daverimm19
Registered user
Ok great. Thanks John
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JohnGS1100 Tuning Chip
- Thread starter uncle dick
- Start date
daverimm19
Registered user
Stage 6 fitted had a quick blast much the same as stage 5 chip maybe a little more go higher in the rev range. Overall really happy with johns chip
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
chip
Chip fitted... no problems apart from quick disconnect decided to become a "quick-break"....
so new metal one fitted, and bike seems to run better....
Not had a chance to give it a proper test yet, but Im off to europe on monday, with 2 other r1150gsa's.....
so will see how mine goes with the new chip against my mates' bikes.
Thanks John.
Ride safe y'all
Bubb
Chip fitted... no problems apart from quick disconnect decided to become a "quick-break"....
so new metal one fitted, and bike seems to run better....
Not had a chance to give it a proper test yet, but Im off to europe on monday, with 2 other r1150gsa's.....
so will see how mine goes with the new chip against my mates' bikes.
Thanks John.
Ride safe y'all
Bubb
Wow.
Thanks Bupp, we are waiding about results (comparatively) withe the 2 others R1150. We need know about performance, final speed, torque and consumptions please.
Thanks Bupp, we are waiding about results (comparatively) withe the 2 others R1150. We need know about performance, final speed, torque and consumptions please.
A problem with the chip
I've tweaked the CO2 pot and a problem has become apparent, it's just way too much fun, find my mpg dropping as I'm twisting the throttle too much, seem to travelling every where far too fast
First fuel bar usually drops at 52-54 miles, today at 46, think I'm having far too much fun up and down Cheddar Gorge.
The surging has gone too
Thank you John
I've tweaked the CO2 pot and a problem has become apparent, it's just way too much fun, find my mpg dropping as I'm twisting the throttle too much, seem to travelling every where far too fast
First fuel bar usually drops at 52-54 miles, today at 46, think I'm having far too much fun up and down Cheddar Gorge.
The surging has gone too
Thank you John
NitroMax
Registered user
Same here, the fun is in pulling full throttle from low revs. Took me some time to realise that's why my economy didn't go down as advertised 
daverimm19
Registered user
Think everyone the same. Bike so much more fun. I love opening it up. Trouble is its made me want more. Looking at RT cams now 
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
NitroMax
Registered user
Wow, the bike is finally going down in fuelconsumption. Got me over 30 km further on a full tank the last 3 times 
Better combustion, cause faster timing advance, works fine by 95+ octane petrols !!
sean-gs
Registered user
SURGING
After many months of fiddling around and trying different chips, I finally found a solution to avoid the rough running and surging at below 2000 rpm, after a recommendation from Jeremy, leaving the STG4v2 John chip in the bike, I took it to Conquest Motorcycles near Verwood, they had the bike for a couple of hours and the problem has gone away. Sometimes you just need a little help. If you're nearby and have been having the same issues, might be worth a try. Many on the GS service day in The New Forest earlier this year said that's just how they run, but not so it seems.
Details below, talk to Howard.
Conquest Motorcycles
1 Victory Close
Three Legged Cross
Wimborne
Dorset
BH21 6SX
Phone:
01202 820009
After many months of fiddling around and trying different chips, I finally found a solution to avoid the rough running and surging at below 2000 rpm, after a recommendation from Jeremy, leaving the STG4v2 John chip in the bike, I took it to Conquest Motorcycles near Verwood, they had the bike for a couple of hours and the problem has gone away. Sometimes you just need a little help. If you're nearby and have been having the same issues, might be worth a try. Many on the GS service day in The New Forest earlier this year said that's just how they run, but not so it seems.
Details below, talk to Howard.
Conquest Motorcycles
1 Victory Close
Three Legged Cross
Wimborne
Dorset
BH21 6SX
Phone:
01202 820009
dubster
Registered user
SURGING
After many months of fiddling around and trying different chips, I finally found a solution to avoid the rough running and surging at below 2000 rpm, after a recommendation from Jeremy, leaving the STG4v2 John chip in the bike, I took it to Conquest Motorcycles near Verwood, they had the bike for a couple of hours and the problem has gone away. Sometimes you just need a little help. If you're nearby and have been having the same issues, might be worth a try. Many on the GS service day in The New Forest earlier this year said that's just how they run, but not so it seems.
Details below, talk to Howard.
Conquest Motorcycles
1 Victory Close
Three Legged Cross
Wimborne
Dorset
BH21 6SX
Phone:
01202 820009
So what's the solution?
I suggest the solution 2+3/4 (big screws of throttles from ful turns) and TPS 0,366 Volts.
These adjustments by the mod chip will solution all surge problem at low revs of rpms. I tested many times to all BMW boxers.
But all these works by the stock CCP at fuse box depend of each BMW boxer model.
CCP : https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...154018.-2207520000.1435927417.&type=3&theater
TPS : http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/tps3.1.pdf
Also for R1100GS WITH CO-POT and without lambda sensor i suggest this adjust :
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...154018.-2207520000.1435927417.&type=3&theater
Here is a link for buying the stage 6 chip.
I still trying for low cost. The improvement is huge, it is worth !!
The stage 6 has improvement air injection (sensor) maps and works like a booster plug in to air tubes. Also gives exact variable faster timing advance for 95-98-100 octane petrols and little more richer injection fuel depend of revs of rpms (14,1:1 at low and middle, 13,2-12,8:1 at high revs).
And at the final, has 2 set of maps depend of a jumper at socket of CCP. When connect the pins 86 at ground (87) the bike can burns low octane petrol.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271886937757?item=271886937757&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PERFORM...-R-RS-S-/111707081144?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PERFORM...T-GT-RS-/121691646645?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
Here are some feedback from users who bougth the chip.
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=johngs-1100
I m really happy for my 4 years hard work and I am indebted to the forum and to all friends.
I can offer for 30 GBP (include shipping) to all UKGser users (only), needed only a pm.
Thanks UKGSER forum.
https://www.facebook.com/JohnGS1100
These adjustments by the mod chip will solution all surge problem at low revs of rpms. I tested many times to all BMW boxers.
But all these works by the stock CCP at fuse box depend of each BMW boxer model.
CCP : https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...154018.-2207520000.1435927417.&type=3&theater
TPS : http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/tps3.1.pdf
Also for R1100GS WITH CO-POT and without lambda sensor i suggest this adjust :
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...154018.-2207520000.1435927417.&type=3&theater
Here is a link for buying the stage 6 chip.
I still trying for low cost. The improvement is huge, it is worth !!
The stage 6 has improvement air injection (sensor) maps and works like a booster plug in to air tubes. Also gives exact variable faster timing advance for 95-98-100 octane petrols and little more richer injection fuel depend of revs of rpms (14,1:1 at low and middle, 13,2-12,8:1 at high revs).
And at the final, has 2 set of maps depend of a jumper at socket of CCP. When connect the pins 86 at ground (87) the bike can burns low octane petrol.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271886937757?item=271886937757&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PERFORM...-R-RS-S-/111707081144?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PERFORM...T-GT-RS-/121691646645?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
Here are some feedback from users who bougth the chip.
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=johngs-1100
I m really happy for my 4 years hard work and I am indebted to the forum and to all friends.
I can offer for 30 GBP (include shipping) to all UKGser users (only), needed only a pm.
Thanks UKGSER forum.
https://www.facebook.com/JohnGS1100
So what's the solution?
I think the answer is having the bike properly set, as John has written and by someone who knows stuff... I know nothing
I suggest the solution 2+3/4 (big screws of throttles from ful turns) and TPS 0,366 Volts.
These adjustments by the mod chip will solution all surge problem at low revs of rpms. I tested many times to all BMW boxers.
But all these works by the stock CCP at fuse box depend of each BMW boxer model.
CCP : https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...154018.-2207520000.1435927417.&type=3&theater
TPS : http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/tps3.1.pdf
Also for R1100GS WITH CO-POT and without lambda sensor i suggest this adjust :
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...154018.-2207520000.1435927417.&type=3&theater
Here is a link for buying the stage 6 chip.
I still trying for low cost. The improvement is huge, it is worth !!
The stage 6 has improvement air injection (sensor) maps and works like a booster plug in to air tubes. Also gives exact variable faster timing advance for 95-98-100 octane petrols and little more richer injection fuel depend of revs of rpms (14,1:1 at low and middle, 13,2-12,8:1 at high revs).
And at the final, has 2 set of maps depend of a jumper at socket of CCP. When connect the pins 86 at ground (87) the bike can burns low octane petrol.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271886937757?item=271886937757&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PERFORM...-R-RS-S-/111707081144?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PERFORM...T-GT-RS-/121691646645?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
Here are some feedback from users who bougth the chip.
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=johngs-1100
I m really happy for my 4 years hard work and I am indebted to the forum and to all friends.
I can offer for 30 GBP (include shipping) to all UKGser users (only), needed only a pm.
Thanks UKGSER forum.
https://www.facebook.com/JohnGS1100
That's a cracking deal John. I've just returned from a trip to Belgium and my 1100 was superb.
sean-gs
Registered user
The solution from my perspective was to give the bike to an expert in fixing this kind of bike. (I'm a reasonably competent technician, but had run out of things to try)
Howard and his guys simply went through the bike methodically, tweaked checked and sorted everything from valve clearances to throttle butterflies, and now it runs perfectly, well perfectly for an 1100GS, which in my book was well worth the labour charge.
A lot of the stuff being recommended by John can be complicated for a novice, getting easier with experience, so when you're learning "on the fly" you have to make a decision how long you want to spend working on the bike to avoid paying someone to do it for you in a fraction of the time. I recommended the boys at Conquest because after sussing out they actually understand the 1100 boxer engine, by committee during a visit, they earned the right to work on it.
My Stg4v2 chip has performed impeccably in the last 400 miles from Dorset to Reims in France. Plenty of get up and go for passing and getting (above 5000rpm) out of thick traffic on motorways, then good low down torque from 1500, with good economy cruising 65-75mph. I'm seeing around 46-50mpg currently.
Howard and his guys simply went through the bike methodically, tweaked checked and sorted everything from valve clearances to throttle butterflies, and now it runs perfectly, well perfectly for an 1100GS, which in my book was well worth the labour charge.
A lot of the stuff being recommended by John can be complicated for a novice, getting easier with experience, so when you're learning "on the fly" you have to make a decision how long you want to spend working on the bike to avoid paying someone to do it for you in a fraction of the time. I recommended the boys at Conquest because after sussing out they actually understand the 1100 boxer engine, by committee during a visit, they earned the right to work on it.
My Stg4v2 chip has performed impeccably in the last 400 miles from Dorset to Reims in France. Plenty of get up and go for passing and getting (above 5000rpm) out of thick traffic on motorways, then good low down torque from 1500, with good economy cruising 65-75mph. I'm seeing around 46-50mpg currently.
Hope help this manual : https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7b6GlMSZji5bXJ0cjFUclNjaVU/view?usp=sharing
..from the manual :
5. With "Zero = Zero" set (zero throttle plate opening and zero voltage), turn the
left throttle body stop screw clockwise (CW) until the voltage starts to rise.
Continue turning until you reach .370 - .400 volts, the voltage the BMW analyzer
looks for the TPS at idle to cause a digital signal to "flop" or change symbology.
Lock down the stop screw with the jam nut if so equipped (early units are an
interference fit). Blip the throttle several times to check accuracy and repeatability
of the voltage to be within .370 - .400 volts. Readjust the stopscrew (not TPS
Allen screws!) if needed. Following this, reset the left throttle cable free play to
.5mm. Now you are forever done with the TPS adjustment.6. Connect the mercury or electronic manometer to both throttle bodies. Prior to
starting the engine, use a common screwdriver to lightly close both rear-facing
brass air bypass screws on the throttle bodies, then open them to:
R1100 RS/RT: 1 1/2 turns from closed (I suggest by stage 4-6 chip 2+1/2)
R1100 GS/R: 2 1/4 turns from closed (I suggest by stage 4-6 chip 2+1/2)
R850R: 2 1/4 turns from closed (I suggest by stage 4-6 chip 2+3/4)
R1150GS: 2 + 1/4 ... (i suggest too 2 +3/4)
Start and warm up the engine to get 5 bars on the RID oil temperature if so
equipped. Idle will be rough due to the need to synchronize left to right throttle
bodies. Use a big rear-facing fan from the front of the bike to control cooling, if
required.
7. After warm up, LEAVE THE LEFT STOP SCREW ALONE! (The one used to
set .370- .400 volts). Adjust the right throttle body stop screw to get perfectly
equal mercury in both columns or electronic indication.
8. Adjust the right throttle body cable for equal mercury readings at just off idle,
around 1500 RPM. Use the throttle to increase RPM, not the "choke" start lever
when synching.
9. Finally, adjust both brass bypass screws individually or together in conjunction
with the manometer to yield a proper idle speed of 1000-1100 rpm and equal
mercury or vacuum readings. Closing the bypass screws will decrease RPM;
converse for opening them. On rare occasions where proper idle speed cannot
be set with the bypass screws, return to step 5 and incrementally increase or
decrease the stop screw voltage from the .370 - .400 setting then repeat
subsequent steps. Raising the stop screw voltage will increase idle RPM and
decreasing it will lower idle RPM.
10. Inspect your work and test ride, perhaps re-performing synch using ONLY the
bypass screws and right throttle cable to "fine tune."
.
.
.
I suggest after each adjustment of the left bypass screws (cause the TPS moved), close the ignition (stop engine), re-open ignition again, adjust again the TPS at 0,366V and start the engine again. The stop - restart engine needed because the ECU reads again the new settings and sets the idle speed at new rpms.
That is the most secret for adjustments of old BMW boxer engines.
5. With "Zero = Zero" set (zero throttle plate opening and zero voltage), turn the
left throttle body stop screw clockwise (CW) until the voltage starts to rise.
Continue turning until you reach .370 - .400 volts, the voltage the BMW analyzer
looks for the TPS at idle to cause a digital signal to "flop" or change symbology.
Lock down the stop screw with the jam nut if so equipped (early units are an
interference fit). Blip the throttle several times to check accuracy and repeatability
of the voltage to be within .370 - .400 volts. Readjust the stopscrew (not TPS
Allen screws!) if needed. Following this, reset the left throttle cable free play to
.5mm. Now you are forever done with the TPS adjustment.6. Connect the mercury or electronic manometer to both throttle bodies. Prior to
starting the engine, use a common screwdriver to lightly close both rear-facing
brass air bypass screws on the throttle bodies, then open them to:
R1100 RS/RT: 1 1/2 turns from closed (I suggest by stage 4-6 chip 2+1/2)
R1100 GS/R: 2 1/4 turns from closed (I suggest by stage 4-6 chip 2+1/2)
R850R: 2 1/4 turns from closed (I suggest by stage 4-6 chip 2+3/4)
R1150GS: 2 + 1/4 ... (i suggest too 2 +3/4)
Start and warm up the engine to get 5 bars on the RID oil temperature if so
equipped. Idle will be rough due to the need to synchronize left to right throttle
bodies. Use a big rear-facing fan from the front of the bike to control cooling, if
required.
7. After warm up, LEAVE THE LEFT STOP SCREW ALONE! (The one used to
set .370- .400 volts). Adjust the right throttle body stop screw to get perfectly
equal mercury in both columns or electronic indication.
8. Adjust the right throttle body cable for equal mercury readings at just off idle,
around 1500 RPM. Use the throttle to increase RPM, not the "choke" start lever
when synching.
9. Finally, adjust both brass bypass screws individually or together in conjunction
with the manometer to yield a proper idle speed of 1000-1100 rpm and equal
mercury or vacuum readings. Closing the bypass screws will decrease RPM;
converse for opening them. On rare occasions where proper idle speed cannot
be set with the bypass screws, return to step 5 and incrementally increase or
decrease the stop screw voltage from the .370 - .400 setting then repeat
subsequent steps. Raising the stop screw voltage will increase idle RPM and
decreasing it will lower idle RPM.
10. Inspect your work and test ride, perhaps re-performing synch using ONLY the
bypass screws and right throttle cable to "fine tune."
.
.
.
I suggest after each adjustment of the left bypass screws (cause the TPS moved), close the ignition (stop engine), re-open ignition again, adjust again the TPS at 0,366V and start the engine again. The stop - restart engine needed because the ECU reads again the new settings and sets the idle speed at new rpms.
That is the most secret for adjustments of old BMW boxer engines.
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
Hi John, The manual you quote above isn't a BMW official manual but something produced by serious riders just like us. Although it was well regarded for a decade, it has two major errors: the zero=zero procedure, which is incorrect; and the TPS voltage setting, which is slightly off. Although the procedures don't break things, they do result in a misalignment. (I plan to contact the Internet BMW Riders and point out the errors.)
Zero mV (or 10 mV) is the wrong starting voltage. Further, if the throttle bodies still have blue paint on the throttle stop screws, it is better to leave them alone. If you must reset the throttle stop screws--for examples because someone already messed with them or because a throttle stop screw fell out--the correct starting voltage is 250 mV. The correct setting voltage for the TPS is 340 mV (not 366, 370 or 380). These settings can be confirmed three ways: from the Bosch TPS specifications, from GS-911 report on the Motronic MA 2.4 or by the diagnostic pin output on the Motronic MA 2.2. (Note: due to slightly worn TB shafts on most bikes it is better to set the TPS voltage at idle so that intake vacuum is fully closing the TB.
Here is a link to research and some results: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24838142#post24838142.
The advice to only adjust the Right Hand TB for off-idle sync can also result in a too-tight right-hand cable at the TB on the R1150. Soon I will publish the official BMW procedure for TB sync (which is hard to find and harder to understand), in addition to the link above.
How is your LC-1 installation progressing? You've had it for a couple months now. Do you need any help?
Zero mV (or 10 mV) is the wrong starting voltage. Further, if the throttle bodies still have blue paint on the throttle stop screws, it is better to leave them alone. If you must reset the throttle stop screws--for examples because someone already messed with them or because a throttle stop screw fell out--the correct starting voltage is 250 mV. The correct setting voltage for the TPS is 340 mV (not 366, 370 or 380). These settings can be confirmed three ways: from the Bosch TPS specifications, from GS-911 report on the Motronic MA 2.4 or by the diagnostic pin output on the Motronic MA 2.2. (Note: due to slightly worn TB shafts on most bikes it is better to set the TPS voltage at idle so that intake vacuum is fully closing the TB.
Here is a link to research and some results: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24838142#post24838142.
The advice to only adjust the Right Hand TB for off-idle sync can also result in a too-tight right-hand cable at the TB on the R1150. Soon I will publish the official BMW procedure for TB sync (which is hard to find and harder to understand), in addition to the link above.
How is your LC-1 installation progressing? You've had it for a couple months now. Do you need any help?
Massive Lee
Registered user
Hi John
It's Lee from advrider and i-BMW.com... I'd like to order a chip for my twin spark 1150GSA with Y-pipe and 02 sensor in place. I am a bit confused by the octane rating in your advert.
EU 95 octane = US 91 octane
I run US premium, which is 91 octane. So, should I order a stage 1-4 chip? What if I have no choice and one day need to fill up with regular (US 87 octane)... Can I simply use my 3 prong coding plug?
I need more torque and don't care too much about high reving power. It's a GS after all. ;-)
Lee
BTW I just removed my AFXied and the motor runs great. No surging. But would appreciate a bit more oomph in the low end and mid range. ;-)
It's Lee from advrider and i-BMW.com... I'd like to order a chip for my twin spark 1150GSA with Y-pipe and 02 sensor in place. I am a bit confused by the octane rating in your advert.
EU 95 octane = US 91 octane
I run US premium, which is 91 octane. So, should I order a stage 1-4 chip? What if I have no choice and one day need to fill up with regular (US 87 octane)... Can I simply use my 3 prong coding plug?
I need more torque and don't care too much about high reving power. It's a GS after all. ;-)
Lee
BTW I just removed my AFXied and the motor runs great. No surging. But would appreciate a bit more oomph in the low end and mid range. ;-)
Similar threads
