JohnGS1100 Tuning Chip

You don't need a security torx bit... A decent set of pliers or in my case a water pump wrench, will give you ample grip on the case screws without hardly a mark... They are only holding the case together, not the whole bike so do not need to be very tight...

Heads are sticking out just enough for grip ? Might try that, thanks !


In the instructions John sent me per email it says: "Without start the engine, open the key and grip-swich to on."

What is meant by the "grip-switch" ?
 
Right, waterpump wrench takes the bolts out, no problem thanks !!

I'll do a fuelfilterchange at the same time.

Have to go visit my mother now, would rather stay in the shed ;)
 
Heads are sticking out just enough for grip ? Might try that, thanks !


In the instructions John sent me per email it says: "Without start the engine, open the key and grip-swich to on."

What is meant by the "grip-switch" ?

I mean the red switch to on (photo) :)
DSCF5013.jpg
:
 
Yep,already thought you meant the killswitch but thanks for the pic anyway ( wouldn't want to do anything wrong ;) )
 
Well, that was easy enough, I was expecting brainsurgery ( I'm from the carburatorgeneration ; ) Only thing to be carefull about is not getting your skin caught between the two Motronic halves while prying it open;)

Did a testride of a couple of miles ( about 30 km's ) and although it's not a huge difference the bike feels "rounder" ( hard to describe what something feels like ), just that bit crisper and smoother, especiallyn the lower/midrange.

Idel was like it always was, tried the CO-pot adjustment like described smewhere on these pages but didn't nocite any difference ?

I'll check fueleconomy the next couple of weeks.
 
Wait few miles, the ECU loads all maps after 40 miles driving.. After make a test, drive it at all revs of rpm.
Let us know about consumption :beerjug:
 
There's no doubt my 1150 twin spark really flies now but here's a few not so good observations:

1.Twice it's been difficult to start.

2. Riding slowly with a pillion slightly down hill with minimum throttle in 1st and 2nd gear the engine lurched so bad I had to use the clutch to smooth it out. This happened a few times.

3. When cracking the throttle open at around 3k rpm it feels like a turbo lag, then picks up and flies, before it would dig deep into the torque and pull.

While there are other possible causes, here's a good rule of thumb:

1. If you change the fuel map on a bike with an O2 sensor, it will work better at first but head back toward stock over time as the Motronic fights its way back.

(Note: If the fuel map is altered such that the relationship between closed loop cells changes, things end up worse than when you started.)

2. If you change the lambda sensor reference value (LC-2 or AF-XIED), you will get an immediate improvement that will get better over time as the Motronic learns the new AFR goal.

These rules of thumb don't apply to Open Loop fueling, such as the R1100 with No Coding Plug or a 30-87a plug.
 
While there are other possible causes, here's a good rule of thumb:

1. If you change the fuel map on a bike with an O2 sensor, it will work better at first but head back toward stock over time as the Motronic fights its way back.

(Note: If the fuel map is altered such that the relationship between closed loop cells changes, things end up worse than when you started.)

Would the same apply to a remapped ECU such as done by Hilltop etc?

Just wondered as I don't recall anyone who's had there bike remapped complaining of this.

Is remapping any different to what John does with the chip?

(Not noticed anything negative with my chipped bike yet)
 
Would the same apply to a remapped ECU such as done by Hilltop etc?

Just wondered as I don't recall anyone who's had there bike remapped complaining of this.

Is remapping any different to what John does with the chip?

(Not noticed anything negative with my chipped bike yet)

My bike has at some point been mapped by hills,this is my second 1150 and this doesnt feel any different to my last,iv ordered one of Johns chips,but no one seems to be able to tell me if plugging my new chip will upset anything thats been done by hills years ago,when i had my 990 KTMs i had the ecu flashed when i had Akros fitted,so how does that differ from hills? would i be right to assume removing the original chip and replacing with my updated version would be fine,and any work previous would be involved on the binned chip??? if that makes any sense to anyone...lol
 
would i be right to assume removing the original chip and replacing with my updated version would be fine,and any work previous would be involved on the binned chip??? if that makes any sense to anyone...lol

That's what I expect but wasn't sure, hence my question
 
Would the same apply to a remapped ECU such as done by Hilltop etc?

Just wondered as I don't recall anyone who's had there bike remapped complaining of this.

Is remapping any different to what John does with the chip?

(Not noticed anything negative with my chipped bike yet)

The rules of thumb apply to Motronic and BMSK generally for fueling, if the O2 sensor is left connected and functional. Some exceptions:

1) Spark Advance changes do not get adapted out.
2) Fuel changes above 30% throttle don't get adapted out, as long as there aren't changes below 30% (that complicates the answer). Note though that most riding and most driveability issues seem to occur at less than 30% throttle.

The above issue is known by Power Commander and Techlusion, both of whom disconnect the O2 sensors.

The issue is that within the Closed Loop area the Motronic and BMSK always work to achieve the AFR of the O2 sensor, which in the case of Narrowband is 14.7:1. Any deviations learned in the Closed Loop area get applied as Long Term Trims to the Open Loop area.

Can anyone answer what exactly Hilltop changes on the Motronic chip?
 
Roger is that a....no fit the new chip all will be rosy...or no fitting the chip will cause mayhem and confusion my bike will hate me and sulk....:)
 
The above issue is known by Power Commander and Techlusion, both of whom disconnect the O2 sensors.

So, if Johns chip is good on day 1 and then gets 'corrected' what effect would disconnecting the O2 sensor after a motronic reset have?
 
Ian,
A simple explanation is that No Plug selects Motronic Map 000. This is a valid map for the R1150R/GS. It is standard in Canada too.

The Yellow Plug selects Map 010. Which is for R1150R/GS RON 91.

The Motronic will, even with John's chip, read whatever he has put in the 000 map set, if no coding plug.

Roger, what did you mean under Map 000 and Map 010?
As John, I found all maps in R1200C stock bin. For some of them I known what they are, for the most part I do not.
There are only 8 fuel and 8 spark advance maps. Precisely, in R1200c bin there are 8=4x2 and 8=4x2 maps, the pairs are identical.

Roger, I have problems with PM here, please write to me ([email protected]) to discuss maps, LC2 and adaptation matters.
 
Can I ask a question before I try to reread the last twenty pages of debate. Partly prompted by the post above I've a similar question:
If I fit John's chip to my 1150 gs with lambda sensor, I know it will initially work great but roger you are suggesting the motronic will erode the changes over time back to stock? You also mention resetting the motronic. If you reset the motronic, will johns chip revert back to the way it was when you first put it in? Just wondering because if it did, it's perfect work around? Just trying to understand...
 
Roger, what did you mean under Map 000 and Map 010?
As John, I found all maps in R1200C stock bin. For some of them I known what they are, for the most part I do not.
There are only 8 fuel and 8 spark advance maps. Precisely, in R1200c bin there are 8=4x2 and 8=4x2 maps, the pairs are identical.

Roger, I have problems with PM here, please write to me ([email protected]) to discuss maps, LC2 and adaptation matters.

Map 000 is no plug, and map 010 is a Yellow plug. Email sent to you.

Can I ask a question before I try to reread the last twenty pages of debate. Partly prompted by the post above I've a similar question:
If I fit John's chip to my 1150 gs with lambda sensor, I know it will initially work great but roger you are suggesting the motronic will erode the changes over time back to stock? You also mention resetting the motronic. If you reset the motronic, will johns chip revert back to the way it was when you first put it in? Just wondering because if it did, it's perfect work around? Just trying to understand...

It's not a simple answer but yes, the Motronic will drive fueling back to lambda=1 per my comments a couple posts back.

I don't see resetting as a work around anymore than removing the O2 sensor on a R1150. Each approach will have the effect of keeping fueling where the chip sets it but at the expense of not letting the Motronic do its job.
 
Can I ask a question before I try to reread the last twenty pages of debate. Partly prompted by the post above I've a similar question:
If I fit John's chip to my 1150 gs with lambda sensor, I know it will initially work great but roger you are suggesting the motronic will erode the changes over time back to stock? You also mention resetting the motronic. If you reset the motronic, will johns chip revert back to the way it was when you first put it in? Just wondering because if it did, it's perfect work around? Just trying to understand...

Hows yours performing now with the chip.way back in this thread you were super happy with the difference it made to the bike,is this still the case,my 1150 single spark is about to have K&N remus and chip,i already have the Y piece,so id be interested to know how things are with yours a few months down the line......
 
Hows yours performing now with the chip.way back in this thread you were super happy with the difference it made to the bike,is this still the case,my 1150 single spark is about to have K&N remus and chip,i already have the Y piece,so id be interested to know how things are with yours a few months down the line......

Cherokee, The mapping work done by hilltop will modify the settings of the BMW OEM onboard chip. When you insert John's chip you will be adding a completely new set of data as you are replacing that same chip.

The hilltop mapping should (i think) stay on the bmw OEM chip so you can always change back.

I think this is the answer you were looking for?
 
Cherokee, The mapping work done by hilltop will modify the settings of the BMW OEM onboard chip. When you insert John's chip you will be adding a completely new set of data as you are replacing that same chip.

The hilltop mapping should (i think) stay on the bmw OEM chip so you can always change back.

I think this is the answer you were looking for?

Thanks Buddy thats what i was trying to find out,i posted on the other thread ref your problem with a bad chip,i was interested to know if you just found the chip dodgy in your bike or if it was just a bad one and if now your bike was running good with it...:beerjug:
 


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