YYguy
Registered user
Thanks! Wouldn't have done this otherwise.
Maintenance priorities
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Thanks! Wouldn't have done this otherwise.
YYguy
Registered user
Mine looks to be rubber but it could just be a rubber coating over the braids. I'll have a closer look and/or do a sophisticated, high level google search.
On the clutch line the problem area is at the slave cylinder on the back of the gearbox.
www.probrake.de do the bleeding line, and you can get the main line from handlebars to the slave from either BMW or Probrake in stainless steel.
Mine had started to rot through at the slave cylinder end, (Steptoe on here (GS guru) recommends cutting off the rubber boot at the slave cylinder to see how rotted it is)
Best of luck
Neil
www.probrake.de do the bleeding line, and you can get the main line from handlebars to the slave from either BMW or Probrake in stainless steel.
Mine had started to rot through at the slave cylinder end, (Steptoe on here (GS guru) recommends cutting off the rubber boot at the slave cylinder to see how rotted it is)
Best of luck
Neil
YYguy
Registered user
Great. Thanks for the info.
Welshman
Registered user
Lots of good tips...
Change the engine oil and filter, gear box oil and final drive oil and have a good look at the state of the oil when it comes out before disposing of it, usual suspects are excessive swarf, water ( milky residue ) and check volume - was there enough in there to start with?
Age related issues are the electrical loom - as mentioned before, and check for signs of fraying or being trapped under tank.
Shocks may need rebuilding.
My grips were paper thin when I got mine at 72K, a 15 minute job to replace with new ones from Motorworks - use hairspray £1 a can from
- so easy!
To be honest it's still running at 60k so she's probably going to be fine!
Change the engine oil and filter, gear box oil and final drive oil and have a good look at the state of the oil when it comes out before disposing of it, usual suspects are excessive swarf, water ( milky residue ) and check volume - was there enough in there to start with?
Age related issues are the electrical loom - as mentioned before, and check for signs of fraying or being trapped under tank.
Shocks may need rebuilding.
My grips were paper thin when I got mine at 72K, a 15 minute job to replace with new ones from Motorworks - use hairspray £1 a can from
- so easy!To be honest it's still running at 60k so she's probably going to be fine!
Just noticed that I typed t e s c o but some internet voodoo has made it all corporate and colourful... hmm there must be a witch in my laptop...
kennyc
Registered user
YYguy
Registered user
Holy fucking shit, that's a great fucking video!
That guy cracks me up. I've seen some of his other vids but not this one--thanks!
YYguy
Registered user
Lots of good tips...
Change the engine oil and filter, gear box oil and final drive oil and have a good look at the state of the oil when it comes out before disposing of it, usual suspects are excessive swarf, water ( milky residue ) and check volume - was there enough in there to start with?
Age related issues are the electrical loom - as mentioned before, and check for signs of fraying or being trapped under tank.
Shocks may need rebuilding.
My grips were paper thin when I got mine at 72K, a 15 minute job to replace with new ones from Motorworks - use hairspray £1 a can from
To be honest it's still running at 60k so she's probably going to be fine!
Thanks--I probably wouldn't have thought to check the volume. I think the grips are OK but I'll definitely give them a once over with that in mind.
Check the rubber vacuum take off cap under each throttle body. They perish after a couple of years and let air by causing the bike to run lumpy and uneven.
YYguy
Registered user
Thanks! Great to know.
Do you get a good deal on Ohlins in Sweden?
That's a great tip. I remember spending many a miserable weekend troubleshooting a poorly running 1150 that I eventually traced to a perished throttle body cap.
YYguy
Registered user
Sadly there are no good deals in Sweden. On anything. Ever.
I'm getting HyperPros through EPM in New Jersey. I'm an American ex-pat living here but will be in the US the first part of March. I'm having them sent to my brother and I'll carry them back here. FYI: everything at EPM is 15% off through the end of this month but don't know that it makes sense once you factor in UK shipping and import fees. Klaus Huenecke, the proprietor, has gotten rave reviews over the years and he's been very helpful with me. I've gone around and around on shocks (overhaul the stocks?, buy used aftermarkets?, which brand?, which model?, etc, etc) but finally decided to go with HyperPros based on Tsiklonaut's experience/recommendation after he'd tried both Ohlins and Wilbers. This will be my first suspension upgrade in a lifetime of riding (I"m 53) so it's a bit of an expensive experiment but I figure if I don't see enough of a difference I can sell them at the end of the season and then have the stocks rebuilt.
check the paint thickness where your knees rub.
if there are any signs of wear, replace the tank...you can,t be too careful.
You never know, suddenly your tank could rupture while doing 160 overtaking a moose and you,ll be thrown off and killed.....
ps ...i just ressurected a 1995 t4 van that had been sitting for 2 years...i just put petrol in it and it ran...everything works perfectly.
if there are any signs of wear, replace the tank...you can,t be too careful.
You never know, suddenly your tank could rupture while doing 160 overtaking a moose and you,ll be thrown off and killed.....
ps ...i just ressurected a 1995 t4 van that had been sitting for 2 years...i just put petrol in it and it ran...everything works perfectly.
YYguy
Registered user
check the paint thickness where your knees rub.
if there are any signs of wear, replace the tank...you can,t be too careful.
You never know, suddenly your tank could rupture while doing 160 overtaking a moose and you,ll be thrown off and killed.....
ps ...i just ressurected a 1995 t4 van that had been sitting for 2 years...i just put petrol in it and it ran...everything works perfectly.
The funny thing is, I'm not much of a wrencher nor am I obsessive about maintenance. As far as I can remember I've never even installed a single farkle. I guess the motivation is to get some input on things to look at while I'm doing the big service. Also, before moving here I always had a great dealership close, as well as a good friend who's a retired BMW tech. Now I live on an island with neither (although I do have some friends). The closest BMW shop is about 6 hours away--that includes a 3 1/2 hour ferry ride.
That sounds like paradise. Mail order will be your friend for sure
In the summer you could ride down to the Nederlands and visit Hyper-Pro. No shipping required at all and Dutch prices are likely far cheaper than Swedish. Continue your holiday from there.
YYguy
Registered user
That sounds like paradise. Mail order will be your friend for sure
Thanks--there's some food for thought. It doesn't fit my travel plans for this summer but next summer I was hoping to ride to the IOM TT or Vintage and this would be right on my way to Calais. I'm going to call them today to check Netherlands prices. Of course it would mean another season on pretty tired shocks...
I've heard that Hyper-Pro are very helpful if you turn up at their premises and ask for some setting up advice.
If you have recently fitted their shocks they will spend however long it takes to set them up correctly and they did it for my friend free of charge. They explained the exact number of clicks required and in what direction if he was riding his bike solo, solo with luggage, two up and two up with luggage.
If you have recently fitted their shocks they will spend however long it takes to set them up correctly and they did it for my friend free of charge. They explained the exact number of clicks required and in what direction if he was riding his bike solo, solo with luggage, two up and two up with luggage.
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