Lighting ??

Robbo1961

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I had a bit of a shock the other night riding home from a spin out,
On a road with no street lights it was very poor Infact I could hardly see at all, I thought about maybe changing bulbs or could I fit a different light that won't overload everything :confused:.
 
I had a bit of a shock the other night riding home from a spin out,
On a road with no street lights it was very poor Infact I could hardly see at all, I thought about maybe changing bulbs or could I fit a different light that won't overload everything :confused:.

I thought the standard lights were OK and never felt the need to change anything, compared with an 1150GS anyway....
 
See the light, search Les Wassall on this forum, problem solved!

WWW.HID50.com

Trouble is the 650's are double filament bulbs with no room anywhere for ballast resistors and the like :eek:

Best use my philosophy at times like this .... if it's dark I should be at home, in bed, somebody else's home, somebody else's bed, or in the bar, but not out on the road :nenau

:beerjug:
 
Im doing a few motorway miles in April and it would be handy to be able to crack on a bit, so wondered what the options are.
 
The lights shite fit some spots that come on with the main beam. RidgeDDually from Zenoverland would be my recommendation

Did the same to my HP2 for a big night ride - brilliant and although not that cheap they are good value compared to others even more expensive
 
Try adjusting the height of the headlight. BMW are known to set their headlights low from the factory, so it may never have been adjusted.
 
Just fitted HID to my full beam today to my 2013 GSA - already had dipped and fog lights from Les (they were on the bike when I purchased it) ended up just buying an add on kit from eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170703660819?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT £52 including ballast and bulb - took about an hour and a half to fit. Its really quite simple to do - just cable tie the ballast to the bars under the dash (I already had a metal bracket under there but you really don't need it).

I went with 55w 6000 H7 which pretty much matches my others. I would say its 10x brighter than the crappy old bulb.
 
Had a bit of play with the light on mine since I've had it.

I swapped my old DRZ400S for the XChallenge about 2.5 years back and had an H4 Hi/Lo conversion in the DRZ that was a huge improvement, so I hoiked that out before I sold it on and eventually, after realising the lights on the XC weren't as good as they looked they should be, installed it on the Beemer.

I managed to squeeze the kit in behind the right hand panel, though it was a real tight fit. There were some problems though as a few others on here and ADV Rider have experienced too. The initial "igniting" of the ballast would play havoc with the (already slightly fragile in my opinion) electrics and 8 or 9 times out of 10 would cause the instrument display to power off for a second or two when I turned the key on. Not a massive problem, but it did mean it would reset the clock and wipe any trip meter, and hence fuel status, settings. Not that great. It was nice and bright though.

I put up with it like that for a while and then some water must've got in there and the whole thing began to cycle on and off while I was riding the bike. Fortunately it was daytime, but basically I got home an uninstalled everything!

Currently I have a Philips Blue Vision H4 or whatever they're called in there and it's marginally better than a standard H4.

I also fitted some small LED Cluster lights up front on the mudguard. They're so small that there's just enough room to turn full lock without fouling. They're good and bright but don't "project" much light so are more to help other people see me rather than to help me see if that makes sense.


Last year I took part in the Hard Alpi Tour, a 24 hour 330 mile ride through the Italian Alps with 70% done on trails. The organisers specify that extra lighting is a good idea, so I set about looking in to it all again.

What I ended up with was a pair of 2 small LED Spotlights which I've mounted on to the TT headlight guard bracket and sit either side of the headlight. They're aluminium housings and identical in appearance to the ones sold by adventure-spec and the likes but, at the time I bought them, they were £15 each rather than £100+ each! Looking again now 9 months or so later, you can pick up a pair for under £20 delivered on Ebay!

You can talk all day about beam pattern and the likes and I appreciate that I really do, and I'm sure the Vision-X's etc are better quality, but for my £30 I'm really happy with them. I've got them wired in to come on with Flash/High Beam and also have a separate switch so I can turn them off altogether if I so desire. They made a MASSIVE difference on the pitch black trails of the Italian Alps in the early hours of the morning, I'd have really struggled without them I think.

Can't find any decent close-up pictures, but I can take a snap later if anyone's interested...

GAB_1833.jpg

You can see the small cluster LED's lit up here and the Spots either side of the headlight.
 
Carl,

I have a pair of these fitted in addition to the front of my XC.

http://24x7diy.com/product_info.php/products_id/256

30 W Cree LED's. Simply awesome. The only downside with road riding is when oncoming traffic approaches, and i have to turn the LED's off. It's like day to night at the flick of a switch :blast

I've still got the standard headlight fitted to the bike, and might fit an HID kit if i can be arsed. My home brewed headlight bracket has space in it to accommodate the ballast unit. Just need that job moved to the top of the list.
 
Firstly if sticking with the OEM headlight make sure you've got the best bulb you can get. At the moment that seems to be the Philips xtreme vision. Buy the car on not the motorcycle one. The motorcycle one is coated to change the colour temperature. This robs it of some light. They're about £30 for a pack of two, so you've got a spare too to satisfy French police. If doing this, it's worth checking the voltage that's actually reaching the headlight. The brightness of the bulbs is usually measured at 13.2 the drop in light output if you're not getting that is exponential with the power 3.4. If the voltage at the light drops 5% you lose 17% of the brightness of the bulb. This is why some fit a relay. The higher the voltage the brighter the bulb will be, but the sooner it will burn out.

To save some valuable watts, you could look at a 35w H4 LED. This will give you a whiter, cleaner, crisper light, but the throw isn't going to be as good, and the cut off will be harsher.

There's the HID option, again the reflector isn't designed for it, but all things being equal, a HIDs produce up to 33% more light than halogen bulbs. They last longer too, but are more of a pain to fit. Since these bikes use H4 bulbs the HID will use a servo to flick between hi/lo beam. It's not ideal, but it works.
 


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