My new 1250 rallye BROKEDOWN

[Delboy777]

You must remember that the best bike is the one that Nutty owns this week

Yes, but aren’t we all the same we have to justify to ourselves the reason for spending our hard earned on such expensive “toys”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[malcopopolo]

It makes me laugh when people say i had a GS did 15000 miles and no problem. Well for 17k i should probably think so!

You should not have any problems at all until 60000 miles then routine maintenance.

 

[Nutty]

It makes me laugh when people say i had a GS did 15000 miles and no problem. Well for 17k i should probably think so!

You should not have any problems at all until 60000 miles then routine maintenance.

If I totalled up the mileages on mine, I’d covered over 70,000 miles on those LC GS’s. Like I said, no issues with any of them, not even corrosion. Apart from the first one that had bent forks. And the second to last one that had to have a new swingarm due to the paint rubbing off. Other than that, no issues.

 

[tanneman]

If I totalled up the mileages on mine, I’d covered over 70,000 miles on those LC GS’s. Like I said, no issues with any of them, not even corrosion. Apart from the first one that had bent forks. And the second to last one that had to have a new swingarm due to the paint rubbing off. Other than that, no issues.

That is like saying my Land Rover is the most reliable car I have had. Nothing broken, I just replaced the half shafts and that should be good for another 20k.

 

[stick]

It makes me laugh when people say i had a GS did 15000 miles and no problem. Well for 17k i should probably think so!

You should not have any problems at all until 60000 miles then routine maintenance.

I did 19000 on my 125 , never missed a beat as well does that count ,

 

[Tyzer]

It makes me laugh when people say i had a GS did 15000 miles and no problem. Well for 17k i should probably think so!

You should not have any problems at all until 60000 miles then routine maintenance.

Its piss poor that's what it is, the reason i buy new bikes every couple of years is so this doesn't happen !

 

[Santa-2512]

You have cabin fever and a strange view of an Italian wobble buggy , don’t waste our time telling us how good it is , I preferred it when you were orange , at least you made more sense . Only kidding ��

Wait till he gets belt anxiety

 

[TheStammeringBiker]

I have this same issue, although not as severe. There is a known issue that is on the BMW PUMA system as a bulletin. Its the battery, or at least thats what the guy who came direct from BMW UK to inspect my bike said. Apparently they changed the battery supplier or type in the 2019 1250's and they have been problematic. The minute I mentioned it to him he knew what it was and the girl at Williams Manchester looked it up and found it immediately. Sadly mine didn't get replaced before the lockdown so I'm having to wait.

Sorry if this has already been mentioned, I'm juggling work and didn't have time to read every page.

 

[TimG]

I thought i would use my bike to collect my daughters prescription today,but seeing as it was a lovely day and ive only been out on it once since last October i did a 15 mile detour so 21 miles in total bit naughty i know!

Got on the bike and guess what the bike wouldn't start ,what a bag of unreliable shite

Waited 30 mins and it started, its really frustrating and i have lost all confidence in the bike.

Its been on an optimate all winter and it started immediately no problem ,for some reason the issue is when its warm.I knew i should have got the Ducati

Take it back to the dealer and they will fit a new battery which should sort it, this does seem to have happened to quite a few 1250s and the battery replacement now appears to be the standard fix.

 

[Tyzer]

I have this same issue, although not as severe. There is a known issue that is on the BMW PUMA system as a bulletin. Its the battery, or at least thats what the guy who came direct from BMW UK to inspect my bike said. Apparently they changed the battery supplier or type in the 2019 1250's and they have been problematic. The minute I mentioned it to him he knew what it was and the girl at Williams Manchester looked it up and found it immediately. Sadly mine didn't get replaced before the lockdown so I'm having to wait.

Sorry if this has already been mentioned, I'm juggling work and didn't have time to read every page.

If its the battery why would it start instantly when cold and not when its warm but then starts when its cooled down, its bit of a mystery ?

Dealer isn't open until 11th May and then on a limited basis only so i'll have to wait untill god knows when to get it looked at, in the mean time if the lockdown is eased i wont feel comfortable using it unless i'm happy to wait 40 mins everytime i stop ! This issue was supposed to have been fixed back in September but it obviously hasn't been. I recorded it on my mobile trying to turn over so i can show to the dealer.

 

[TheStammeringBiker]

If its the battery why would it start instantly when cold and not when its warm but then starts when its cooled down, its bit of a mystery ?

Not a clue mate, mine does the same but also from cold sometimes. It turns the engine maybe almost a full turn then stops like it's run out of oomph to turn the engine over. If I try it a second time it fires up perfectly. Its also usually on an Optimate. But I also get dash errors when it occurs too, which apparently is due to a voltage drop.

I've had Drop Sensor Failure, TCS Failure and one other I forgot but all of those systems are fine. The second I mentioned it to the guy from BMW he smiled, got the girl to look it up and the recommendation is to swap the battery for a different make.

 

[spoonz]

If its the battery why would it start instantly when cold and not when its warm but then starts when its cooled down, its bit of a mystery ?

Dealer isn't open until 11th May and then on a limited basis only so i'll have to wait untill god knows when to get it looked at, in the mean time if the lockdown is eased i wont feel comfortable using it unless i'm happy to wait 40 mins everytime i stop ! This issue was supposed to have been fixed back in September but it obviously hasn't been. I recorded it on my mobile trying to turn over so i can show to the dealer.

The fix is a higher cca battery. It manifests itself on a hot engine because a hot engine is full of combustion and fuel vapours. They act as a block to fuel flow etc, meaning the engine needs a good, fast spin up to purge it.

 

[Tyzer]

The fix is a higher cca battery. It manifests itself on a hot engine because a hot engine is full of combustion and fuel vapours. They act as a block to fuel flow etc, meaning the engine needs a good, fast spin up to purge it.

Interesting,thanks for the explanation

 

[malcopopolo]

Why don't u buy your self one of those emergency starter for about 50 quid?

Would get you going until dealer replaces your battery

 

[fred_jb]

The fix is a higher cca battery. It manifests itself on a hot engine because a hot engine is full of combustion and fuel vapours. They act as a block to fuel flow etc, meaning the engine needs a good, fast spin up to purge it.

I don't understand that comment. So long as the battery is able to spin the engine it should start, hot or cold. It only takes a couple of revolutions for the normal intake and exhaust cycle to complete and clear the cylinders, even in the unlikely event that some mysterious "vapours" are lurking in the engine. Also fuel is injected at very high pressure, so the idea that this could somehow be "blocked" seems a bit fanciful!

More likely I think is a faulty sensor or other component which only misbehaves when hot.

 

[Tyzer]

I don't understand that comment. So long as the battery is able to spin the engine it should start, hot or cold. It only takes a couple of revolutions for the normal intake and exhaust cycle to complete and clear the cylinders, even in the unlikely event that some mysterious "vapours" are lurking in the engine. Also fuel is injected at very high pressure, so the idea that this could somehow be "blocked" seems a bit fanciful!

More likely I think is a faulty sensor or other component which only misbehaves when hot.

It struggles to turn over as if the battery is flat and also shows an error code,various ones, this time it was "front side light faulty" . If i wait 35 to 40 mins it starts, very strange .Its not done it since the original fault last Sept but Ive only done about 700 miles since due to not riding in the winter and the lockdown.

 

[spoonz]

I don't understand that comment. So long as the battery is able to spin the engine it should start, hot or cold. It only takes a couple of revolutions for the normal intake and exhaust cycle to complete and clear the cylinders, even in the unlikely event that some mysterious "vapours" are lurking in the engine. Also fuel is injected at very high pressure, so the idea that this could somehow be "blocked" seems a bit fanciful!

More likely I think is a faulty sensor or other component which only misbehaves when hot.

The logic is simple. With the original batt, if the engine doesn’t catch quickly the cranking volts drop sufficiently to a) reduce spark volume and b) supply enough juice to the ecu for 100% function. The latter accounts for All of the spurious ecu errors that the ecu throws up that have nothing to do with starting issues. The gasses I mentioned Delay the hot starting process enough for both A and B to occur.

To my knowledge the higher cca batt is a 100% fix for the issue.

Have a google of vapour lock or hot start problems if your bored.

 

[pistole]

A hot engine cranks easier than a cold one

 

[spoonz]

A hot engine cranks easier than a cold one

In terms of hydraulic resistance yes although to a much lesser extent with modern oils.

Think what happens to any residual fuel in the hot engine when you stop and fuel sitting In pipes near the injectors directly above a very hot cylinder in the 5 mins you take to fuel up etc. Bear in mind too that engine temps usually rise just after you shut down. Injection pressure is only something like 50/60 psi ( not very high pressure as someone mentioned who I think is confused with direct injection) Which is less than many bicycle tyres run. Then factor in a batt that has been discovered doesn’t deliver the cca it’s specced too on a big twin cylinder with lots of compression. The margin for starting or not then becomes much narrower.

Give it 30 mins and temp reduction means vapours condense back into liquids, batt recovers some juice and away you go. I should add this is not my theory although I’ve filled in some detail. This came via a dealer to a customer that I ride with.

 

[fred_jb]

Not confused at all - with port injection, 50-60 psi is not going to be blocked by gases in the inlet port which will be at or near atmospheric pressure, or less once the inlet valve opens and the engine starts sucking in air via the air inlet, filter and inlet port. Talk of vapours blocking entry of fuel, if as you say originated from the dealer, just sounds like the usual customer service BS when they can't be bothered investigating a fault.

Like others, my experience has always been that engines start more readily when warm. Any effects of a weak battery would be more apparent in cold starting. If that was not the case for the OP, then I still think a temperature related fault is the most likely answer.