Left Throttle body clicking

[Comfy Old Boots]

...since I hit eight bars on the rid. Connected? I'll wear ear plugs but since she over heated she feeling a bit 'tired'.

Should I change the oil filter and oil as well? Long way from service time and noticing the difference since she overheated ( protest run Dublin )

Anything else that should be checked? Thanks.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

In other words, what would you check?

 

[MattW]

Are you sure it's the TB and not the camchain?

You can test if it's the throttle body by pressing your finger against the throttle body quadrant (control wheel the cable operates) while it's ticking over. If it's a worn throttle body, it'll stop ticking. However, it 's usually the right hand throttle body that wears first as the left hand one has extra support from the TPS.

If it is the throttle body, there's not much you can do except live with it or get the throttle body refurbished (you can get 'ticker killers' but they're a bodge). Scriminger does these refurbs (I had both mine done last year).

If it's the camchain, it may be the tensioner - there was a tensioner update to fix rattles. However I'm not sure if this affects 1150's (I assume that's what you've got?) - others may know.

 

[monkeyboy]

Are you sure it's the TB and not the camchain?

You can test if it's the throttle body by pressing your finger against the throttle body quadrant (control wheel the cable operates) while it's ticking over. If it's a worn throttle body, it'll stop ticking. However, it 's usually the right hand throttle body that wears first as the left hand one has extra support from the TPS.

If it is the throttle body, there's not much you can do except live with it or get the throttle body refurbished (you can get 'ticker killers' but they're a bodge). Scriminger does these refurbs (I had both mine done last year).

If it's the camchain, it may be the tensioner - there was a tensioner update to fix rattles. However I'm not sure if this affects 1150's (I assume that's what you've got?) - others may know.

It does effect the 1150s. I replaced my LH tensioner at about 50k. I've just done my throttle bodies too with parts from Cata Dan of this parish though the bike is in several separate pieces at the moment so I've not had a chance to run it with the new throttle body bearings.

The tensioner is a b'stard to change as there is only just enough room to get it out (unless you want to take the front lower swingarm off!)

 

[MarkShelley]

The tensioner is a b'stard to change as there is only just enough room to get it out (unless you want to take the front lower swingarm off!)

It is a bit of a fiddle, but not that bad.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Thanks for replies. Work a bit banannas today and didn't get my daily Ukgser study period!!

It appears to be the cam chain tensioner. The throttle body still clicks when touched as suggested.

Interestingly, I can't hear it until the rid reaches 3 bars. I'll replace it at my earliest convenience. Throttle bodies seem fine.

Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Listen, I'm a bit worried

I'm ordering a new style cam chain tensioner tonight and i'll fit it asap but is it normal when the tensioner needs replacing, for the left to be making a really really loud ticking? I can feel it pulsing like something is knocking?

Not casting aspersions on the last fella to do the service but would it be worth checking the valve adjustments? I just powered up the r850r for the first time in ages and there is a gentle rustle not the horrible knocking sound i get from the r1150gsa. Can the cam chain really make that much noise? I was under the impression from posts in here that the cam chain should stop making noise once the oil has reached it?

I know the oil is supposed to get hot but it seems to get hot VERY quickly. Should I be replacing the oil filter? Just seems weird that the bike gets to eight bars on the rid and now feels tired and makes more noise than it ever did.

shouldn't the noise go away once it's up to temperature?

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Are you sure it's the TB and not the camchain?

You can test if it's the throttle body by pressing your finger against the throttle body quadrant (control wheel the cable operates) while it's ticking over. If it's a worn throttle body, it'll stop ticking. However, it 's usually the right hand throttle body that wears first as the left hand one has extra support from the TPS.

If it is the throttle body, there's not much you can do except live with it or get the throttle body refurbished (you can get 'ticker killers' but they're a bodge). Scriminger does these refurbs (I had both mine done last year).

If it's the camchain, it may be the tensioner - there was a tensioner update to fix rattles. However I'm not sure if this affects 1150's (I assume that's what you've got?) - others may know.

What I'm asking really is it possible it's not the cam chain and not the throttle body?

are these the correct part numbers for upgrading the tensioner?

 

[Jiffy176]

Boots
Did mine last week parts from motor works they looked like the lower one don't forget the fibre washer too around £55 with post. Mine was knocky on start up but is still ticky when running on 5 bars. However new parts have quietened down the start up.
Takes about an hour for a novice mechanic like me. It's a pain but fairly easy just following the guide you got the pic above from.
Feedback from this sight suggests that the engines are fairly cammy when hot due to the nature. But mine was noticeably louder before changing parts. I did mine asa precaution knowing that one day it would need doing anyway

 

[CHANGELING]

20W50 not available where you are ?

Cures most noises.

 

[MattW]

What I'm asking really is it possible it's not the cam chain and not the throttle body?

are these the correct part numbers for upgrading the tensioner?

The parts on the bottom look like the right ones - no idea about the actual part numbers - I just bought my bits from motorworks and fitted them. As others have said, it's a bit of a faff changing the tensioner but not too hard. I had to customise a spanner (stick it in the vice and leather it with a lump hammer to bend it) to allow me to tighten the new tensioner. There's no way to get a torque wrench on the new tensioner if this sort of thing bothers you (it didn't me).

With regards to what's making the noise / why the bike feels tired - it's impossible to say really - it's just guesswork from a few hundred miles away on the internet.

In your position, I'd do the simple things first: change the oil and filter, check / adjust valve clearances and rocker endplay, new plugs etc - basically give it a service. It won't hurt to change the tensioner if yours is the old pattern. If you have or can borrow a tester, a compression check would probably be a good idea too - blowing head gaskets can make some weird noises.

If it's no better after this, then you'll have to dig deeper (or seek professional help).

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

i just placed an order for the new tensioner. I'll go from there and report back. Thanks for the support.

 

[red rocket]

The new tensioners a piece of cake to fit there's a very good photographic tutorial if not here the the Advebture GS site even tells you how to get the old one out with a bent paper clip do a search.
Cheers
R.R.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

The new tensioners a piece of cake to fit there's a very good photographic tutorial if not here the the Advebture GS site even tells you how to get the old one out with a bent paper clip do a search.
Cheers
R.R.

This one!

Been reading Bobbles thread here

Mine sounds EXACTLY like that. Couple of interesting suggestion in that thread. Anyway, I should have the new tensioner fitted by the end of the week.

 

[MattW]

This one!

Been reading Bobbles thread here

Mine sounds EXACTLY like that. Couple of interesting suggestion in that thread. Anyway, I should have the new tensioner fitted by the end of the week.

As Steptoe says on that other thread - could be worth checking the camchain tensioner blade - they're plastic and it isn't unknown for them to break (although pretty rare I think). That said, I'm not sure if you can check them just by removing the rocker cover?... you might be able to peer down the camchain tunnel with a torch but I can't remember (I know you can see them nicely with the head removed).

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pvFC2h6pigewHBP4vTIJ0kOOAeJkWHiivqDz0FeWdvU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YwJQspMQCvY/TqVn9mNDh4I/AAAAAAAAFO8/NuDMRXEq2cE/s800/engine.jpg" height="704" width="711" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pzg4mZAtFGyldQz4hog_e0OOAeJkWHiivqDz0FeWdvU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LJ0SL1KRoyU/TqVn-K3yjbI/AAAAAAAAFPA/5jZAC_4b_vI/s800/camchain.jpg" height="528" width="726" /></a>

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

As Steptoe says on that other thread - could be worth checking the camchain tensioner blade - they're plastic and it isn't unknown for them to break (although pretty rare I think). That said, I'm not sure if you can check them just by removing the rocker cover?... you might be able to peer down the camchain tunnel with a torch but I can't remember (I know you can see them nicely with the head removed).

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pvFC2h6pigewHBP4vTIJ0kOOAeJkWHiivqDz0FeWdvU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YwJQspMQCvY/TqVn9mNDh4I/AAAAAAAAFO8/NuDMRXEq2cE/s800/engine.jpg" height="704" width="711" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pzg4mZAtFGyldQz4hog_e0OOAeJkWHiivqDz0FeWdvU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LJ0SL1KRoyU/TqVn-K3yjbI/AAAAAAAAFPA/5jZAC_4b_vI/s800/camchain.jpg" height="528" width="726" /></a>

Cheers Matt I'm going to change the tensioner. Power it up see what happens. Then I'll check the end float and the valves and see what's going on.

 

[red rocket]

This one!

Been reading Bobbles thread here

Mine sounds EXACTLY like that. Couple of interesting suggestion in that thread. Anyway, I should have the new tensioner fitted by the end of the week.

That's the one once you start it's pretty easy what you need to remove & what's not necessary

Good Luck

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

No replacement part yet...come on Mr Postman!

Took the cover off and checked a few thing. Bit surprised by what I found.

As far as I can see the two chain guide rails are intact Phew! Not in Bobbles situation thank heavens.

Valves WAY off. On the left side the Inlet valves are between .40 - .50 mm and the outlets are the same.

Fine on the other side.

I checked the rocker arm clearance on the left/noisey side, the clearances are somewhere between .010 and .015.
On the right hand side the clearances are between .010 and .015 on the intake rocker and .008 on the exhaust rocker.

I'm assuming this would all add up to a lot of noise and loss of power?

Anyway, if the postman would only deliver my new replacement feeler guages and cam chain tensioner, I'd be able to get going.

Plan on checking in stages tensioner and then do the valves etc and a balance. very surprised at the valves being sooo out on the left. Glad I checked though.

 

[(RIP) Bobble]

No replacement part yet...come on Mr Postman!

Took the cover off and checked a few thing. Bit surprised by what I found.

As far as I can see the two chain guide rails are intact Phew! Not in Bobbles situation thank heavens.

Valves WAY off. On the left side the Inlet valves are between .40 - .50 mm and the outlets are the same.

Fine on the other side.

I checked the rocker arm clearance on the left/noisey side, the clearances are somewhere between .010 and .015.
On the right hand side the clearances are between .010 and .015 on the intake rocker and .008 on the exhaust rocker.

I'm assuming this would all add up to a lot of noise and loss of power?

Anyway, if the postman would only deliver my new replacement feeler guages and cam chain tensioner, I'd be able to get going.

Plan on checking in stages tensioner and then do the valves etc and a balance. very surprised at the valves being sooo out on the left. Glad I checked though.

You should find that just getting everything up to spec will make quite a difference, also balancing the TB's will help with smoothness and throttle response.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

You should find that just getting everything up to spec will make quite a difference, also balancing the TB's will help with smoothness and throttle response.

might help with fuel consumption too.

Very impressed with the work you did on your bike.