Just had a major service which transformed the 1200GS no end, I rode home on a totally different bike and was a happy bunny. Just been out on it today and its like a bag of spanners, rattley and harsh, like the timing is advanced. Anyone help out here?
My bikes not right?????
- Thread starter RPMDAKAR
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Go out on it tomorrow and let us know how it compares to today and yesterday.
In the meantime we'll all have a think and on the scant information given (not even a year or mileage) we'll all have a guess at something different.
I'll start with "coil sticks/caps" (keeping to the scant info brief).
In the meantime we'll all have a think and on the scant information given (not even a year or mileage) we'll all have a guess at something different.
I'll start with "coil sticks/caps" (keeping to the scant info brief).
Bendy toy
Registered user
I had this sort of behaviour when my primary ignition coil failed and I noticed by chance that one exhaust header seemed a bit cool compared to the other.
"Carefully" feel the exhaust header heat. I mean put a hand close and see if they both feel really hot (as they should - safety rules blah blah).
Swap the coils left/right and see if the cool header swaps sides.
Failing that some useful info about the bike (type, age, etc), fault circumstances, etc, etc would be nice.
"Carefully" feel the exhaust header heat. I mean put a hand close and see if they both feel really hot (as they should - safety rules blah blah).
Swap the coils left/right and see if the cool header swaps sides.
Failing that some useful info about the bike (type, age, etc), fault circumstances, etc, etc would be nice.
take it back to em and swap it back to the one you took in
Thanks for the "helpful and amusing" diagnoses.
Its a 2005 Reg R1200GS 30,000 from new. It was such a difference that even my wife stated that she had noticed it was running rough, and she was on the back!
It has to be something that's died, stopped working for whatever reason. I may have to bite the bullet and get it "plugged in" but at £50 a pop, that's my last resort!
Its a 2005 Reg R1200GS 30,000 from new. It was such a difference that even my wife stated that she had noticed it was running rough, and she was on the back!
It has to be something that's died, stopped working for whatever reason. I may have to bite the bullet and get it "plugged in" but at £50 a pop, that's my last resort!
first off what did they do on the service id have a look around the throttle bodies for dislodged cables check tightness of spark plugs if they were changed and all the connections to the coils obviously the oil level too ! It's the harsh description that you mention that has me stuck really maybe it would be worth taking it back to dealer to let them re check it
Also check if the rubber gromet things on the throttle body's are still attached if they have balance your TBs maybe one has come off
It was a 35000 mile service all fluids inc brake changed, just been down the garage and crawled all over the thing, nothing obvious. started it up and the idle is also rough, nothing like as smooth as it has been. have contacted the dealer and he's OK to look at it in 2 weeks Saturday but its a fair old run on a bike that I am not happy with, as I don't want to shag it up if it's a major issue. Rubber tits in situ
Even though Steptoe was flashing his usual witty repartee his assessment may very well be correct. He does know a wee bit about these things. OK, a wee bit that he doesn't know may be closer to the mark.
I think that your bike is a twin plug engine so pull off the secondary plug leads under the cylinder heads one at a time whilst it's running and see if it goes onto one cylinder and or dies. If it does the primary plug coil pack on the side that quits is deceased. Easy but not cheap to replace.
I think that your bike is a twin plug engine so pull off the secondary plug leads under the cylinder heads one at a time whilst it's running and see if it goes onto one cylinder and or dies. If it does the primary plug coil pack on the side that quits is deceased. Easy but not cheap to replace.
Glad you picked up on it
. I was being as sparse with my diagnosis as the original post was with it's information.
You don't have to pull the plug caps off, just disconnect the lead where it plugs into the cap. That way there's nothing to undo. 2 minute job to test them.
Lets hope the OP understands.
Plugging in a diagnostics will not show a failed coil cap, it's way downstream of the code reading capability.
So save yourself £50 and do the test as posted by Packer and myself.
Bendy toy
Registered user
IMO it's easier to pull the coil before disconnecting the electrical connector. But either Steptoe's or my way, it's a few seconds job. My coils had intermittent faults, so were in and out more times than - - -
If the engine stops you've pulled the good one.
If the engine continues to run rough you've pulled the dodgy one.
My original coils both smelled burnt and guess what they were both knackered. North Oxford sold me one coil saying the other coil wont be long. They were right the other side failed on the way home. New coils have a stainless cover and are much more reliable
If the engine stops you've pulled the good one.
If the engine continues to run rough you've pulled the dodgy one.
My original coils both smelled burnt and guess what they were both knackered. North Oxford sold me one coil saying the other coil wont be long. They were right the other side failed on the way home. New coils have a stainless cover and are much more reliable
Go out on it tomorrow and let us know how it compares to today and yesterday.
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OK guys, I admit to being a little feint with the synopsis and descriptions. Its a twin plug Jobbie, You sound like you are on the money here, As for Steptoe, 100% faith in his ability, as he sorted my R1100GS out many moons ago. I will have a look at the solutions put forward in the daylight tomorrow morning, just need some guidance as to where to find these things.I am suffering from the "I don't know a fucking thing about these bikes and it scares me shitless " syndrome, hence the appeal for help here. I will learn, just be gentle with me please? Thanks for the patience.
Thats sooooooooooooooooooooo funny!
Bendy toy
Registered user
Get the Haynes manual for your bike. There are gaps of information but it covers the basics (like where to find a spark plug). If its all too much you'll need a good mechanic.
At the risk of leaving myself wide open to all & sundrie on these august pages.
Me, Self taught Mechanic, supported Teams for over 12 years at El Chott, Tuareg Rallies in Morocco & Tunisia, BAJA event at Liepzig and Alto Turia Rides in Spain.
Bought & Imported PD R100GS's by the van load during the 2000's. Rebuilt dozens of Airheads for some very satisfied clients. Worked on KTM's Yamahas, Hondas & BMW's in the dessert with little or no specialist tools, so I do know which way a spanner fits on nuts and can do most things on anything mechanical.
My old man was Peter Collins's mechanic during his Hill Climbing career during the early 1950's servicing the JAP Singles, V twins and the first Double Knocker Norton Motor used in a Cooper Car. A reasonable grounding IMHO. Dad always drummed it into me that "if you don't know, ASK" Hence my missive on the OP.
Canbus, scary, Sensors, black magic, Fuel injection, just beginning to understand it. So, not being the font of all wisdom in regards to these later models I have sought the combined wisdom (and wit) of these pages. To those who have had experience and understand these bikes, its easy, all I am asking is to be allowed to learn, and achieve the knowledge that you already possess. I shall pay attention and catch you up eventually.
Again, thanks for the understanding.
Me, Self taught Mechanic, supported Teams for over 12 years at El Chott, Tuareg Rallies in Morocco & Tunisia, BAJA event at Liepzig and Alto Turia Rides in Spain.
Bought & Imported PD R100GS's by the van load during the 2000's. Rebuilt dozens of Airheads for some very satisfied clients. Worked on KTM's Yamahas, Hondas & BMW's in the dessert with little or no specialist tools, so I do know which way a spanner fits on nuts and can do most things on anything mechanical.
My old man was Peter Collins's mechanic during his Hill Climbing career during the early 1950's servicing the JAP Singles, V twins and the first Double Knocker Norton Motor used in a Cooper Car. A reasonable grounding IMHO. Dad always drummed it into me that "if you don't know, ASK" Hence my missive on the OP.
Canbus, scary, Sensors, black magic, Fuel injection, just beginning to understand it. So, not being the font of all wisdom in regards to these later models I have sought the combined wisdom (and wit) of these pages. To those who have had experience and understand these bikes, its easy, all I am asking is to be allowed to learn, and achieve the knowledge that you already possess. I shall pay attention and catch you up eventually.
Again, thanks for the understanding.
The sun's been up for 2 and a half hours now, is it fixed yet
give me a chance mate, just woke up, retired now y'know?
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