My kingdom for a clutch

[adyj]

Been a long time since I posted on the forum - so long in fact that I've had to re-register (the shame of it).
Anyway, my clutch, after 58,000 joyful miles on my GSA, is knackered. Slipping like a good 'un when put under any strain, so will need replacing. Will be ordering the kit from Motorworks (probably), but I'm after a bit of information regarding BMW 'special' tools, recommended in the BMW workshop manual to use when replacing your clutch.

The tools are - guide pins (BMW no. 23.1.820), used to align the gearbox to engine when removing and replacing; clutch housing locking tool (BMW no. 11.5.640), to lock the fly whilst removing the clutch components and refitting; and finally, the cltch centering pin (BMW no. 21.2.673). Hope the part nos. mean something, and that the references are right. Haven't been able to Google them with any success yet.
The question is to those who have replaced their clutch:

did you use the tools, or is there a viable alternative?
if you did use them, where did you buy them from (dealer, independent retailer)?

Be most grateful for your help.

Cheers

 

[MattW]

I think this thread will help - some very good tips from Steptoe on the second page (from post #22). I don't think any of the special tools are actually essential.

Good luck (and take pics -we like pics)

 

[BrianR]

make your own

The BMW aliment pins make sure everything is aliened (no kidding Bri!) when you mate the box to the engine. Thus help preventing bending the clutch pushrod and gets everything central for the G/B spline to mate with the friction plate.

I bought some long bolts 6 inches (three in total) the same thread as the gearbox to engine mating bolts, cut the heads off screwed them into the engine and slid the gearbox over them, remove and replace with the proper bolts.

Friction plate alignment was done with a socket.

total cost of specialist tools 42p

BrianR
http://www.1a-2j.co.uk

 

[Pekkavee]

The BMW aliment pins make sure everything is aliened (no kidding Bri!) when you mate the box to the engine. Thus help preventing bending the clutch pushrod and gets everything central for the G/B spline to mate with the friction plate.

I bought some long bolts 6 inches (three in total) the same thread as the gearbox to engine mating bolts, cut the heads off screwed them into the engine and slid the gearbox over them, remove and replace with the proper bolts.

Friction plate alignment was done with a socket.

total cost of specialist tools 42p

BrianR
http://www.1a-2j.co.uk

M8 x 150 mm bolts are fine.
For centering you can use 4.5 mm drill.
For locking tool just use 7 mm bolt or allen key in clutch housing hole ( at 10.00 a'clock )

Pekka

 

[Steptoe]

. Thus help preventing bending the clutch pushrod and gets everything central for the G/B spline to mate with the friction plate.

]

On an 1150 put the pushrod in through the back of the gearbox after the gearbox is in place

No need to lock the flywheel , the clutch bolts aren't that tight that the flywheel will turn. Plus use the ratchet so that you pushing against the revolving movement of flywheel rather than turning it.

 

[adyj]

Many thanks for your tips guys. I'll be ordering the clutch parts tomorrow, probably from Motorworks. My idea is to replace the whole kit (Motorworks do friction plate, diaphragm spring, cover plate and pressure plate inc. bolts for £190.85) unless anyone thinks it a waste of time to replace the lot and can tell me it's wise do do something different..

..and I'll make sure to take copious photographs to record the fun!

Cheers

 

[Pekkavee]

My idea is to replace the whole kit (Motorworks do friction plate, diaphragm spring, cover plate and pressure plate inc. bolts for £190.85) unless anyone thinks it a waste of time to replace the lot and can tell me it's wise do do something different..

Cheers

It's waste of money. Replace only the friction plate and bolts. I think.
I just did it.

Pekka

 

[Pekkavee]

Sorry, double post

 

[Scuba-Sparky]

Hi All

Is there any way off checking the clutch thickness without stripping the whole bike down?
Worth asking 'The Knowledgable Ones' on the site.

 

[BrianR]

do the lot

I would change the whole thing. Its such a Ball ache stripping the damn thing down I would hate to think I was doing it again before I had too.

Just my 2p worth

Brian

 

[MattW]

I would change the whole thing. Its such a Ball ache stripping the damn thing down I would hate to think I was doing it again before I had too.

Just my 2p worth

Brian

I'm with Brian in this (although I've not had to do a clutch - yet). Seems a false economy to not change the whole clutch when you've spent all the time and effort to strip it apart.

I'd have a long hard look at the crank seal and gearbox input seals too...

 

[Steptoe]

It's waste of money. Replace only the friction plate and bolts. I think.
I just did it.

Pekka

replace the whole clutch unit, your wasting your time just replacing the friction plate, if you only change the friction plate chances are you'll have to replace it all again within 5k miles.

James sherlock is cheaper than motorworks for a clutch kit

 

[adyj]

replace the whole clutch unit, your wasting your time just replacing the friction plate, if you only change the friction plate chances are you'll have to replace it all again within 5k miles.

James sherlock is cheaper than motorworks for a clutch kit

Thanks for the tip. I'll be on the blower to order the full kit tomorrow. Strip down commences tomorrow night!

 

[Ted]

Clutch slip

Had the clutch slip on my gs, similar milage. Found the cluch was ok but oil soaked.
If you are stripping it I would get new seals for both ends of the clutch push rod shaft and also the felt on the push rod. Going to all that trouble taking the box out, only want to do it once. The new/modified seal type are grey, old are black. Nothing worse than stripping the bike and having to order more bits was a days work then turns into a long weekend.
You can tell if there is a leak just take of the clutch slave cyl and if there is oil in there its leaking.

 

[adyj]

Had the clutch slip on my gs, similar milage. Found the cluch was ok but oil soaked.
If you are stripping it I would get new seals for both ends of the clutch push rod shaft and also the felt on the push rod. Going to all that trouble taking the box out, only want to do it once. The new/modified seal type are grey, old are black. Nothing worse than stripping the bike and having to order more bits was a days work then turns into a long weekend.
You can tell if there is a leak just take of the clutch slave cyl and if there is oil in there its leaking.

Top tip, thanks. Seals ordered! Job has started!

 

[adyj]

Sticky dowels

Well. Started the job and have got to the point where I've undone the gearbox bolts, and have it supported on a jack and two cut down bolts as dowels. The box has split from the engine, but won't yet release from the bottom dowel (one of those that Steptoe advises to grease when re-assembling - I can see why!!).

It's pretty tight.It slides of the top dowel, no doubt due to the weight of the gearbox, but I've only got it to budge about 0.5mm from the bottom one. Plenty of WD in there to lube it, but no joy yet.

The question is: how much 'wiggle' room have I got in moving the gearbox around to get it off said problem dowel without bending the push rod?. Don't want to lever either, for fear of breaking a nice piece of cast gearbox/engine!

Grateful for your experienced tips and tricks!

 

[D6]

take the push rod out from the rear

 

[Steptoe]

The question is: how much 'wiggle' room have I got in moving the gearbox around to get it off said problem dowel without bending the push rod?. !

Forget using dowel pins to remove it...

Pull the pushrod out from the back of the gearbox, take out the dowels, then lift the whole lot up by the rear bevel in a short sharp movement. Pop, off it comes.

 

[adyj]

Forget using dowel pins to remove it...

Pull the pushrod out from the back of the gearbox, take out the dowels, then lift the whole lot up by the rear bevel in a short sharp movement. Pop, off it comes.

Spot on again sir. Thanks. Came off a treat!

New clutch in, and time for a rest. Forced myself to come in and leave it till tomorrow. Have took a day off work and I'll now take my time in re-assembling, following your pics and instructions.

Thanks again.

 

[adyj]

Motronic fault?

All back together, and all looked good until I switched on, carried out the usual throttle open/closed, open/closed reset. I started the bike, and it immediately revved to around 5000 rpm. Tried again, and the same. When I dropped the choke off, the revs dropped to 4000 ish.

Thought I'd then check the TPC voltage (which should be between 370mv and 400mv. This was really high at 3.5v, which suggests that there is a fault somewher.

Tried to adjust it, but the minimum voltage I get is 2.57v. Way, way to high.

Re-checked all connections, and haven't found any poor connections (or ones that I've forgotten!)

So near, yet so far. Other than that, it's been a nice job!

Again gents, any pearls of wisdom?