Wanted Looking for a decent MX5

My wife has that exact model NC 2008. It was 7 years old with only 6800 miles on it when she bought it. It wasn't ever used in winter before she got it and was clean as a whistle underneath. Before it got into that state I dinitroled it including taking all of the arch liners out and doing behind them and all of the box sections. In November december this year tried to talk her into changing it as the rear subframe was getting a bit crusty. The car is 17 years old now with only 39,000 miles. She said she wanted to keep it. So I dropped the rear subframe wire brushed and treated any surface rust with dinitrol RC 900 then hammerited it and then covered the surface in bilt hamber UB then sprayed everything in dinitrol 4942. Five fecken weeks on and off it took me.

That looks like a cover up job. Also the rear deck has been sprayed. It's not unusual as if you leave the PHRT cars out in the frost the composite material is a bit porus and the absorbed water pops the paint off. It can be corrected but requires the parts to be oven baked BEFORE they are painted if not then the pox comes back. FWIW, mechanically they are simple and easy to work on (though changing the oil is a pain in the ass as its behind a chassis member fine if you have the right cup wrench but you can't do it without hot oil down your arm) .


Couple of pics of the arse of the wifes car..for comparison.

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Bad picture but make sure that the two tie straps from the chassis to the sub frame are in decent order. I was able to take them off to drop the subframe to see what lay beneath (nothing horrible) but if the area they bolt onto on the chassis is corroded its a world of pain.

If you can ask to get the rear nearside wheel off and remove the wheel liner. These are made of fibre (WTF) and retain water and the bottom of the arch inner sill and outer sill can rot (you can't see this as its behind the plastic cover you've shown).

There are lots of them about so if in any doubt run away. Also don't think the newer ND's are any better. My sister has had one from new and asked me to Dinitrol it before its first winter. The factory corrosion protection was shite on it as well.

I haven't a clue why my missus likes hers so much. If you do a run with the roof down at motorway speeds FFS wear earplugs as the wind noise will deafen you. They are grand for a quick squirt round the lanes but for distance travel I'd far rather be on the bike. She wants to do another run round Connemara and Kerry in it this summer and I'm seriously looking at putting two old autocom headsets into two pairs of ear defenders and communicating like that.
 
My wife has that exact model NC 2008. It was 7 years old with only 6800 miles on it when she bought it. It wasn't ever used in winter before she got it and was clean as a whistle underneath. Before it got into that state I dinitroled it including taking all of the arch liners out and doing behind them and all of the box sections. In November december this year tried to talk her into changing it as the rear subframe was getting a bit crusty. The car is 17 years old now with only 39,000 miles. She said she wanted to keep it. So I dropped the rear subframe wire brushed and treated any surface rust with dinitrol RC 900 then hammerited it and then covered the surface in bilt hamber UB then sprayed everything in dinitrol 4942. Five fecken weeks on and off it took me.

That looks like a cover up job. Also the rear deck has been sprayed. It's not unusual as if you leave the PHRT cars out in the frost the composite material is a bit porus and the absorbed water pops the paint off. It can be corrected but requires the parts to be oven baked BEFORE they are painted if not then the pox comes back. FWIW, mechanically they are simple and easy to work on (though changing the oil is a pain in the ass as its behind a chassis member fine if you have the right cup wrench but you can't do it without hot oil down your arm) .


Couple of pics of the arse of the wifes car..for comparison.

View attachment 505401

View attachment 505402

View attachment 505403

Bad picture but make sure that the two tie straps from the chassis to the sub frame are in decent order. I was able to take them off to drop the subframe to see what lay beneath (nothing horrible) but if the area they bolt onto on the chassis is corroded its a world of pain.

If you can ask to get the rear nearside wheel off and remove the wheel liner. These are made of fibre (WTF) and retain water and the bottom of the arch inner sill and outer sill can rot (you can't see this as its behind the plastic cover you've shown).

There are lots of them about so if in any
I haven't a clue why my missus likes hers so much. If you do a run with the roof down at motorway speeds FFS wear earplugs as the wind noise will deafen you. They are grand for a quick squirt round the lanes but for distance travel I'd far rather be on the bike. She wants to do another run round Connemara and Kerry in it this summer and I'm seriously looking at putting two old autocom headsets into two pairs of ear defenders and communicating like that.
I found the noise on mine was dreadful initially and also looked at comms headsets, but I put sound deadening adhesive stuff that I got from Amazon inside the boot (a horrible job). The standard sound insulation is like the underside protection, virtually non-existent.
I also changed the tyres from the cheap half worn rubbish that were on there to a make that were far quieter (sorry, can’t remember which) and the problem was solved. We did 2 trips to Greece in it with the hood off most of the way, and were able to talk fairly normally.
In many ways it’s a basic car which can be radically improved upon, but my wife loved it and cried when it was sold on.
 
OK.

We looked at the last few MOTs and there were in fact some references to corrosion. That, plus the rust that was under the underseal... it wasn't looking great.

Sam's 20, it's his first non-banger car, and he had to be the one to make the decision. Visually it's a truly spectacular car - I doubt many are better in terms of bodywork, incredible paint, as-new interior, spotless engine bay.... but Sam concluded that he should walk away. He'd set his heart on it (remember that feeling when you're 20?), so it was tough, but I'm really pleased he made the right decision.

A MASSIVE thank you to everyone who chipped into this thread, guiding us towards what we should be looking for. It would have been very easy, otherwise, to have made a potentially expensive mistake.

Massively appreciated, thank you. (y) (y) (y) (y)
 
Good call. There are loads of them about and some only get taken out in the summertime and are Sorned/Garaged the rest of the time. It took me about seven or eight months to find the one she bought and she's had it 11 years now. A couple of things that haven't been mentioned. The NC 1 cars built up to 2009 ish have a less robust engine than the 2009 on cars. The 2009 on cars had a better crank and conrods and notched bearings (some hard used early units spun bearings) the rev limit was lifted from 7000 to 7500 which is important if the car is to be driven very enthusiastically, tracked or tuned. The engines are sensitive to oil level. This should be kept near the top of the fill mark on the dipstick. All that said the engines are more robust than most if driven normally.
 
I've not followed this thread so I may be repeating what others have said.
We've a 2002 Mk2.5 and I spent many days welding it last year, everything that had surface or signs of rust lead to layers of rust below. The rear of the sills/arches are three layers of steel that rust from the inside, the chassis legs were much the same. I think it was mostly caused by leaking roof drains that went undetected, I've fixed it as her ladyship likes it and unless I bring a yellow tiptronic boxter home it isn't going anywhere, tidy looking car otherwise.
 
This our newly acquired MX5 ND 30 months old .Just in time for lanoguard treatment.On the same week purchased a Peugeot 107 so Mazda need not be used in winter months,
IMG_0037.jpeg
 
Seen this today on Gumtree, looks a cracker.

They all look good from sunny side up ,its what lurks underside .
 
Your correct, not my type of car, but if I was to buy one, it would be up on an inspection ramp to check it completely over before any purchase.
 
If your lad is still set on finding one it'd be worth him joining the MX5 Owner's Club. They are a mine of information and there are often nice, enthusiast owned ones for sale. It's where I found mine...

https://forum.mx5oc.co.uk
I chose to post that one, due to it belonging too a registered MX5 Owners, club member.
Good luck in finding the right car.

What are his thoughts on a Mercedes SLK200? older model with a replaced sub frame is best.
 
Mine has just been in to Paul Roddison to have the suspension replaced, four wheel alignment and corner weighted, ready for the Alps in a weeks time. Just a service to do now and she’s ready to go.IMG_3978.jpeg
 


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