JohnGS1100 Tuning Chip
- Thread starter uncle dick
- Start date
I understand what the CCP does, it allows external programming of the motronic. The trouble is that in the UK many single spark R1150GS and Twinspark R1150GS come as standard with no CCP fitted. This means that the motronic is capable of reading the memory maps in the Standard chip without the need for the CCP.
What I don't understand is why the motronic cannot read John's memory maps without having a CCP or the corresponding pins connected.
Ian
That exactly thanks Adrian !!
I make remaping on stock maps, so my chip works exactly as the stock Chip.
Need just the stock settings and adjustments. So the CCP must be for R1150 single and twin with (stock) narrow air intakes tubes, Yellow (pins 30, 87). Also works and at red (30,87,87a) but this setup gives more fuel at high revs and it is not better for consumption.
I see many boxer bikes from friends, without CCP, many R850, 1100 and 1150 with the CCP removed from fuse box.
Have done this many engineers, unknowingly believe that without plug the fuel is richer, they know the problem on stock chip that the fuel is very lean.
But.. When fit out the CCP, the ECU works better only for few miles. After these few miles make an adapt and the full after 5.500 rpms is much lean.
That is the mysterious and confused by removed CCP.
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
I understand what the CCP does, it allows external programming of the motronic. The trouble is that in the UK many single spark R1150GS and Twinspark R1150GS come as standard with no CCP fitted. This means that the motronic is capable of reading the memory maps in the Standard chip without the need for the CCP.
What I don't understand is why the motronic cannot read John's memory maps without having a CCP or the corresponding pins connected.
Ian
Ian,
A simple explanation is that No Plug selects Motronic Map 000. This is a valid map for the R1150R/GS. It is standard in Canada too.
The Yellow Plug selects Map 010. Which is for R1150R/GS RON 91.
The Motronic will, even with John's chip, read whatever he has put in the 000 map set, if no coding plug.
spoons
Registered user
I have just clocked 200 miles as the last bar on my RID disappeared. Spec: stock R11GS with cat, lambda, regular air filter, 30-87-87a and John's stage 5 chip. I understand it's roughly 20 litres until reserve so I guess I've done 45mpg on a 50/50 city/motorway tank. I am very happy with that as I was at 30mpg for city riding previously.
When I was setting up the CCP I did a test ride with 30-87a and it felt much punchier so I will try another full tank with 87 disconnected from my current 30-87-87a CCP set-up. I'll report back with mpg again.
I'm now almost as comfortable tinkering with my oilhead as I was with my airhead. Thanks for the wisdom, everyone.
Thanks Roger!
You've cleared up a lot of confussion for me.
John hints, that with his Chip fitted and No CCP on a R1150GS Twinspark (factory Standard) then the bike runs OK initially, but after a few miles, presumably after the maps are all loaded the performance degrades. Well that's how I interpret these paragraphs
So my understanding is:-
If I fit Johns chip and reset motronic to clear maps in memory. Then run bike without the CCP. If it starts to give poor performance, then I would need to reset motronic again and fit yellow CCP or jump pins 30 - 87.
Ian
There's no doubt my 1150 twin spark really flies now but here's a few not so good observations:
1.Twice it's been difficult to start.
2. Riding slowly with a pillion slightly down hill with minimum throttle in 1st and 2nd gear the engine lurched so bad I had to use the clutch to smooth it out. This happened a few times.
3. When cracking the throttle open at around 3k rpm it feels like a turbo lag, then picks up and flies, before it would dig deep into the torque and pull.
1.Twice it's been difficult to start.
2. Riding slowly with a pillion slightly down hill with minimum throttle in 1st and 2nd gear the engine lurched so bad I had to use the clutch to smooth it out. This happened a few times.
3. When cracking the throttle open at around 3k rpm it feels like a turbo lag, then picks up and flies, before it would dig deep into the torque and pull.
And that perhaps show the issue that has been discussed a fair bit on this thread about "adaptation" of the 2.4 motronic over the 2.2... The closed loop lambda bikes have the ability to analyse and adapt somewhat and the open looped non lambda/cat bikes do not...
When I had my 2nd 11 fitted with a Superchip and dynoed back in the early 2k's that is what I was led to believe... The chip was just a method of advancing the ignition and ritchening the map...
My CO pot 11GS now really runs very 1150 like for slow running with no or minimal fuss and no lurching that plagued some of the 2.2 11's... The midrange is good with a bit more response and the mid-top is about the same (even though it "feels" slighty less probably down to the improved midrange...). My bikes is only "seeing" what goes in and not what comes out...
What was interesting for me that after pulling the standard chip on two other 11's, both 96 bikes, I found a different part number on my 99 chip, a bike with noticeable more peak performance... Perhaps BM were messing with their chips as well to try and improve things...
My 2nd 11 with the Superchip was somewhat spoiled by a ride on one of the first 1150's with the much smoother running, and that was one of the major improvements between them... Up until my recent buy and especially the fitting of John's chip, I had only ridden a couple of glitch free 11's out of quite a few... A 9911Rr and a 9911RT... I was almost as if the fact that you were riding a really good one made you want to keep it as they were so hit and miss...
And as another thread has pointed out, the fill/empty fill routine is the only real way to test the MPG as the gauge and light are variable on many of the bikes... And those MPG readings on R12 clocks should be taken with an even bigger pinch of salt... Glad its running OK...
spoons
Registered user
I'm now 15 miles into the red (RID showing no bars, petrol warning light ablaze) and unsure of how far to push it. But unless I really run the tank dry the MPG will be inaccurate. Refill reserve minus 30 miles? Or keep a litre of fuel in my bag and run it dry?
Are there any tell-tale noises to listen out for that indicate 5 miles of fuel left in the tank?
Are there any tell-tale noises to listen out for that indicate 5 miles of fuel left in the tank?
No.
The next noise you'll hear are your own foot steps.
Why not just fill your tank to the brim, ride for X amount of miles, fill it up to the brim again and do some simple maths?
Or are you trying to establish how far the bike will go on a tank?
spoons
Registered user
Ouch. Petrol station pronto!
carry a full jerry can of fuel.
In theory and practice you can brim the tank, use 1/2 of it and then brim it again to get an decent MPG figure... Zero the trip on filling up and then divide the miles at the next fill by the litres to re brim it... 10ish miles per litre average... You are talking of the test to find the total range of the tank... And that is why you would need a jerry can... You are usually talking 40 ish miles "on the light" but this can vary according to how accurate it is and how you ride...
I have been caught out at less and also achieved a few more... But its better to fill up a bit sooner...
NitroMax
Registered user
Wow, that was a fast delivery, thanks John.
I wasn't expecting the chip untill somewhere next week so I didn't bother trying to find an appropriate Torx bit yet ( just checked, haven't got it ). I'll try a mate of mine tomorrow with loads of tools, maybe he's got one.
If not it will not be before next weekend before I can install the chip and CCP
Maybe I'll just drill a hole in my regular Torx if he hasn't got one, so I can work on the bike tomorrow
[edit]
Oke, so drilling a hole in a Torxbit doesn't work, too hard to tap a center and the drill doesn't get grip
Found a hardwareshop that's open tomorrow from 12.00 so I'll fall inside as soon as they open the doors
[edit]
I wasn't expecting the chip untill somewhere next week so I didn't bother trying to find an appropriate Torx bit yet ( just checked, haven't got it ). I'll try a mate of mine tomorrow with loads of tools, maybe he's got one.
If not it will not be before next weekend before I can install the chip and CCP
Maybe I'll just drill a hole in my regular Torx if he hasn't got one, so I can work on the bike tomorrow
[edit]
Oke, so drilling a hole in a Torxbit doesn't work, too hard to tap a center and the drill doesn't get grip
Found a hardwareshop that's open tomorrow from 12.00 so I'll fall inside as soon as they open the doors
[edit]
Wow, that was a fast delivery, thanks John.
I wasn't expecting the chip untill somewhere next week so I didn't bother trying to find an appropriate Torx bit yet ( just checked, haven't got it ). I'll try a mate of mine tomorrow with loads of tools, maybe he's got one.
If not it will not be before next weekend before I can install the chip and CCP
Maybe I'll just drill a hole in my regular Torx if he hasn't got one, so I can work on the bike tomorrow
[edit]
Oke, so drilling a hole in a Torxbit doesn't work, too hard to tap a center and the drill doesn't get grip
Found a hardwareshop that's open tomorrow from 12.00 so I'll fall inside as soon as they open the doors
[edit]
You don't need a security torx bit... A decent set of pliers or in my case a water pump wrench, will give you ample grip on the case screws without hardly a mark... They are only holding the case together, not the whole bike so do not need to be very tight...
cherokee
Registered user
Just ordered one of these for my 02 single spark my bike apparently has had some mapping done at hilltop will the stage 5chip still do its job my bike will run a k&n Piece and Remus end can....?
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