Linked brakes?

matchbox

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Maybe a silly question but assumed GS had linked brakes, same as my R1200R. But reading specs. in handbook it is not mentioned. Am I right is assuming they are not?
 
My 2013 WC has linked brakes as standard. I haven't heard that the spec was reduced subsequently.
 
Also, they are linked electronically, not mechanically. And there are no additional bleeders on the ABS unit, so fluid changes and such are not as difficult as with the EVO units.
 
Thanks all. Being electronically linked explains why ther are no extra hydraulic pipes.
 
I don't think so. There is no electrics that will bring on the other brake that I herd of. Jjh
 
While we're on linked brakes

My 1st bike had linked brakes, I was rather confused that I could still turn the rear wheel with the front brake applied (while on the centre stand)
The rear brake was applied by an additional cylinder (next to the reflector) in the front brake calliper which pivoted on a fulcrum (seen to the right of the wheel spindle bolt) when the front brake operated, & activated the rear brake.
09a22bbc0f93c2d5d26fa4d5db759cc2.jpg
no prizes for guessing it's the Honda VFR800 or interceptor in the states. I think the system was dropped on later & current new model.
 
"The brakes are linked by around the ratio of 9:1 front to rear, and you’re a better rider than me if you can really tell the rear brake is being applied while you hammer the front. The system is there more or less as a safety extra for lazy brakers: i.e. those who hammer the front brakes only and don’t touch the rear. "

.
http://www.bikepoint.com.au/content...ers/launch-2014-bmw-r-1200-gs-adventure-42202
 
The brake linking is pretty straightforward (in principle anyway).

When you apply the front brake you get full braking effort to both wheels.

As soon as the ABS sensors detect that either wheel is decelerating at too great a rate the brake pressure is reduced on the effected wheel.

In practice I believe that this means that the rear wheel gets to do a lot more braking than most riders would probably normally apply on an unlinked system (and may account for the high rear brake pad wear).

I think this contributes in no small way to the effectiveness of the GS's fantastic brakes.
 
My 1st bike had linked brakes, I was rather confused that I could still turn the rear wheel with the front brake applied (while on the centre stand)
The rear brake was applied by an additional cylinder (next to the reflector) in the front brake calliper which pivoted on a fulcrum (seen to the right of the wheel spindle bolt) when the front brake operated, & activated the rear brake.
09a22bbc0f93c2d5d26fa4d5db759cc2.jpg
no prizes for guessing it's the Honda VFR800 or interceptor in the states. I think the system was dropped on later & current new model.

Honda Combined Brake System (CBS). I think it's caused even more terror and grey hair over the years than high rear pad wear on liquid-cooled GSs...
When I was in my twenties, I took a Blackbird out for a fast run to Magaliesberg and Hartebeespoort Dam. The bike was fast and very comfy, but I was expecting 'normal' brake action and I managed to scare myself rigid two or three times.

It was what's called a fully-integral system (the operating principle is the same as on the R1200RT and a lot of Moto Guzzis: the front lever and rear lever both operate the front and rear calipers).
But the Honda way of doing it was fatally flawed on a number of levels: in addition to the front brake operating the rear as Dave describes, when the rear master cylinder was actuated, it fed pressure to a separate slave cylinder which in turn operated the left front caliper. So it ended up being a nightmare of complicated plumbing and extra weight.

But it got worse, because the way CBS operates means you can't use the rear brake to 'trim' the bike's attitude in corners. If you do, it applies the front brake as well, forcing the bike up and wide into the turn. If you try to counter that by leaning in harder and applying more power, you risk wheelspin and highsiding.
Also, because you can't vary the ratio by which you apply front and/or rear brakes, you're stuck with the braking ratio given you by Honda, whether you're on a shopping run or brain-out.

The crowning insult was that Hondas of this era didn't have ABS as a safeguard. Which you needed, because the front and/or rear wheels could lock when you least expected them to.

If I ever owned a Blackbird or vintage VFR800, it wouldn't be going on the road until I re-plumbed it so that front lever = front brake and rear lever = rear brake.
 
The old hexheads operate the back brake when front is used but back pedal won't operate the front brake. When the fronts are working reasonably hard (but no means panic braking) it takes very little pedal pressure to kick the rear ABS into action.
My back disc was way beyond shot by 50K miles. The fronts look lightly used suggesting to me the rear brake is under spec or the front-rear link is overly biased towards the rear brake.
 
Also, they are linked electronically, not mechanically. And there are no additional bleeders on the ABS unit, so fluid changes and such are not as difficult as with the EVO units.
They aren’t linked hydraulically. The electrical ABS unit is connected to front and rear and regulates braking pressure in accordance with conditions.
 
It's all explained in the riders manual:
'Engineering details/Brake system with BMW Motorrad Integral ABS'
 
Maybe a silly question but assumed GS had linked brakes, same as my R1200R. But reading specs. in handbook it is not mentioned. Am I right is assuming they are not?
I know you’ve already had a plethora of affirmative responses, but one side note worth mentioning………I’m a fairly unique rider(or not?!) and never use the rear brake on any modern Brembo twin disc setup cause feel it’s totally unnecessary. I do on my Harley though cause it’s like a car brake and you actually need it to stop!! (but that’s a subject for another day/ forum)
Anyway my point is, I discovered a weird gremlin in the GS linked system. If you never actually press the rear pedal (like me) air builds up in the rear brake line over time and it stops working properly. I know this only cause my bike failed it’s MOT last year for an ineffective rear brake. My bike was 4 years old at time. Bleeding easily fixed problem and I’ve started routinely pressing pedal now.
 


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