it, and wondered which is the best model of filter to put on - assuming only 1 type of K&N therefore?

However, I'd no idea there was a stage 8 chip, and have a stage 5 from John for it.

Best, Sean
 
Sean the K&N is a direct replacement of the original... just remove original and replace. Make sure the colour of the filtering material is red as that means that it has oil in it. Stage 8 is a much better chip, but totally set up as to how I need it. Bags of torque fron 2000rpm .. 30mph in 5th gear and just open up. Makes me grin whenever I ride! 4th gear is my fav though. 25mph to over 100mph... is like an automatic in that gear.
 
What about final speed Sean, Adrian ?
I think that the 850R with stage 5 is like a good stock R1100-1150 :)
Adrian, i said again that your bike with K/N, free exhaust and stage 8 chip, is like 4 cylinder Japanese engine, the power goes up to 8.000+ rpm.
Try lazer double platinum sparks NGK BKR6EQUP for better combustion and economy by hard driving :thumb2

Τhese plugs withstand a wider range of temperatures, engine cold starts and high temperatures have stable performance and achieve sustainable fuel economy.

bild1.jpg


The stage 6-8 chip is a "super-mod chip", it is like stage 5 chip, but has more improvements to special "bosch" maps, injector voltage, time range spark, progressive combustion peak, expand rev limits (plus 1500 rpm), it is only for Circuit training :beerjug:
 
John I will tell you after 1&2 November ... will be going for a short trip. I will be able to evaluate and report back after!
 
Ok :beerjug:

I just wanted to say that I have surprised myself with performing of 850 engine..

I try a stage 8 chip to a R850 new twin spark (2004) and the results are same and better than yours bike.
I want to figure out if the improvement is greater because of the smaller cc​​, lighter smaller diameter piston, linear velocity at TDC etc ??

The striking is that the fuel consumption is much lower than the corresponding engine power. The AFR is correct, not lean, not rich (just correct) but is still economy..
I think the cheap economic power is because the engine is boxer, has better torque at very low until high rpm (by 4-5 L/100km), the 4cylinder engine 85+ Hp has only better power at high but the consumption is very bad (8-9L/100km).. , same power, much better and driveability torque for boxers :eek: Also i think the system "air intakes" by tubes both on incetion thorrotles, due to the long tubes, in conjunction with Κ / N (air filter) and long exhaust pipes, achieved effectively the flow "venturi" from very low until high rpms.

If you run your bike at speed over 7500 rpm (red line) is better to use synthetic lubricants.. 10w-50 or 10w-60.


Boxer Engines
Power 1 Racing 10W/50, New recommend oil (directive from BMW).

Look what Oils recommended for BMW boxers engine.. This directive came in 2010, I proposed for all the BMW boxer..
(I not propose the castor oil, but the viscosity of 10-50 or 10-60 in any racing bike's or car's lubricant).

71493396.png


I suggest the viscosity 10-50 or 10-60 because :

1. Τhe engine is better and faster for cold starts (note that the boxer is air-cooled and operates in the temperature range 40-120 C, - the water cooled engine works at 85-95 C).
2. Achieves greater fuel economy.
3. Protection for engine at high temperatures (cause is air cooled).
4. The oil consumption is very less, withstand more miles, changes minimum at 5.000 miles..
5. There is great variety in the notions racing lubricants at very good prices, almost identical to the simple oils..
 
just been out for a longer run today, a bit chilly here in uk, so didn't push higher than 90mph on country roads, but really noticing the bike is so eager above 80mph, when it used to feel stretched (I thought it was just the extra wind resistance with lower bhp from lack of fairing compared to my previous K100RS/VFR/ZXR etc). So much more enjoyment, bike feels safer with more "in hand" if required. :green gri

Drinu, thanks for the info on the K&N, will order one when needed. :cool:
 
Hello friends. This is a dyno from R1150GS with narrow intakes tubes, free (K/N) air filter and aftermarket de-cat exhaust :
Chip stage 8 :

At the next week i try dynos by largers air intake tubes (RT-RS) for much power after 7.000 rpms.. :beerjug:

1798500_397854843708151_8944252131749400840_n.jpg
 
Power/torque curves

Hi John,

thanks for posting the latest. Is there any chance you might be able to post all the dyno graphs in one place? . . . . . so it's easier for us all to reference and find them. It can be tedious sometimes trawling thru 20+ pages of posts looking for info. You may get less people asking you for info too ;)

Used my 850GS again today, still astonished at the improvement in low rev tractability from 2000rpm, and the lovely surge at 5500 which makes such a difference on faster roads.

Cheers, Sean
 


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