Maintenance priorities

[YYguy]

I've heard that Hyper-Pro are very helpful if you turn up at their premises and ask for some setting up advice.

If you have recently fitted their shocks they will spend however long it takes to set them up correctly and they did it for my friend free of charge. They explained the exact number of clicks required and in what direction if he was riding his bike solo, solo with luggage, two up and two up with luggage.

I too have only heard good things about their customer support. I'll soon find out--ordered them yesterday.

 

[YYguy]

So I was about to order a set of SS brake lines and then realized the handlebar risers might make that line a bit snug. The stock length obviously works since that's what's on now but has anyone had the experience of the replacement cable being shorter than optimal when used with bar risers? (I'm probably over- or under-thinking this...)

 

[YYguy]

So I was about to order a set of SS brake lines and then realized the handlebar risers might make that line a bit snug. The stock length obviously works since that's what's on now but has anyone had the experience of the replacement cable being shorter than optimal when used with bar risers? (I'm probably over- or under-thinking this...)

Ignore this. The 02 ADV does have SS lines. I'm in the US right now and trying to do this long distance but had my friend (whose barn the bike is in for the winter) take a look. It might be an issue for others though...

 

[YYguy]

Check the headstock wiring loom....from the factory, it came cable tied up a bit too tightly and over the years, this OFTEN causes the wires to become brittle with the movement of the steering, leading to intermittent faults or even wiring failure in that area.

Just free off the cable ties and re-tie a lot looser (or not at all)

Gear change linkage can become dry and crudded up......diss-assemble, clean, lube and re-assemble

Check fuel filler drain hole.......water from the filler neck area should drain freely through one of the pipes that exits behind your right foot, bt that wee hole gets bunged up really easily leading to water in tank.

rear brake micro switch also gets crudded easily and is worth a clean

Check the threads on how to identify final drive bearing looseness....if you're going on a long tour, a FD bearing, seal and O ring are good to carry (and one of the few things that you won't find any cheaper than they are in a BMW dealer)

It's not a twin spark so you don't have to worry about coil packs

That's about it really.....they're pretty indestructible

Just realized I don't know what this means, exactly. I know, dumb question but I did a google search and am no wiser...

 

[NeilDD]

Hi YYguy
What Fanum means is the pivot bush for the gear change lever becomes stiff and does not return easily.
The lever and bush assembly bolt to the back of the LHS footrest hanger with a M8 bolt (use heat to remove as it will have Loctite on the threads)
Strip it down, clean, and re-grease the pivot assembly.

HTH
Neil

Think FOD

 

[YYguy]

Hi YYguy
What Fanum means is the pivot bush for the gear change lever becomes stiff and does not return easily.
The lever and bush assembly bolt to the back of the LHS footrest hanger with a M8 bolt (use heat to remove as it will have Loctite on the threads)
Strip it down, clean, and re-grease the pivot assembly.

HTH
Neil

Think FOD

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[Captain Black]

The funny thing is, I'm not much of a wrencher nor am I obsessive about maintenance. As far as I can remember I've never even installed a single farkle. I guess the motivation is to get some input on things to look at while I'm doing the big service. Also, before moving here I always had a great dealership close, as well as a good friend who's a retired BMW tech. Now I live on an island with neither (although I do have some friends). The closest BMW shop is about 6 hours away--that includes a 3 1/2 hour ferry ride.

You live on an island , 6 hours from a BMW dealership ? Sound pretty remote with not much to spend your money on. Maybe they should call the place " NotGotland"

Mind you think of the money your saving....

 

[Mzokk]

Some good advice above.

The standard GS doesn't have a braided clutch line - I believe the ADV does. If you've got a standard GS it's worth changing.

Also worth having a spare hall sensor and starter motor on the shelf ready for when they fail.

Clutch slave cylinder has been mentioned above - I've had a couple fail on 3 x 1150s.

In my experience changing the throttle cables makes the bike feel a lot smoother - you don't realize how bad the old ones are til you change them.

Yip new throttle cables make it feel like a new bike. My bike is a non abs model and I took off the tank and battery carrier to change the cables (the carrier needed painting) doing this makes changing the cables an easy job as you don't have to route around under the carrier.

 

[Nigel]

Check Brake disc thickness is above service limit (4.5mm)
If marginal, investigate costs of replacement, search internet for someone who agrees that the service limit is very conservative. Go back to the pub to spend savings.

 

[YYguy]

You live on an island , 6 hours from a BMW dealership ? Sound pretty remote with not much to spend your money on. Maybe they should call the place " NotGotland"

Mind you think of the money your saving....

It's what I keep telling my wife!

 

[YYguy]

Yip new throttle cables make it feel like a new bike. My bike is a non abs model and I took off the tank and battery carrier to change the cables (the carrier needed painting) doing this makes changing the cables an easy job as you don't have to route around under the carrier.

Good advice. I'm switching the fuel line disconnects and lines so it should make it easy once I have the tank off.

 

[YYguy]

Check Brake disc thickness is above service limit (4.5mm)
If marginal, investigate costs of replacement, search internet for someone who agrees that the service limit is very conservative. Go back to the pub to spend savings.

Still good! Pub savings already spent...

 

[YYguy]

Plan of Attack?

Well, I have everything gathered and the weather is getting to a point where I can actually start thinking about getting this all done. To recap, here's what I'll be doing:

New throttle cables
New fuel line disconnects plus fuel lines, fuel filter, and in-tank hoses
New engine vent hose
Centech fuse panel
Brake line and clutch line flush.
Brake pads
Alternator belt
Nautilus horn and relay
New shocks (HyperPro)
Mount/balance new tires (Anakee3s) and valve stems
Replace all oils, lube the FD splines, adjust valves, sync carbs

The list is in order of doing them, in a way that makes sense to me (eg., alternator belt and horn are easier to install with wheel removed). And I don't have an MC lift so I'll need to do front first and then rear once the front tire is remounted (or vice versa). So, this may be a dumb question but is there any reason to switch the order of any of these tasks? I've never done a slew of things at once like this so thought I'd throw it out there for collective wisdom.

 

[Nigel]

Doesn't necessarily cost money but a carefully. walk through all electrical connections, clean connectors and look for chafed wiring would be on my list.in fact it was on my list , now I think of it

 

[YYguy]

Doesn't necessarily cost money but a carefully. walk through all electrical connections, clean connectors and look for chafed wiring would be on my list.in fact it was on my list , now I think of it

Thanks Nigel, that was duly noted but I didn't include the visual inspection tasks in the above posts if only to not try everyone's patience! But thanks for the reminder--electrical systems are a bit of an achilles heel for me.

 

[Two wheels good]

Copperslip

It's worth cleaning and lubing many bolts and studs with Copperslip - exhaust manifold studs*, ex. clamps, fuel pump cover studs* , ABS sensors, engine cover, sump-guard etc.

*Caution! these studs are prone to shearing if nuts are rusty.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

I have just been caught out by blocked drain hole in tank neck surround!! Opened the filler after washing the bike and a few gollops of water went in the tank!!!

Drained the fuel tank, removed the pump panel and cleaned and dried inside. Let the petrol sit in some clear water bottles and sure enough could see little blobs of water in the bottom. My fear is that letting this sit in the bike which is on the stand for months at a time might lead to rust and a hole.

I put it back together and still the neck drain was not draining. Pokes it a lot with WD40 stem, blowing back up the hose, flushing with petrol, with rag in the tank mouth to stop rusty crap going in. I was able to poke the wd40 stem in maybe 3 inches and finally got it cleared and flowing like a good one..

Hassle but done now.

Bin

 

[warmshed]

Why do you need to fit a "Centech fuse panel" ? there are three spare fuse spaces on my GSA fuse box molding, and I expect on yours too. you just need to fit tagged lucar connectors in them and wire them up, then all your fuses are together and it leaves space for other things. Also only costs about a £1 in total. Oh and take some spare O rings for the fuel lines quick connects.

 

[YYguy]

It's worth cleaning and lubing many bolts and studs with Copperslip - exhaust manifold studs*, ex. clamps, fuel pump cover studs* , ABS sensors, engine cover, sump-guard etc.

*Caution! these studs are prone to shearing if nuts are rusty.

Yeah, as I've begun things on a weather-permitting basis I've discovered this already first hand. I need to move the muffler to install the rear shock and the clamp is pretty seized up with corrosion. I was able to get the nut off the bolt with no problem after some penetrating oil but the clamp seems to be pretty well joined to the bolt and so I can't loosen it. I'm spraying more penetrating oil onto it and will try to hammer it open tomorrow but realize now is a good time to try to clean off the other bolts and studs you've mentioned here.

 

[YYguy]

I have just been caught out by blocked drain hole in tank neck surround!! Opened the filler after washing the bike and a few gollops of water went in the tank!!!

Drained the fuel tank, removed the pump panel and cleaned and dried inside. Let the petrol sit in some clear water bottles and sure enough could see little blobs of water in the bottom. My fear is that letting this sit in the bike which is on the stand for months at a time might lead to rust and a hole.

I put it back together and still the neck drain was not draining. Pokes it a lot with WD40 stem, blowing back up the hose, flushing with petrol, with rag in the tank mouth to stop rusty crap going in. I was able to poke the wd40 stem in maybe 3 inches and finally got it cleared and flowing like a good one..

Hassle but done now.

Bin

I haven't started on the tank yet (other than removing it) but I'm planning on going over it well while I have it off. I got a piece of nylon cord that should work well to unplug the drain holes.