Maintenance priorities

[YYguy]

Hey all, I've searched the threads and not found a thread like this but apologies if this has been covered already.

Two year ago I bought an '02 GS/Adv and it now has just shy of 60K Kms. I'm the third owner and the PO did his own maintenance so I'm not very clear of what if anything has ben done beyond regular maintenance. I want to do some preventive maintenance to get the bike where I can be more sure something won't decide to fail on one of my longer tours this summer. I'm replacing the suspension and tires so I'm not wanting to do more than I need to!

So here's what I've come up with (in addition to the normal oil, plugs, alternator belt, spline lube, etc) and I'd appreciate any feedback on things I should add or defer.

1. Replace cam tensioner if it hasn't already been done.
2. Replace brake lines with SS.
3. Replace throttle cables, including throttle cable repair kit for the bowden box.
4. Replace the oil drain plugs with magnetic ones (I know, probably not worth mentioning here).

Things I've heard mentioned but don't know if I should bother if there's yet no problem:

5. Paralever pivot bearings
6. Replace fork seals and oil.

So, am I missing anything? Thanks in advance/mark

 

[Bendy toy]

Is the suspension showing signs of strain or leaking? If not why replace? That said a professional overhaul with new seals oil and gas will extend the working life.
Fork legs - change the lubricant oil.
Tyres - are they worn unevenly or damaged? If not why waste the usable tread. Take it carefully for the first outing but otherwise just use them. I don't automatically change tyres on a new to me car so use the same principle on bikes.
Rubber brake lines deteriorate but unless the lever feels excessively springy braided hoses are an upgrade rather than maintenance. Braided stainless lines have a very long life.
Suspension bearings - replace if there is any free play. Otherwise strip & grease. Also grease drive shaft splines.
Wheel bearings - replace if there is any free play outside service limits.
Brakes - strip calipers and clean the seal grooves. Do this early and the original seals can usually be re - used. Leave them until a piston is sticking and new seals are needed.
Brake fluid - change it with a thorough flush through. Same with clutch (the 1150 is hydraulic?) Clutch Slave cylinder might be tired replace if gears excessively knotchy.
Chassis parts might be showing signs of weather and salt. Powder coat is my favourite but do what's needed to keep it tidy.

 

[davegs]

Maintenance

The brakes are hydraulic no cables, if it aint broke don't fix it.

 

[YYguy]

The brakes are hydraulic no cables, if it aint broke don't fix it.

Yes, sorry, I meant brake lines.

 

[YYguy]

Is the suspension showing signs of strain or leaking? If not why replace? That said a professional overhaul with new seals oil and gas will extend the working life.
Fork legs - change the lubricant oil.
Tyres - are they worn unevenly or damaged? If not why waste the usable tread. Take it carefully for the first outing but otherwise just use them. I don't automatically change tyres on a new to me car so use the same principle on bikes.
Rubber brake lines deteriorate but unless the lever feels excessively springy braided hoses are an upgrade rather than maintenance.
Suspension bearings replace if there is any free play. Otherwise strip & grease. Also grease drive shaft splines.
Wheel bearings - replace if there is any free play outside service limits.
Brakes - strip calipers and clean the seal grooves. Do this early and the original seals can usually be re - used. Leave them until a piston is sticking and new seals are needed.
Brake fluid - change it with a thorough flush through. Same with clutch (the 1150 is hydraulic?) Clutch Slave cylinder might be tired replace if gears excessively knotchy.
Fork legs

Thanks.
The suspension isn't leaking but feel pretty worn out with one up, let alone 2 up. Even with adjusting preloads. I'm weighing overhaul with replacement.

The tires are at the end of their tread life and definitely need replacement--I was pushing it a bit last season.

 

[Fanum]

Check the headstock wiring loom....from the factory, it came cable tied up a bit too tightly and over the years, this OFTEN causes the wires to become brittle with the movement of the steering, leading to intermittent faults or even wiring failure in that area.

Just free off the cable ties and re-tie a lot looser (or not at all)

Gear change linkage can become dry and crudded up......diss-assemble, clean, lube and re-assemble

Check fuel filler drain hole.......water from the filler neck area should drain freely through one of the pipes that exits behind your right foot, bt that wee hole gets bunged up really easily leading to water in tank.

rear brake micro switch also gets crudded easily and is worth a clean

Check the threads on how to identify final drive bearing looseness....if you're going on a long tour, a FD bearing, seal and O ring are good to carry (and one of the few things that you won't find any cheaper than they are in a BMW dealer)

It's not a twin spark so you don't have to worry about coil packs

That's about it really.....they're pretty indestructible

 

[NeilDD]

Change the alternator belt, and keep the old one as a spare

Brake fluid change as you are doing the brake lines

 

[YYguy]

Check the headstock wiring loom....from the factory, it came cable tied up a bit too tightly and over the years, this OFTEN causes the wires to become brittle with the movement of the steering, leading to intermittent faults or even wiring failure in that area.

Just free off the cable ties and re-tie a lot looser (or not at all)

Gear change linkage can become dry and crudded up......diss-assemble, clean, lube and re-assemble

Check fuel filler drain hole.......water from the filler neck area should drain freely through one of the pipes that exits behind your right foot, bt that wee hole gets bunged up really easily leading to water in tank.

rear brake micro switch also gets crudded easily and is worth a clean

Check the threads on how to identify final drive bearing looseness....if you're going on a long tour, a FD bearing, seal and O ring are good to carry (and one of the few things that you won't find any cheaper than they are in a BMW dealer)

It's not a twin spark so you don't have to worry about coil packs

That's about it really.....they're pretty indestructible

Thanks--this kind of stuff is very helpful. It's my 3rd GSA but my first 1150--I know from experience they're indestructible!!

 

[YYguy]

Change the alternator belt, and keep the old one as a spare

Brake fluid change as you are doing the brake lines

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Fit twin car horns instead of weedy original parp thing. There is a relay already installed so no power prob.

Also, changing the brake lines and the throttle cables is a great idea. No need to change the cable box or the fast-idle cable, just the 3 throttle cables.

Back brake caliper - I remember a rusty leaf-spring thing in there, worth getting a new one. New clips for the brake-pad securing pins too.

Yank the forklegs off, empty out and clean, then refill with lub-oil. Buy new oil-seals, dust seals, rubber things for tops (under yoke), new nuts for tops (they will likely get damaged opening them), new cable tie things for top.

I love my 1150!!

 

[Packer]

My 1150 has done 94,000 miles. Still on it's original throttle cables and no problems whatsoever. I wouldn't worry about them particularly as it's a fiddly aggravating job. Just check where you can see that there is no fraying or damage and if the throttle is silky smooth leave well alone.

If the bike has seen salt roads examine the hydraulic line where it connects to the clutch slave cylinder behind the gearbox. The rigid metal pipe at the termination corrodes and can burst without warning which will cause much grief miles from home.

An odd one that may arise with two up touring is the headlight adjuster, not the lever part which is all plastic but the metal shaft that threads into the headlight carrier. Unused for years it can corrode and seize leaving you unable to adjust the lights for two up and luggage. Mine damaged the plastic thread on the lamp carrier. I cleaned up the metal part, the thread was still pretty good, and heated a metal nut of the correct thread and then forced it into the plastic. It went into the front face as the adjustment pulls against a spring to adjust the light beam angle. Lubricated it with graphite grease and five years later it still works perfectly.

 

[The Grey One]

The brakes are hydraulic no cables, if it aint broke don't fix it.

no just leave the 12 year old rubber hoses in place, after all the worst thing that can happen is it will kill you.

John

 

[Old Codger]

no just leave the 12 year old rubber hoses in place, after all the worst thing that can happen is it will kill you.

John

+1
Had a malfunction on my 1100 hoses and a lucky escape Goodridge Stainless lines are an inexpensive fit
"Feel lucky Punk " Thanks Clint

 

[Lord Snooty]

When you check your valve clearances also check your rocker arm float, there is a thread in the Font of All Wisdom section which Steptoe did.

Also check the balance on your throttle bodies with a vacuum guage.

 

[DrAlf]

Some good advice above.

The standard GS doesn't have a braided clutch line - I believe the ADV does. If you've got a standard GS it's worth changing.

Also worth having a spare hall sensor and starter motor on the shelf ready for when they fail.

Clutch slave cylinder has been mentioned above - I've had a couple fail on 3 x 1150s.

In my experience changing the throttle cables makes the bike feel a lot smoother - you don't realize how bad the old ones are til you change them.

 

[snelly]

no just leave the 12 year old rubber hoses in place, after all the worst thing that can happen is it will kill you.

John

Is there a set service life for the original hoses, or will it just depend on inspecting and on feel.

 

[Old Codger]

Is there a set service life for the original hoses, or will it just depend on inspecting and on feel.

The problem with the OE rubber Hoses is they deteriorate from the inside so not that easy to spot until they balloon and fail. One clue are little black bits of rubber coming out during bleeding.

Not sure when replacement is advised

 

[YYguy]

The problem with the OE rubber Hoses is they deteriorate from the inside so not that easy to spot until they balloon and fail. One clue are little black bits of rubber coming out during bleeding.

Not sure when replacement is advised

Yes. There's a good thread on this with pics at advrider by a guy who replaced the lines on a similar year GS. He hadn't really noticed any difference but as he prepared to replace them he realized if he depressed the rear brake the hose bulged at the end. Once he had it off he cut the hose to have a look and it was almost completely gunked up and blocked by (I imagine) the deteriorating rubber.

 

[YYguy]

Fit twin car horns instead of weedy original parp thing. There is a relay already installed so no power prob.

Also, changing the brake lines and the throttle cables is a great idea. No need to change the cable box or the fast-idle cable, just the 3 throttle cables.

Back brake caliper - I remember a rusty leaf-spring thing in there, worth getting a new one. New clips for the brake-pad securing pins too.

Yank the forklegs off, empty out and clean, then refill with lub-oil. Buy new oil-seals, dust seals, rubber things for tops (under yoke), new nuts for tops (they will likely get damaged opening them), new cable tie things for top.

I love my 1150!!

Thanks! Good idea about the horn, too.

 

[YYguy]

My 1150 has done 94,000 miles. Still on it's original throttle cables and no problems whatsoever. I wouldn't worry about them particularly as it's a fiddly aggravating job. Just check where you can see that there is no fraying or damage and if the throttle is silky smooth leave well alone.

If the bike has seen salt roads examine the hydraulic line where it connects to the clutch slave cylinder behind the gearbox. The rigid metal pipe at the termination corrodes and can burst without warning which will cause much grief miles from home.

An odd one that may arise with two up touring is the headlight adjuster, not the lever part which is all plastic but the metal shaft that threads into the headlight carrier. Unused for years it can corrode and seize leaving you unable to adjust the lights for two up and luggage. Mine damaged the plastic thread on the lamp carrier. I cleaned up the metal part, the thread was still pretty good, and heated a metal nut of the correct thread and then forced it into the plastic. It went into the front face as the adjustment pulls against a spring to adjust the light beam angle. Lubricated it with graphite grease and five years later it still works perfectly.

The clutch slave cylinder was on my have a look list. Here on Gotland we don't use salt but the PO rode year around in Stockholm so it may be an issue. I wouldn't have thought to look at the headlight adjuster so thanks for that tip and repair advice.