Jordan for the Kerak....

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Riyadh to Jordan 3rd to 10th November 2009:

I have wanted to visit the historical sites in Jordan and Syria for some years and ideally to do it on the bike. After much day-dreaming, finally I organised to spend a week on the road. I decided to limit myself to Jordan, leaving Syria to a future trip.

I planned more or less nothing in advance, but had a rough idea of where I wanted to go and what to see. It all worked out very well and I have made some notes below describing the exploit. It may be of interest and it may encourage a reader to go there – it is an interesting and pleasant country.

It is time to confess that I was relying 100% on Lonely Planet Guide book and on an excellent routable detailed GPS map of Jordan which I had been lucky enough to buy from Dar Moja near Exit 10 / 11 in Riyadh a week before my trip. The Lonely Planet book is a fantastic resource, I can’t imagine how it gets all the info but it is worth every penny. I spent a good bit of time reading it beforehand and it would have been well worthwhile even if I had never gone to Jordan itself.

Note – Hail to Riyadh (600kms) not shown on the map

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Route in Jordan

This was how it went, anticlockwise, starting from East.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Tuesday 3rd Nov: Riyadh to Tabarjal.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sred...14305&authkey=Gv1sRgCK2E7LO9t4i8CQ&feat=email

Left Riyadh at 0400hrs, full moon, about 20 degrees C.

First sign for Jouf via the new road showed 900kms, well it was a target anyhow….

Stopped at SASCO for a break after 150kms, filled petrol, no problems.

On to Burayda, followed the signs and bypassed the main town. Followed the signs for Hail and Jouf.

Burayda to Hail was windy and the road was wet. Very little rain but enough spray to make clean bike into dirty bike. I resisted the urge to clean it, and it blended in well in Jordan.

Noticed the new railway being built beside the road. Will be used for hauling Phosphates from northern mining area to Riyadh and to Jubail and will be a passenger line from Riyadh to Haditha border crossing in future.

Used a full tank of 20 litres for 200kms into the wind, although speed was high too. Worrying as I head for new Hail – Jouf road….

New Hail to Jouf road is 350kms of splendid highway across the Nejd desert. It opened about a year ago and shortened the journey to Jordan considerably, versus using the TransArabiaPipeline road from Hafir-Al-Batin. About 250kms less and much safer too according to reports of the accident risk on the TAP road.

Only one snag – there is no petrol station, shop or any other business along the road! For me this was a worry, because the bike tank holds 22 litres max, and at a steady speed, 120kph, the consumption is 15km/l. Max range 330kms. This is assuming not too much head wind – a big factor when the panniers are on the bike. To play safe, I carried 2 *4L oil bottles filled with petrol.

I had located the last and first petrol stations on Google Earth and put them in the GPS. Made sure to fill FULL at the last station leaving Hail. Next thing I know I have missed a turn-off due to some rather vague detour signage. Before going too far, I realised my mistake, and stopped to ask a guy working among the road diversions which way to Jouf? Turns out he was Chinese, but spoke enough English to get me to go back to the turnoff and get on my way.

The new road is a very pleasant wide dual carriageway, undulating across the dunes. The sand dunes are a lovely cream coffee colour, with some vegetation. I saw very few camels but still would not like to drive there at night as the road is not fully fenced off. Unlike the 240km ruler-straight road from Harad to Batha border, this road has hills, bends and enough variety of scenery to keep you interested.

Along the road, to the East side, you get to see where the railway is being built. Unlike the road which can follow the lie of the land, the railway has to have fairly level track. This is being achieved by building causeways across the valleys, using imported grey-coloured crushed rock which is quarried and hauled using fleets of trucks. There are various camps to be seen in the distance and near the road along the way. Lots of trucks, dozers, graders all working away. Quite amazing.

Made it to the next gas station with bare minimum left in the tank but without having to use any of the spare fuel. So, it worked out at 340kms and 21 litres, keeping to 120kph.

I saw some railway wagons and an engine on the track but a bit too far from the road to explore and time was pressing.

My target was a town called Tabarjal, about 150kms short of the Jordan border. Two French friends had stopped there when riding their bikes back to France in July and it seemed a good place to rest, ready for an early start.

Reached Tabarjal at about 1500hrs, after 1160kms. Felt ok, but not ok enough to tackle the border formalities which I was sure would be a test of patience and politeness….

Found a hotel (there were two on the main street but this one is on a side street so bike was going to be less obvious. It was a large building with about 10 apartments, not really a hotel. Took one apartment for SR180, it was clean enough and had hot water. Had free wifi so I was able to read the newspaper on my phone. Within a few minutes of arriving, a Saudi man arrived at the door, wanted to know who I was, etc. Security is never far away.

Later, I went out to get some dinner, and a guy sleeping in a dirty landcruiser beside the door wound down the window and said “Where go?” I replied “Go dinner!”. He then said “OK, go!”. More Security.

When I had eaten, one guy appeared at my side, showed me his walkie-talkie in his pocket, said he was a policeman and asked me if I wanted a lift back. I said I would prefer to walk, so he said he would walk with me. We had a chat along the way (my 10 word of Arabic and his rather better English) with his radio squawking away in his pocket. Hmm.

Home to bed and slept until prayer call, which was hard to miss…..

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Wednesday 4th Nov: Tabarjal to Azraq.

Up early and set to leave at 0600hrs. Another Security guy was sleeping in another dirty Landcruiser at the door. No worries about anyone messing with the bike! What was a bit of a surprise was that it was 5 degrees, quite chilly! I was expecting it to be cool in Jordan but so soon!!

Off to the border, and stopped for a coffee and petrol just before the Customs etc. The Bangladeshi guy in the coffee hut asked me where I was from. “Ireland? Dublin? My sister is in Dublin, with brother-in-law and two kids, who are Irish Citizens!” Small world or what!

Saudi Passport and Customs was a breeze, and the Customs guys thought it was hilarious that I had stayed in their home town, the glorious Tabarjal.

I had deliberately not done any preparation for the border other than to have a Saudi exit / re-entry visa, and to extend the Arabian Shield bike insurance cover for Jordan for the week.

To make it short, no problem to get a visit visa, 16JD but payable only in JD cash. I had to walk along to an exchange place, SR540 = 100JD. Simples.

Some argument in Customs who wanted a Triptych for the vehicle. I insisted I was a Saudi resident visiting Jordan as a Tourist and eventually got a temporary import permit for 10JD. Next had to buy 3rd Party Insurance, about 15JD.

Whole process took an hour, no issues but to go on to Syria, it would probably be better to have a Triptych and avoid any discussions / delays.

I had set my eye on visiting some old castles in the Eastern part of Jordan near Azraq which is about 150kms from the border. Wide flat landscape, and I had a feeling of being near the sea although it is 200kms away. It looked as if the tide had just gone out. Short chat with Policeman at a checkpoint who thought I should stick to the 100kph limit. No problem! There were many speed checks on the roads, and I got fuel consumption like never before as I observed the said 100kph limit almost without exception.

Arrived at Azraq, which is the junction of the Amman – Baghdad – Saudi roads. Seems to be the world capital for puncture repairs, endless lines of trucks, and guys in the road waving at them trying to get them to stop. I am not sure what was going on, maybe some diesel buy / sell scam.

I found the Azraq Lodge, and had figured it was closed when I saw the glint off a Landrover in a tent. Turns out this was the entrance and I took a room for the night.
Had a short chat with the Manager, who explained there were three communities in that area, Bedouin (original Arab occupants), Druze (Shia offshoot) and Chechens (migrants fleeing the Russians, either late 19th century or early 20th century).

Some background info here: http://www.kinghussein.gov.jo/people1.html

I was settled into the hotel by lunchtime and then set off to see my castles. There are three in the area, and all covered under one ticket bought for 2JD !

Qasr Azraq, black basalt, famous as a base used by T.E. Laurence.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sred...0545&authkey=Gv1sRgCInygdb2grXatwE&feat=email

Qasr Amra, small hunting lodge with amazing frescoes of semi-nudes, and a bear playing a banjo! Astounding, and to cap it off, there was a Belgian car in the car park containing 5 dogs. No worries about anyone stealing that car.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurence.boland/4JordanNov09QasrAmra?authkey=Gv1sRgCNyHxZiVz5LYYg

Qasr Harrana is wonderful square castle which was a caravanserai or overnight stopping place. Camels and servants downstairs, wealthy gentry on the first floor. Mr. Mubarak gave me a good look around and was a cheerful companion there.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurence.boland/5JordanNov09QasrHarrana?authkey=Gv1sRgCNz97JXP87_MmQE

Back to the hotel and had dinner cooked by a local Chechen family, very simple but pleasant. Slept soundly in the quiet clean air.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Thursday 5th Nov: Azraq to Amman, Madaba, Mt. Nebo, Dead Sea

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurence.boland/6JordanNov09AmmanAndMadaba?authkey=Gv1sRgCIb30NrszJuCzQE

Up early, not as cold as Tabarjal but fresh enough. I headed to Amman with the plan to meet Dai Williams in the afternoon.

Entering Amman from the East is not the prettiest way. Many many trucks / trailers, diesel fumes and lots of men at the roadside presumably looking for jobs for the day. Jordan has had several waves of refugees over the years and it shows.

Having decided that I did not really want to be in Amman, I headed for Madaba where there are famous mosaics and churches. Somehow, I got frustrated at the traffic and general congestion so after a look at the Visitor Centre, I headed onward to Mount Nebo.

The road out of Madaba is pleasant, with large-ish fields tilled ready for planting. There are Olive groves too, all in all a picture of peaceful countryside. Horrible to imagine Olive trees being bulldozed as part of a land-grab in the West Bank.

Mount Nebo gives you a view over “The Promised Land” as Moses saw it before he died. It looks over the Dead Sea and between humidity and haze, there was not that much to see. I could feel the history and some sadness in the place, and there is a tree planted by Pope J-P 6 which was to express his hope for peace.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurence.boland/7JordanNov09MountNebo?authkey=Gv1sRgCKChiNDI-ImZiQE

On to the Dead Sea! Amazing to descend the winding road and to watch the GPS show the elevation versus sea-level go to zero and then into negative figures. The lowest I saw was almost 400M below sea-level. The Dead Sea itself is azure colour, but sorry to say I did not dip a toe in it. There was no handy beach access as far as I could see, all hotels and fenced off coast. Next time!

Along the Dead Sea, I came to a new road which climbs back up towards Madaba. Wonderful winding road climbing steeply through the hills. I came upon the Dead Sea Panoramic Centre, which has a brilliant exhibition showing the pre-history and more recent history of the Dead Sea and it’s environment. Very interesting indeed.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurenc...dPanoramaCentre?authkey=Gv1sRgCLGDhKWwnujT4gE

Back to Amman, and into hellish traffic jams. A small traffic accident at 6th Circle created a complete gridlock which I became stuck in. Eventually, I met up with Dai Williams. Discovered that I was an hour ahead of the local time (still on Saudi time!). I had checked with the Azraq Lodge manager and he told me my watch was right, so we were left wondering if they keep Saudi time in the East of Jordan. Have to check next time.

Dai and I went to look at a supermarket (Cosme?) which was well stocked with a wide range of imported groceries. Juice from Spain etc. Seemed odd to have such expensive goods for sale so near the refugee camps but there is obviously a market for it. Even Lonely Planet comments that there are two Ammans, East is poor, West is very affluent. You can see this clearly there, even if you cannot understand it.
Dai took me to dinner in a place where they sold brown foaming liquid in pint glasses, quite pleasant. I am sure it will catch on. I seemed to sleep very well anyhow.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Friday 6th Nov: Amman, Jerash, Ajlun.

Next morning, up early to see the Roman Amphitheatre! A little too early as it was still locked but I got to see enough of it. What I saw on the way there was the street market, many many men setting up stalls selling second-hand clothes and shoes on the footpaths. It was saddening to see the poverty.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurenc...manAmphitheatre?authkey=Gv1sRgCO6qpMyw7fz-rAE

Decided to head out of Amman and get back to the pleasant countryside and clean air.

Quite a nice spin north out of Amman, and interesting to see the fruit sellers at the road side. Another interesting thing was the places selling what looked like Ficus trees set in pots or in square tins (olive-oil cans). There were places where the whole roadside was covered in these small trees for sale, I am not sure if these are decorative only or have some economic value.

Through Irbid, where the GPS led me up the middle of the town even though there were signs showing a sort of bypass. Did not matter much on Friday morning but in the weekday traffic, I think it would have been a different story.

Next stop was Jerash, the Roman city. I can say this was the highlight of my trip. The Roman ruins are really splendid, and the colour of the stone in the morning sun was wonderful. I had a small breakfast in the café and was able to leave my jacket there while I went about the site. It was pretty warm and the tourists were arriving in busloads so no time to lose!

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurenc...JerashRomanCity?authkey=Gv1sRgCNnKhsunvP266wE

The amphitheatre is famous for it’s acoustics, and as a demonstration, they enact a small tableau where 3 Jordanians play a drum and pipes – it is as clear as a bell all around the seating. Jerash is rated as the finest Roman city outside Italy. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

From Jerash, I headed north towards Ajlun, and called in to a small hotel which I had seen mentioned –“The Olive Branch”. Turned out to be very pleasant, clean and comfortable. Not luxurious at all but adequate. Having “unpacked”, it was time to visit Ajlun Castle. How these enormous structures were built without power, steam or any mechanical aids is beyond me. There were plenty of visitors there, so I took a good look outside and then went for a ramble on a back road through the olive farms. There were people in among the trees harvesting the olives, or sitting down for lunch under the shade. It seemed like a scene that could have been of anytime in the last thousands of years.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurenc...lAndAjlunCastle?authkey=Gv1sRgCPedn8ubwZXl1AE

Back to the hotel where there were two small campervans in the parking area. Inside the hotel, there were two German couples, busy charging their mobiles and laptops and surfin’ on the free wifi. Lively crowd and seemed to be having lots of fun. Soon, we were joined by a busload of Japanese tourists. All elderly, so polite and formal. We had dinner in one dining hall, nothing special but as we say, “Hunger is good sauce”.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Saturday 7th Nov: Umm Qays, Jordan Valley, Baptism Site, Kerak.

Next morning, had breakfast at 6 – coriander on bread dipped in olive oil. Tasty!

Target today was to go to the north-eastern corner of Jordan. This is where Umm Qays is, another Roman City but one which was badly damaged in an earthquake in the 7th century. The ruins are being restored and it is a splendid site to walk around and to absorb. I was given a “tour” of the Museum by the Curator. There are some amazing statues / sculptures there and I was able to pretend not to see the “No Photography” signs.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurenc...sGedaraRomanCity?authkey=Gv1sRgCMSQm-a0zbv5aA

I had left the bike near a stall selling various tourist souvenirs and the stall owner came over for a chat – and a tip for taking care of the bike. He suggested I should go out to the north of the town and see the border. I followed the road, through army checkpoints every 500 meters or so. No problems, they asked for ID and that was it. I felt a sadness looking over a beautiful valley thinking of all the hostility that exists among the peoples in the land. Recently, there was an article in the Arab News describing the water shortage in the areas west of the Jordan valley, and saying that this is one major reason why the Israeli’s are occupying the West Bank – to get water from deep wells drilled there. You could well believe there would be blood spilled over the water resources, because they are minimal and they are critical to survival of the farming which sustains the region.

Following the Jordan River valley southwards, I saw farming everywhere. Cows, crops, greenhouses, water in artificial irrigation canals. A busy place. When I stopped for a bite to eat, I found my water bottle was flattened by the airpressure increase from Umm Qays down to -250m below sea-level.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurenc...ValleyToDeadSea?authkey=Gv1sRgCP3p5fPe_aCIigE

I headed for the Baptism Site where Jesus was baptised by John. Got close but not quite to the right place due to a big fence. More tourist buses so I kept moving.
I wanted to reach Kerak that afternoon so as to visit the famous castle early next morning. I took the road from the Dead Sea back up past Mount Nebo to Madaba, and then south on the Kings Highway. This is a splendid wide road, going up hill and down dale with spectacular switchback climbs and descents. The road narrows through towns and then resumes as a highway – not fun for the buses I am sure.

Near Mujib Dam, I stopped to take a photo and two young lads coming down the hill with a donkey caught my eye. One of the lads asked me for my camera and he took a snap of me – I look like a Yuri Gagarin! Their younger brother appeared with sister (who did not want to be photographed) – all very rural. They set off down the road and I tried to guess where they might be headed but failed.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurenc...MujibDamToKerak?authkey=Gv1sRgCOH5hPLM2-qWhAE

Soon, I reached the town of Kerak. The narrow streets and congestion were mentioned in the Lonely Planet book, but they had a drainage scheme in progress too which meant many deep excavations blocking the narrow congested streets…I got close to the Castle, saw a sign saying “Hotel” and pulled up onto the footpath there and then. The “hotel” was pretty basic but it was in the right place and the traffic in the street was at a standstill. Big buses and small streets are a bad mixture.

After parking the bike in the entrance hallway, I was able to take a walk around to get the feel of the place before sitting down for some food at a pavement café. I was closely watched by a cat while I ate a quite tasty meal. Later walked about and bought some nuts in a nut shop!

The hotel had a shower like a fire-hose and good hot water and this made up for the lack of practically everything else. Oh well, must’nt grumble! Slept well after a few beers in another restaurant, apparently the only one which serves alcoholic beer in town.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Sunday 8th Nov: Kerak Castle, Shobak, Petra area, Wadi Rum.

Up early and had “breakfast” in the “dining room”….

Went up the hill to the castle and was able to walk about as free as you like. Another wonderful experience to savour the atmosphere of a fortified medieval town. How they built it is hard to imagine. Men were men in those days, no doubt about it. The castle is being restored and there were people working at enormous heights on spindly scaffolding, not a hard hat in sight. Scarey.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurenc...tueCastleMuseum?authkey=Gv1sRgCPyvj5TFn7eTpwE
The Castle was built over time and there are different “phases”. It is enormous and complex and it is really an experience to visit such a place and to imagine how it was when it was full of busy people, in normal times and under siege. Full of history!

I had a look in the Museum there too, quite fascinating and a great credit to the people who have contributed to finding and preserving these artefacts.

When I was leaving, the ticket office was open so I paid up my 2JD. I think they could afford to charge a bit more and people would still flock to the place.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurence.boland/16JordanNov09KerakToShoubak?authkey=Gv1sRgCK6byLPJwpLDcA

Heading west back towards the Jordan Valley, I wanted to see Shobak Castle. This is described well in the Lonely Planet (what isn’t?) and it lived up to the description. It is in a remote place, away from the town. I met a guide there who had worked as a teacher in Saudi up until 1993. He told me he had no business because the tour buses all came with their own guides. We had tea and a chat. There were a few people studying the castle, and I asked one who was peering at a rock wall what was going on? She was part of an archaeological study group from Florence who were studying and restoring the castle. What a wonderful way to spend the day!

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurence.boland/17JordanNov09ShoubakCastle?authkey=Gv1sRgCIXT0t-snKLrCg

On south, I could see the landscape changing from relatively soft hills to steep rocky mountains. This was the start of the area around Petra. The scenery is beautiful although hard to photograph because it is so bright in the midday sun. I passed Petra because I think it would need a full day at least to appreciate it and I would like to go there with family for company.

My destination for the last night in Jordan was Bait Ali (Ali’s House) which is a desert camp in Wadi Rum. This is in a lunar landscape with huge red rocks rising abruptly out of the sandy desert floor. Bait Ali has chalets, tents or you can put up your own tent. I took a tent which had two good beds in it, and was a short walk away from the showers and toilets. The scenery at sunset and the starlit sky were worth every one of the 30JD it cost to stay there. Had a simple buffet dinner, and used the wifi internet to read the paper on my phone. Packed carefully ready for next morning when I needed an early start. Went to bed with not a sound to be heard.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Monday 9th Nov: Wadi Rum to Aqaba, Border to Tabuk, Hail.

Up early, and left the camp at 0500hrs. I expected it would take one hour to get to the border in Aqaba, an hour to cross plus an hour ahead in time difference, and it worked out that it was 0800hrs Saudi time when I got through the border.

The ride out of Wadi Rum into Aqaba was very pleasant, fresh air and I could feel the warmth of the sea air compared to the cold of the desert. Aqaba was sleeping as I went through, guided by the trusty GPS. It had a nice feel to it and the border crossing is more or less on the water’s edge.

Border crossings take patience and politeness and there was no problem.

First stop over the border was to fill good old cheap Saudi petrol! I saw that there was a ramp along the sides of the fuel pump island and a car was there with wheels on the ramp to make sure the tank was full to the scut before going into Jordan! You can see the ramp in one photo although the car had gone when I took the snap.

The ride to Tabuk is through scenery equal to Wadi Rum, and it would be a pleasure to camp there, especially in an organised site such as Bait Ali. I took a few snaps at the turn for Duba, and before long, was met by an Almarai sales van on it’s way from Tabuk to Duba. The Almarai van was the first, followed later by a series of competitors’ dairy vans, I am proud to say! (Almarai is the Dairy Company I work for. www.almarai.com )

I arrived at Tabuk, and stopped at the checkpoint, as one does. The Traffic Police were very polite and friendly but still I was a bit worried when they asked me to go into the Captain’s office for tea. Eventually, they explained that they needed to arrange an escort for me and they had called the Security Police to come to the checkpoint. They would then accompany me. I thought this was to be through Tabuk - no big deal. However, it turned out to be for the whole journey back to Riyadh (1300kms!). The process was not any hindrance because the cops followed me and I pushed the speed up without any complaints. I knew the French guys had an escort from Riyadh to the border, and it seems to be the SOP for Westerners. One of our Managers was in Hail last week and had cops escorting him too.

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurenc...AqabaDubaToTabuk?authkey=Gv1sRgCP_B7JTus4fhCA

The journey from Tabuk to Hail was broken up by getting petrol, and in a few cases having to stop and wait for the next Police car to arrive. The scheme was they would drive about 70 kms with me and then a new car would appear on the roadside, in what was presumably his patch. He would take over and so on. At Tayma, they insisted that I go into the Police station for tea and a chat. They asked me if my rucksack (water-bag) was a parachute! They also asked me my age, and found it a bit funny when I told them. Probably thought I was mad, like all foreigners!

The road from Tayma to Hail is one empty place and it was no harm to have the cop car in my mirror. You would be pretty stuck if anything serious went wrong, although there were breakdown trucks along the way.

On the approach to Hail from Shamley, there are wonderful rocky mountains, similar to Wadi Rum but more brown than red in colour. Again, this would be a beautiful place to camp and easy to find a secluded spot in amongst the hills.

I arrived in Hail late afternoon and attracted 3 police cars as an escort. Bit embarrassing as they made sure no one interfered with my passage, as it were. I went to the Sahary Hotel, hoping for a room but it was closed under renovation. Next stop was the Boudl Apartment Hotel, where I checked into a large room for SR135. Free wifi and coffee shop in the lobby. Not bad! Cop guarding the bike outside -no worries!

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Tuesday 10th Nov: Hail, Burayda, Riyadh.

One week after driving northwards Riyadh to Hail, I retraced my route in the opposite direction. I left Hail at 0600hrs, slight delay while the cops got organised but within the time it took for one cup of coffee, we were all set and motoring at a good lick towards Burayda. All the cops were very friendly and helpful, and although it was a bit embarrassing to have flashing blue lights behind me, it was no problem.

The way the scenery changes from Hail to Riyadh is interesting. There are several different bands of desert, agricultural land, hills, rocky mountains and back to desert. Riyadh is quite barren compared to the scene further north.

The cops kept with me up to the outskirts of Riyadh and then I was on my own. I arrived back at Eid around 1300hrs, and it felt good to have completed a great trip to some great places without any problems whatever.

What to do different next time:

1. Clean the camera lens more often. 
2. Have JD currency before arrival at Jordanian visa desk, save inconvenience.
3. Take small laptop (net-book) to write a few notes each evening.
4. Have triptych for vehicle to simplify border crossing.

Things that worked well:

1. Flexible clothes (layers) to be comfortable in cool morning and hotter day.
2. “Camelbak” rucksack for water, easy to keep yourself topped up.
3. Take Fruit and muesli bars for snacks.
4. Spare petrol in 4L plastics. Not used but saved a lot of worry.
5. Planning to get to hotel at next stop by mid-afternoon latest, and to visit whatever feature early next day before moving on again.

Distance covered was 4200kms, of which about 1400kms was in Jordan, and 1400kms each way to and from Riyadh in Saudi Arabia.

For info:

1JD 1 Euro = SR5.4
Petrol 0.525JD per litre for 95*, 0.450JD for 91* (might be slightly out but close).

LB Riyadh 24th Nov 2009

 

[Padge]

Did you get to meet yer waaan Queen Rania?

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Saw some nice pussies, check my other thread...

 

[yamonda1]

Nice story & pics, thanks

 

[Hairnet600]

love all that

 

[rc mad]

Jordans great isn't it, loved it when i was there over christmas, spent christmas day at petra, then on to dahab in egypt and the red sea for new years eve, bit of scuba diving then out to the pub on new years eve

I Went to the ampitheatre in amman last time i was over there for work ,good to see they still use it for putting on shows, did you go to Jabal al-Qal'a while you were there? good views of the city from up there.


Came in overland from syria, now there is a country worth visiting, friendly people and in my book a really safe place to wander around in. If you like roman archtecture you'll love Palmyra.It's a huge site and i spent a full day wandering around there before catching the bus back to damascus. also go see the ampitheatre at bosra and Krak des Chevaliers in the north.

 

[simondippenhall]

Bin Ridin

Glad to hear the trip went well; still sorry I went all the way to Riyadh and then couldn't make a Friday morning ride-out with you!

RCmad...I agree with you re Syria...also fun on a bike as you'll see below!

regards

Simon

 

[davidgibson999]

nice report and photos - not an area I know much about. Cheers!
david

 

[Aidan1150]

Interesting stuff Laurence. Thanks.

 

[Stevie73]

This is cracking! Thanks! Am planning a circle of the med in '11 taking in Syria & Jordan....Great stuff!

 

[Garry H]

Great report
I have just got back from The Lebanon..
Not on the bike though
And it got me thinking about a trip to the area on the bike

Some areas would be a no go though

A few roman roads to ride

Cracking views

From the air

Was it easy to get a bike out there ?
Mind you a ride down through Turkey would be great