JohnGS1100 Tuning Chip
- Thread starter uncle dick
- Start date
You sould adjust the iddle speed again.
How is the power with stage 5 chip ? I think is like a japanese sport bike 600cc.
This chip is better for your bike, Has correct AFR at iddle and middle revs of rpm and richer AFR (12,5:1) at high rpm, for full power. The consumption will be better. Try it some days please.
I think that i totally found what about the adapting of ECU.
It is happen when the bike has a stock air filter by stage 5 chip..
The stage 5 chip need a K/N or DNA filter to working by correct AFR.
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
John, i don't see how it could be an air filter issue. A more likely cause of your lambda control error is changing values in the Closed Loop region.
Keep in mind that every value has about 1 mS of dead time added for injector turn on and off.
So this means if you were adjusting a value that was 2.5 mS in the fuel table And then added 10% to bring it to 2.75 mS, what you really did was add 0.25 mS to the injector ontime of 1.5mS, which is actually a 17% increase in fuel. That would be very near the 20% lambda control range and could cause the error.
Keep in mind that every value has about 1 mS of dead time added for injector turn on and off.
So this means if you were adjusting a value that was 2.5 mS in the fuel table And then added 10% to bring it to 2.75 mS, what you really did was add 0.25 mS to the injector ontime of 1.5mS, which is actually a 17% increase in fuel. That would be very near the 20% lambda control range and could cause the error.
re air filter issue my 2c worth..... run it without ..... see what happens and report back.... in this case the bike should run slightly leaner ONLY if the air filter is very dirty. at idle speeds i cannot think otherwise unless there are air speed sensors working in conjunction with air pressure and temperature sensors, pls correct me if i am wrong !!!!
There is no problem. I gives no much more richer AFR at close loop. I gives only 2-5% as Roger said. At high revs i gives 5-12%, so the AFR is the best as possible at high, will work better at high temps by more power and final speed.
By K/N filter the ECU will adapt for better results for torque, especially for high rpm..
I was do my test and i found is ok, you will see that at your bike
By K/N filter the ECU will adapt for better results for torque, especially for high rpm..
I was do my test and i found is ok, you will see that at your bike
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
What kind of fuel do riders in the UK have access to? Is it with Ethanol or without? Is there some other oxygenate such as MTBE, what percent? Does anyone know the stoichiometric ratio of the fuel sold?
This is important to know how much fuel that can be added in the Closed Loop regions without worrying about broken Adaptation.
This is important to know how much fuel that can be added in the Closed Loop regions without worrying about broken Adaptation.
Roger,
In the UK we currently have E5 (5%) Ethanol, which will be changing to the EU wide E10 (10%) Ethanol. rated at 95 RON
You can get 98 RON super unleaded, which is usually the premium unleaded, such as Shell VPower.
In some places such as Austria you can get 100 RON straight Unleaded.
I will find the S/R info for you when I get back from my hol's
Neil
In the UK we currently have E5 (5%) Ethanol, which will be changing to the EU wide E10 (10%) Ethanol. rated at 95 RON
You can get 98 RON super unleaded, which is usually the premium unleaded, such as Shell VPower.
In some places such as Austria you can get 100 RON straight Unleaded.
I will find the S/R info for you when I get back from my hol's
Neil
You sould adjust the iddle speed again.
How is the power with stage 5 chip ? I think is like a japanese sport bike 600cc.
This chip is better for your bike, Has correct AFR at iddle and middle revs of rpm and richer AFR (12,5:1) at high rpm, for full power. The consumption will be better. Try it some days please.
Power is amazing. I will try it. I was surprised how high the revs went!
I will take a proper spin over the weekend.
I will ask a few questions on Facebook messenger over the weekend.
Also, Kaister summed it up. My bike feels more modern. Thank god I don't have clutch slip.
Sent by SOB
As i said you, like japanese bikes 600cc. You will see and better consumption too. !!!!!
I made a similar chip to a R1150, and his consumption by speed (100-110) km/h he has 523 Km per one tank (19-20 lit), (78.41 MPG)!!
R1150GS twin, driving by 65 miles/H, he use super 98 octane petrols.
I'm personally surprised too
Do not worry about durability of the engine is very hard, note that now must use full sythetics oils, recommend 10w 60, very strong oil for supersports engine
am amazed at the results...... my fuel consumption decreased substantially and I was testing the bike --- was flogged and ridden normally..... before John's chip i was getting 48mpg (UK) on average ..... now 65.32uk mpg .... i still cannot believe the difference as my gas guzzler is using less fuel than my 500cc scooter and pulls like a tractor from low revs and at high revs its gets me grinning like a cheshire cat ---- highly recommended mod !!! Great work John ... keep the goodies coming our way !!
As i said to Ralpy, if you like drive BMW boxer like a japanese supersport, sould change the oil by 10-60 Racing full synthetic.. Needed always 95+ octane petrols. Enjoy it
My fuel consumption in city traffic is back to 36 mpg with the stage 4. I can't believe your fuel consumption Drinu. Maybe mine just is thirsty.
It's going to be a while before I can test the stage five. Some shithead tried to rob my bike last night. Destroyed the ignition and the steering lock.
On the positive, it had no fuel in it and that's why they didn't get away with it.
John, I'm a little concerned by your oil suggestion. The reason the boxer engine is strong is because it's under stressed? Will riding the bike hard up at the high revs blow up the engine? This type of power has not been tested on these engines before . Has it?
Anyway, my mechanic will take a look at the bike when he's repairing the ignition. Bike needs a tune up I think.
Now, I noticed with the stage 5 chip that the revs still rose when the bike got warm. When he's doing a throttle body sink and setting the idle, should he be setting the idle when hot? I'm happy for the bike to start at 800 rpm and gradually rise as it gets hot but I know it's going to confuse my mechanic who is BMW trained and quite by the book. I would imagine he will be reluctant to put the oil you suggested in my bike...
What does the Ukgser community think of the oil suggestion?
Sent by SOB
It's going to be a while before I can test the stage five. Some shithead tried to rob my bike last night. Destroyed the ignition and the steering lock.
On the positive, it had no fuel in it and that's why they didn't get away with it.
John, I'm a little concerned by your oil suggestion. The reason the boxer engine is strong is because it's under stressed? Will riding the bike hard up at the high revs blow up the engine? This type of power has not been tested on these engines before . Has it?
Anyway, my mechanic will take a look at the bike when he's repairing the ignition. Bike needs a tune up I think.
Now, I noticed with the stage 5 chip that the revs still rose when the bike got warm. When he's doing a throttle body sink and setting the idle, should he be setting the idle when hot? I'm happy for the bike to start at 800 rpm and gradually rise as it gets hot but I know it's going to confuse my mechanic who is BMW trained and quite by the book. I would imagine he will be reluctant to put the oil you suggested in my bike...
What does the Ukgser community think of the oil suggestion?
Sent by SOB
The rising idle sounds dubious - I wouldn't be happy with that situation as something obviously isn't right with the chip / tuning.
With regards to the oil - I dunno - I'd stick with a quality 20/50 in an oilhead. You can't get something for nothing - the oilhead engines reputation for long life and reliability is probably partly due to their under stressed design and power output. If you uprate the power and increase the stresses on the engine and transmission you'll inevitably increase wear and reduce lifespan. Whether this will be an issue depends on what life and maintenance schedule you think is reasonable... Certainly when BMW raced highly tuned airheads and oilheads in the PD, they had usual race bike maintenance - complete tear downs after every event.
For iddle speed you sould adjust the bike, TPS and the SCREWS at thorrtles and the little screws behing the throttles, the chip is tested and is ok.
TPS 0,366 V and the big screws at throttles must be open 2 + 3/4 turns from closed. After all these you can adjust the little screws behing the throttles for fine and better iddle speed.
Also by a synchronization to cylinders, your consumption will be much better.
The oil 10w 60 is recommend for racing driving, but no needed to change, you can keep your stantard oils.
Dont worry about the much power, if you have no pings there is no problem.
http://www.jpcycles.com/1997-bmw-r850r/engine-oil/spectro/10w-60
http://www.gs-forum.eu/r-850-gs-und-r-1100-gs-96/geht-castrol-rs4t-10w60-12050/
http://www.bmw-bike-forum.info/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=38814
SOB. I covered 500kms on 31E worth of fuel @ 1.44/ltr = 21.53ltrs = 23.23kms/ltr = 65.32 (uk)mpg. i keep milage regularly whenever i fill up so I will tell you again after the next fill up. Sry to hear about yr bike, yes a throttle sinc has to be done on a hot engine - i will send you all my settings if you need SOB... mine is a 96 R850R no cat and no lambda. Re synthetic oil ... this is the best oil - i go for 5000km oil changes as we have short distances here and the bike barely reaches working temperature in winter!! John said that if you trash the bike all the time go for synth.....but no extra stresses are in the engine with the chip just a different fuelling and advance of timing. You compression remains the same camshafts are the same etc
Don't touch the set throttle screws, these screws are locked for a reason. Once you have moved them you need specialist equipment to reset them!
Exactly.
A lot of this is straying into dodgy territory. Once you start changing multiple variables at once you can end up in trouble.
if you adjust the tps there is a whole procedure and this is part of it .... unless you know what you are doing dont touch them ! Also you have to adjust one thing at a time like that you will know if it made an improvement or not
Yip... TBH there have been a few deviations in this thread from the simple operations that keep these bikes working fine... Simple and logical will help... A scattergun of changes will definitely not... Keep it simple...
Similar threads
