New Project

[Stirlingmoz]

Found a guy on YouTube meticulously restoring an R80ST (so bike in the same family)

He’s got those earth wires fitted to the voltage regulator mounting.

Will check and see if my ground wires naturally fall there (don’t have a regulator at the moment but the bracket is there)

One thing I noticed is that he ran the main wiring harness down the right side of the frame.

Mine currently runs down the left

May have to undo the electrical work I’ve done so far.

This is one of the hurdles to overcome building a disassembled bike that I’ve never seen in one big piece.

Not complaining. It’s all part of the fun.

 

[Mad Hatter]

I learned on mine that if you put the loom high up on the left side of the frame it will foul the tank. Lower down of the left side is ok

I used the bolts mounting the voltage reg and the ignition unit for my earth points

 

[Stirlingmoz]

I’ve run out of rolling frame parts for the time being so moved on to the engine today.

Time to do some cleaning of the mess behind the front cover

It’s a bit mucky in there

All the parts removed

The timing chain and sprockets look in good condition, the nose bearing spins beautifully but there is evidence someone’s been in here before. That washer doesn’t look oem to me

Whoever fitted the gasket did so dry. It was an absolute pig to get off.

I was taught by an old sage at Merton Technical College to lightly grease gaskets on both faces. It pays off in spades if you ever have to remove them again.

One of the smaller gaskets seems to have slipped and missed the bolt

Again..a very light smear of grease would have kept in the right place.

It’s clean behind there now and a new gasket is fitted.

Just waiting for the timing cover to come back from the powder coaters.

This gives me time to clean up all the parts I removed and order some new seals for the bean can and crankshaft
(and replace that incorrect washer)

 

[mikeyboy]

While you’re in there you might consider replacing the oil pressure relief spring,
They rub on the inside of the housing and can snap resulting in an instant lack of oil pressure.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

While you’re in there you might consider replacing the oil pressure relief spring,
They rub on the inside of the housing and can snap resulting in an instant lack of oil pressure.

The one in here Mikey ?

 

[mikeyboy]

Yes it’s in there,
Remove the stud,as it will be in the way.
Heat the housing with a hot air gun to soften the thread lock.
I use a parallel punch in the holes to turn the cylinder

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Yes it’s in there,
Remove the stud,as it will be in the way.
Heat the housing with a hot air gun to soften the thread lock.
I use a parallel punch in the holes to turn the cylinder

Got a tool for this job Mikey.

It’s a socket with holes, pins and a keeper.

You just push it in over the spring housing, insert the pins and slide the keeper on to keep the pins in place and then just wind it out.

I’ve only ever used it on bearing carriers removed from the engine.

I guess there’s no reason why I couldn’t try and pull that stud and do the job in situ.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Spent a bit of time today cleaning and refurbing the only G/S specific carb I have.

It’s a 64/32/349 - a left side.

Need to try and find a matching
64/32/350 right side carb to keep it company

Choke levers and cover screws are missing sadly but it looks much better than when I fished it out of the box this morning.

May get it vapour blasted if I can find the right side carb and they can get done together.

 

[lewisjohn]

Spent a bit of time today cleaning and refurbing the only G/S specific carb I have.

It’s a 64/32/349 - a left side.

Need to try and find a matching
64/32/350 right side carb to keep it company

Choke levers and cover screws are missing sadly but it looks much better than when I fished it out of the box this morning.

May get it vapour blasted if I can find the right side carb and they can get done together.

I have a matched pair of 32mm bings which according to the Clymer manual are R80 GS specific.If of any interest PM me.
John

 

[Gelandestrasse]

In my box I have 2 pairs - 64/32/305/6 and 64/32/301/2 - like John, PM if interested.

According to Duane Ausherman https://w6rec.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Page2-2.jpg they are R80 spec and the 305/6 were fitted to G/S, GS, ST and RT (ref MAX BMW Fiche). I guess the 301/2 were early R80.

From the link you can see what jets, etc, were fitted to each carb.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Thanks for the carb replies guys.

I actually have a restored pair of 64/32/359 and 64/32/360 carbs which I believe are for the rarer R65G/S and came with the project.

I guess I could just re-jet these to suit but my OCD makes me want to at least try and find a 64/32/350.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

I’m assured the powder coated timing cover will be back with me next week.

In the meantime I’ve tidied up the various bits of wiring that live there.

Repaired all the cuts and nicks in the insulation and covered it in a wrap sealed with heat shrink.

No one will ever see under the front cover but I’ll know it’s reasonably tidy and durable.

 

[Bubb]

This reminds me to post the gear lever….sorry I forgot….will post soon

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Powder coating arrived today.

Really pleased with the finish.

Seems such a shame to have to sand it back on the fins so it looks original



Couldn’t resist temporarily popping them on the engine, just to get an idea..

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Spent quite a bit of time today rubbing powder coat off the engine cases.

I’m really pleased how it looks but I did catch the good stuff a couple of times.

A little t cut saved me from disaster

The inside before I refitted the electrics

And then refit all the gubbins

The starter cover is tight on the engine now the airbox is rebuilt and fitted.

May have to remove the powder coat from the ends. I guess you won’t see it.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

And then a bit of a surprise.

I got the engine on TDC on the right cylinder and refitted the front engine cover.

Removed the valve cover and discovered it’s been twin plugged.

Never had that before.

A job for another day is to remove the cylinder head and barrel and see what we have.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

And then a bit of cosmetics.

Back in the 80’s my local BMW dealer was Coombs of Guildford.

They were bought out by Vines in the 90’s I think.

I’ve had a Coombs key ring for years but had this retro replica plate made to match

Just a bit of period correct bling

 

[Stirlingmoz]

And then this happened

A jet holder snapped like a carrot in the carb body.

Time to stop and take stock I think

 

[Bubb]

Looking good Pete.

Hope no more nasty surprises….snapped bits.
Keep it up, and it’ll soon be back on the road making you smile

 

[barny]

As its pretty well knackered any way you may be able to heat the body a little in an oven 50/60 deg then use a suitable male Torx bit to drive in and turn. Do not push it in to hard or you will deform the jet in the casting and make it harder to get out.