Nancy? What kind of name is that?

29th June 2014

Despite an inordinately generous dose of alcohol (the waitress was apparently using a wine measure for the Cognac :D), I sleep fitfully. It's warm and humid and I soon hear the sound of continuous heavy rain. I wander over to the window and it's falling straight down like stair-rods.

Poo

Peter and I meet up for breakfast and tackle the weather problem. Our initial target had been a return to the Dolomites, which we visited a couple of year back, but we have unfortunately chosen a bad period for weather in central southern Europe...

The only weather window we can see in any forecast is fine weather in the Dolomites on Tuesday. We toy with the idea of having a day off the bikes and seeing if things improve, but this idea is quashed when we find the hotel closes on a Sunday and that we have to be out by noon.

Really? A hotel that closes on a Sunday? :eek

Hey-ho. Over a protracted breakfast we decide to bite the bullet and retrieve what we can from a poorly dealt hand of weather. We are going to leave at midday and blatt down the Autoroute to Perpignan and then ride the Pyrenees from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. Although this means yet more Autoroute time, it will give us several good rising days in good forecast weather in an area neither of us is terribly familiar with.

It rains all the time we discuss this. Eventually we pack and get kitted up (my subconscious has blocked out the food & drink bill
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).

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I walk out to the bike and press the starter at exactly midday and we set off through the centre of Gap in a soft drizzle.

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The roads are quite busy and we carefully make our way through the town and join the Autoroute heading southwest. Just after we've got our Péage ticket, Peter stops to take off his waterproof gloves and jacket, as it's looking a little brighter.

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When he tries to restart his bike the alarm activates. It seems to be locked into a cycle and he can't get it to disarm (even tried using the spare key-set I'm carrying). Eventually I am forced to take action and tell him to read the manual. Just after he does this, the alarm starts to behave itself - although Peter assures me that it was nothing to do with reading the manual... :D

I get the feeling we'll be removing the alarm when we get home...

We get underway and head into drier weather, although...

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...clouds stuffed full of rain lurk on all sides...

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The Autoroute is quiet and we make good progress...

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We pass through a couple of tunnels...

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...past field upon field of soft fruit crops swathed in netting (gravity reduces as you approach the equator, so they have to keep the fruit contained)...

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It's getting quite warm now and I've decided that I'll get de-kitted when we next stop for fuel. Shouldn't be long as Peter refuels at about 150ish miles...

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We pull into an Aire and fuel up, buy some baguettes and something to drink and then find...

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...a shady picnic table to have lunch at.

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Very civilised.

After an hour or so we pack up and start heading southwest again...

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The sun is now out and the weather is beautiful - this morning's drizzle is just a bad memory...

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As we ride through Aix-en-Provence, the Autoroute is lined with flowering bushes...

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We stop to pay yet another toll - this Péage plaza is a huge Stalinist affair...

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The climate is definitely Mediterranean now, with tall conifers lining the road...

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After yet another toll, we decide to stop for a drink and an ice cream...

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...we're on holiday, after all...

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We get back on the road and encounter an unpleasant gusty wind coming from the northwest - the Mistral, perhaps?

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The windsocks set up at the roadside are at 90º - the effect is to severely buffet the bike. I'm suffering particularly as it's catching the peak of my XD...

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As we approach Perpignan, our target for tonight, the weather starts building to the north of the Autoroute...

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...and over the Pyrenees beyond the city...

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We encounter a few fat, hard, cold drops of rain, but motor through it without incident.

Peter's TomTom GPS is in charge of finding the hotel. It stops outside a large cemetery and says we've arrived (perhaps it was the dead centre of town?).

We put in an alternative hotel and a few minutes later...

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...arrive at the B&B Sud and check into our small...

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...but perfectly adequate rooms.

After a shower and change, it's time to eat. It so happens that there's a Steakhouse over the road...

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Where we have a light repast...

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...followed by a couple of beers.

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Not the most exciting day's riding, but we should now be positioned for something a little more interesting...

Oops - almost forgot the bridge...

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30th June 2014

I wake to a beautiful day. It is already warm, with hardly a cloud in the sky. Peter is outside already, making new friends amongst the B&B guests by demonstrating his bike alarm.

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Peter and I pack the bikes and are on the road at just before 0830. We start the climb into the foothills of the Pyrenees – everyone else is just starting their commute to work – life is good… :D

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There’s some high altitude cloud mackerelling the sky, but none of the rain bearing stuff we’ve been trying to dodge all week…

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I spot a roadside fruit and veg shop...

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Peter and I are obviously on the same page, as I see his indicator come on...

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We walk into the comparative darkness of the stall and choose from a wide selection of food on offer…

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Apricots…

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…snails…

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…suspicious looking sausages (especially for you Jorgé - a Catalan delicacy!)…

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…lemons, limes…

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…cheeses…

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We end up buying a baguette and some cheese, various fruit and tomatoes, from a lady whose smile lit the room up...
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We put the food in the Adv’s top box and set off again.

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Just down the road, the circus is in town…

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…with lots of the animals being given a bit of air…

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We stop at a supermarket to get some provisions…

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…then set off on a minor D road into the hills…

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…where we find an old fort – looking like it might be a set for Game of Thrones…

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Onward!

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We find a fire track leading off into the woods and decide to top for a spot of breakfast…

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It’s cooler up in the hills, but still warm enough to want to stay in the shade…

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Suitably refreshed, we carry on…

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…past a remarkable several-decker viaduct…

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…which is apparently a small passenger railway service – we come across stations for most of the rest of the day…

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This chap – talking animatedly on his mobile phone and then waving us through impatiently, holds us up for a few minutes…

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This looks like a nice place to have lunch…

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I make up cheese & tomato baguettes from the stuff we bought earlier…

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Peter wears his DILLAC hat and we watch the world go by…

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…including this Hyabusa outfit, who was having great fun on the twisties…

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Not sure about this sausage Jorgé …

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Actually it’s Black Pudding (Blood Sausage) – not to be eaten raw…

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We finish off the fruit…

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…and then set off again…

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The weather is absolutely perfect. The altitude cools the day down perfectly and it’s difficult to imagine a better place to be on two wheels…

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We clear the col (Peter will be providing a full list of these - I expect), and enter lush alpine meadows…

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Riding down the far side of the col is great…

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…the views open spectacularly…

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Today’s mystery car…

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…anyone care to guess make/model/year?

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Onward!

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Skiing and snowboarding pays the bills around here, as the municipal artwork shows…

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What’s this? another circus?

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No animals on display at this one though…

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The roads are poorly surfaced...

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...and very twisty…

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…just right… :D

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Another vista opens before us – the town like a map on the valley floor…

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Miles to go yet…

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…but how could you not stop to savour a view like this?

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As we make the long descent towards Luzenac…

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…the views just keep getting better…

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OK – last leg…

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…we have gentle ride into Luzenac...

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...where Peter spots the Tourist Information point. He comes out having booked us rooms – air conditioned, free Wi-Fi etc – turn next right and it’s 200 metres on the right.

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Actually it’s nearer a kilometre, just past the Talc refinery; the Wi-Fi doesn’t work and there’s no air con. Hey-ho – it’s (relatively) cheap and cheerful – plus the proprietor kindly lets us use a garage to park the bikes :thumb

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We are assigned our rooms and, a shower and change later, meet in the bar. This is a Les Routiers hotel, meaning it’s used by a lot of truck drivers. This means good quality food and plenty of it. No pics of dinner I’m afraid, but my jeans don’t feel nearly so comfortable after eating…

Still unable to get on line (despite the owner’s offer to use the hotel’s PC), I rough draft the journal entry and, after a couple of beers, get an early night.

What a good decision to reposition here.

Good day…

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1st July 2014

Another beautiful morning. I release the Adv form its night-time vault and pack the panniers. It’s getting a few days onto the trip now and the right hand bag is containing not much short of toxic waste… :D

I take a couple of snaps of the fort on the hill behind the hotel...

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I can’t really recommend this place to stay – but can definitely recommend the restaurant. :thumb

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After a continental breakfast we pack and are on our way into a beautiful cool morning…

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After a few clicks, I notice a sign to the left “Route des Cols” – we turn off at the junction to find another set from Game of Thrones on the left…

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…and a hydroelectric plant on the right.

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We’re soon climbing into the mountains…

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We follow the sign to Goulier Neige Access Station out of pure curiosity…

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…and find a fantastic road…

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…with view after view that we just had to stop for…

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We eventually reach the top, take a breather…

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…and then make our way back down the same road…

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There’s a Mountain Helicopter School near here – flying a rotary wing aircraft in the mountains is a special skill and we watch them practicing during the day…

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We see signs for the Via Ferrata...

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...a cable hammered into the side of a mountain to allow people to traverse with the minimum of training (unsurprisingly, this was pioneered by the military)…

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We re-join the Route des Cols…

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…and both have separate wobbles on loose gravel – nothing dangerous, just a case of convincing your arse to let go of the sheepskin really. The first warnings of ‘Gravillons’ appear about 500m later
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I stop for a few minutes by this spectacular waterfall…

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…before continuing up the col…

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…for the view of the road we’ve just ridden…

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Up here the temperature is cool – 65°F – and the air clear…

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We stop for an iced tea and an ice cream (at an eye-watering price)…

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…at a terrace overlooking a lake just below the col…

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There’s a chap flying his Quad-copter just below the terrace – it’s almost silent…

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Onward!

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We continue up the Col de Agnes…

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…which provides us with one of the most beautiful landscapes of the day…

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Descending the other side...

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...we are perplexed to find cones blocking the road...

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We carefully ride between them and come across two chaps on a road crew clearing a bit of a rock fall.

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Very glad I wasn’t here when that came down…:eek

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We both resolve to take more notice of road signs…

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Soon it’s time for lunch…

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…although we should probably look at booking ourselves in here…

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On a more sombre note, there is a memorial to 686 men women and children rounded up by the Vichy French Government and sent to extermination camps in the second war – all the names are listed…

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We set off down the mountain pass, eventually entering the town of Oust, where we stop for lunch at Le Garbet Restaurant…

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...which has a full car park - always a good sign... :thumb

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Lunch arrives in waves, like troops attacking a beach…

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Eventually it’s time to wave the white flag, waddle back to our bikes and get going again…

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During our meal it has started to cloud over and get warmer. The Adv’s thermometer now registers just under 100°F and it’s very humid…

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I open all the vents on my jacket and we ride as fast as is sane for a while to keep cool…

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We ride down a river valley, but it’s still stinking hot…

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Wait a minute – what’s this?

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Anybody care to guess Make/Model/Year?

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We soon turn off onto a very narrow D road, with occasional grass growing in the middle. The road surface is unpredictable and progress is slow.

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Hang on though – what’s this? (Picture taken through a fence I’m afraid) – anyone care to guess Make/Model/Year?

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Eventually Peter’s GPS gives us an option that involves 20km or so on Autoroute – we jump at it...

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We maintain 130kph for a few minutes...

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...and our core temperatures regain a more normal level…

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We get off the Autoroute and I see that the temperature has dropped a little, although it’s still very humid.

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We press towards Luchon, our target for tonight, along a busy and challenging road – overtaking opportunities were few and far between…

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We eventually reach Luchon and follow the sign for the Tourist Information Office – can’t find it…
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I try a couple of hotels and we end up at the Hotel d’Etigny - €52.50 per night including secure garage. The porter walks back to the bikes with me, carries our gear inside and then shows us to the garage. There is Wi-Fi and I connect to it whilst getting ready for the shower.

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It’s like dial-up. An upload speed of 0.2MbPS :eek

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Ah, well – seems I will be doing THREE day’s journal tomorrow night then… :D

Peter meets me in the bar at 1730 and we have a beer – bottled…

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After half an hour we head down the beautiful avenue of trees that line the main street and find the Montagne bar, which serves a very good beer…

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…and food…

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…did I mention the beer?

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Well – we’re on holiday after all…

Whilst we’re eating and drinking, a thunderstorm passes through – I hope it will clear the air for tomorrow.

We get back to the hotel at about 2030 and agree to meet up tomorrow at about 0730 for breakfast and a planning session.

A great day’s riding – coming to the Pyrenees was an excellent plan… :thumb2

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2nd July 2014

A very poor night’s sleep – not sure why. I had the windows wide open to get some air into the room and listened to two heavy rainstorms pass through, but decent sleep eluded me…

I get up and pack at just after 0700. The sky is a light overcast – the Internet connection failed completely yesterday evening and so I’m running on a three-day-old forecast, which says we should have fine weather today…

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I meet Peter for breakfast at around 0730 for a planning session. It looks like a good spread, but actually it’s no different to the B&B buffet…

We pay our (very reasonable) bill. John – the manager – is a real character (I really wish he was called Claude or Jean-Pierre – he should be).

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He tells us that France is the only communist country left in Europe and that he works nine months out of 12 just to pay his taxes. He wants to retire to Portugal…

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We retrieve the bikes from their garage and pack them.

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It’s a cooler morning, with some low level cloud around the hilltops…

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We ride out of Luchon and re-join the Route des Cols…

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It’s a great ride, along some beautiful D class roads…

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Inevitably, we start climbing some cols…

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…and to begin with, manage to stay below cloud…

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However, when we crest the Peyresourde, the weather ahead just looks nasty

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We continue, passing cyclists – all looking thoroughly miserable – coming the other way…

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We spot some Tepees at the side of the road…

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…but our attention is drawn by the fantastic views opening up to our left…

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…and the sole parascender drifting far below…

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Good asses…

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The route we are riding will form part of the Tour de France in few weeks...

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...and the local highways guys are doing some last minute resurfacing.

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It’s difficult to spot the new gravel from the old road surface in the mottled light, so we reduce our speed accordingly…

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Onward!

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We start climbing again, but this time the temperature has dropped and there’s a definite damp, cold feel to the air…

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The view back down the valley is stunning…

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We just stay out of the cloud at Col d’Aspin…

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…and continue towards Col de Tourmalet…

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Where the weather is far less kind to us…

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We enter cloud about eight klicks from the summit…

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I meet a van coming the other way (visibility is down to about three car-lengths) – with a couple on a 1200GS Adv WC overtaking it. If you are a poster on here – I’d keep my hazard lights on all the time if I were you – twat…

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By the time we reach the summit, we are both giggling like mad – it’s completely pointless…

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…although the view makes it all worthwhile…

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We rapidly start our descent and clear cloud quite early…

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Chilly up here, though…

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The locals are not impressed…

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It’s quite common for names to be written on the road surface by cycling fans encouraging their heroes to greater efforts…

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…however, someone here seems to have painted some Gentleman’s tadpoles on the road – and I’m not altogether sure what the message is they are trying to send…:eek

Hey-ho – time for a coffee…

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Exactly on time a café appears on our left. We meet Lettice and her dog Fat…

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Lettice speaks great English, having studied it at university and then spelt two years working in Liverpool.

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We enjoy a coffee each, and a snack – carefully supervised by Fat…

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After settling the bill (and getting our CamelBaks filled with cold water), we set off once again…

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Just down the road we encounter a series of stops for roadworks. Apparently this area was hit by severe flash floods a year or so ago…

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…and the evidence is clear that the work to reopen the road…

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…has been extensive.

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Peter’s GPS turns us up a narrow side road, and then a tiny narrow road back to the town centre…

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…where we stop for a replan.

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We press on towards the Atlantic coast, following the river valley for a while…

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Occasionally passing under avalanche shelters…

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…and sometimes under steel catch-nets…

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Peter’s GPS has a bit of a hissy fit and we seem to circle for a while. We check the paper map and sort the problem…

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We spot the restaurant Arragnat at the side of the road and have their Plat du Jour…

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…followed by a coffee…

Then it’s time to kit-up and set off again.

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It seems a while since we’ve had a barn pic…

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The weather ahead doesn’t look good. In fact it looks like Hell on toast…

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We start the climb and very soon enter cloud. Peter is leading and comes across a sheep lying in the middle of the road. It moved by the time he got his camera out…

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In cloud, the visibility drops to about three car lengths. Since I wear glasses to ride, I’m continually wiping my lenses with my gloved fingers (my visor is open)…

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Descending the other side of the Col de Soulous, I notice a dog in the middle of nowhere.

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She has a gentle disposition and I wish I had some food to give her. There was no habitation nearby – perhaps she belongs to a shepherd?

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Visibility gets worse and worse...

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...until we both stop just after a short tunnel…

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We agree to find somewhere to stop for the day after the next col…

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We meet up briefly with a couple of Germans – one of whom is riding a K1200S – not the bike I’d choose for these conditions…

Since my glasses are continually fogging up, I decide to remove them, but loop the arm through a strap on my tank bag in case I need them. Alas, when I stop again, this is all that remains…

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Bugger
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Thankfully I have a spare pair.

Peter briefs me on where he intends to look for accommodation and tells me to go ahead, as he is arm-wrestling with his bike alarm again. I follow the route he describes to me (my GPS is working off ‘Base-Map’ as I wasn’t expecting to be travelling in this part of France) and wait at a vantage point to take a picture.

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And wait.

And wait.

Eventually I decide he must have had snags getting the alarm and immobiliser to disengage and return to where I left him, but he’s not there. I slowly return to the town of Eaus-Bonnes, where I’d awaited him and look for a turn off he might have taken, without success.

Weird.

I stop at a café in plain sight and have a coffee, expecting him to appear at any time. Nothing.

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Now, unbeknown to me when I set off, my mobile phone provider does not allow use on the continent. I use a pay-phone and find that we have (somehow) passed each other without seeing one another and that Peter’s in an hotel about 15 klicks away. I pay for my call and then make tracks, arriving at about 1700 – thirty minutes in advance of a downpour…

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The Hotel France...

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...has (for the first time in a few days) a reasonable Wi-Fi connection and I start uploading several hundred pictures to Smugmug…

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After a shower I repair to the bar, where the barman takes me at my word when I ask for a large beer… :D

Excellent!

We stroll across the road to a small bar and have something to eat…

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…followed by dessert…

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Then we make our way across the damp village square…

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…to the hotel and call it a night.

Great day.

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3rd July 2014

Another restless night. I got up two or three times during the night and, when I did so, checked on the mammoth upload of photos I am doing to my Smugmug account.

At 04:30 or so, I start putting together a couple of the journals I’d had in rough draft. This takes until about 0600 and I then return to bed, to be awoken by a knock on the door from Peter at 0645.

It seems that there is some weather heading north from the Pyrenees into France and we need to get ahead of it.

I carry the gear down to the bike – it’s a cool, dank morning and there has clearly been a lot of rain overnight.

I pay the bill and we’re on the road at just after 0730.

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Peter leads off through town and we join an interminable series of roads split by roundabouts, clogged with traffic and make very slow progress...

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Eventually we join the Autoroute and start making tracks northward...

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We set a cruise of 130kph...

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...there's virtually no traffic on the road...

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I've done up all the vents on my jacket and the temperature is comfortable...

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We make the first of several fuel stops...

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I cannot believe they are charging €9.90 for a ham salad roll :eek

We get served by a cheerful young mademoiselle...

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...and have one of the 'specials' that are merely extortionately priced...

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We plot up over breakfast and decide to head towards Tours as a nominal target for tonight...

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Once we are off the toll road, traffic increases considerably. The good news is that we're now well ahead of the weather and the sun's out...

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We overtake a trio of Spaniards on GSes...

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...just before stopping for lunch at a trucker's restaurant...

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It's a hive of activity inside, but we're served quickly from a set menu...

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All the food is tasty and (where appropriate) piping hot...

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Peter asks me for the address for the B&B Hotel in Tours and enters it into his GPS. We set off again - the thermometer on my handlebars is reading in the high 90s...

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Anybody care to guess Make/Model/Year?

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It's really warm now - we're both drinking continually from our Camelbaks...

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We leapfrog this army convoy...

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I can't make up my mind whether they are multi barrelled rocket launchers, or surface to air missile containers. The absence of any radar travelling with them makes me think it's probably the former - anyone know?

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No prizes for guessing this one...

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How about this one?

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Twenty minutes out, Peter pulls into another Aire - good call...

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It has been a long day...

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We get kitted up for the last leg and ride into Tours. We both spot the B&B hotel off to the right, but it seems Peter's GPS has other ideas. We end up deep in the centre of Tours - clearly not where this type of hotel is normally situated.

We become separated and I make my way back down the AutoRoute and get a room in the B&B we saw.

We'll both go our separate ways from here (Peter was going to leave in Kent to see his daughter on the way home anyway). I plan on an early night and an early start for Calais tomorrow...


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Great report.

I rode the Col de Tourmalet in visibility similar to yours a few years ago. I found it really hard work and hated it.

(Citroen H van, 1958 at a guess.)
 
4th July 2014

I sleep well and get up at 0500 to make a start for the Eurotunnel. I’m packed and riding off into a new day by 0600…

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Who travels fastest, travels alone…

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It's a similar day to the one when I set off from Scarning last Thursday, with a cool, crisp feel to the air and mist lying in the fields at the side of the AutoRoute...

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Can't see it lasting, though. There's clearly some weather ahead of me, as well as some nasty stuff behind. It's just a case of trying to stay in the middle... :D

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I have the speed set at 130kph and am listening to a BBC Podcast (Film Review shows with Simon Mayo & Mark Kermode)...

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I stop at this weird little Aire for a quick coffee, then get back on the road...

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Whilst recaffeinating, I took the precaution of donning waterproof liners and gloves...

This pays dividends when it pisses down for 20 minutes or so. At the next fuel stop I revert to fine weather gear and that's the last I see of rain today :thumb

I arrive at Eurotunnel over a day early - it costs just €3 to get me on the next train...

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Just time to stop for a burger...

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I'm soon ensconced in the metal tube with my fellow riders...

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...including Neil & Tracey, a couple on a KTM something or other, who are returning from a trip in the Pyrenees too.

We arrive in Folkestone a few minutes before we left Calais and, after a wave goodbye to Neil & Tracey, I stop to fill up at the Esso station at the terminal - a tankful will comfortably get me home from here.

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It's a beautiful day and the roads are not too busy...

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An old couple out for a spin...

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Can anyone tell me what it is?

Traffic builds up considerably near the Dartford Tunnel and I have to filter (lane-split) for three miles or so. Once through the toll (free for bikes :thumb)...

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...progress is a lot quicker.

I run into more traffic at the junction of the M25 and M11 (overtaking Neil & Tracey on their KTM :D)...

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But once again, once clear of the knot of traffic at the junction, I can make good progress...

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Somebody trailering their new project home (bit easy, this one)...

Before I know it I'm turning off the M11 and following the A11 towards Mildenhall. A mile or so short of the junction I come across a very recent collision - one truck has run into the back of another. It's quite clear that this will almost certainly be a serious injury accident, but there are plenty of people milling around talking on mobile phones, so I ride by - I see an ambulance heading that way as I take the road past Lakenheath...

I'm soon turning down the road through the splendidly named Daffy Green, before arriving home at 1445.

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I'm knackered...

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Knackered physically but I am sure in very high spirits after such a splendid journey. Thanks for taking us along and for the splendid pics. Mike, If I may ask, where and how do you mount your camera to take such well-composed shots when on the bike. It is an art I am yet to master.
 


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