New Project

[Stirlingmoz]

Quick job after work.

I read that getting the ‘guide ring’ off the rear of the crankshaft can be troublesome.

This one didn’t put up too much of a fight and i’m chuffed with what it revealed.

Really clean behind there and the thrust bearing looks in great condition..

The guide ring itself has a witness mark where the rear main seal sits but you can’t feel it with a finger nail. I’ll change the ‘o’ ring but it’s good to go again.

Oil pump cover off tomorrow. Hopefully just a quick clean and measure up.

The clutch parts are caked in friction material dust. They all need a clean and re-assembley and the back of the engine is done.

We can then move to the front

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Oil pump cover removed.

Measures up within spec.

Nice and clean in there too.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Mostly engine work in the time I had available this weekend.

Did manage to fit the handlebars though.

 

[mikeyboy]

Oil pump cover removed.

Measures up within spec.

Nice and clean in there too.

Not wanting to teach grannies to suck eggs,
But Make sure to give the oil pump plenty of lube before refitting,
It will draw the oil up better when the engine is recommissioned.
I’ve seen one seize up when built up totally dry

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Not wanting to teach grannies to suck eggs,
But Make sure to give the oil pump plenty of lube before refitting,
It will draw the oil up better when the engine is recommissioned.
I’ve seen one seize up when built up totally dry

Top tip thank you Mikey.

I recall many years ago rebuilding a Rover V8 and having to pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly or Vaseline (can’t recall which now) to give it a fighting chance to actually pump oil on start up. I’m sure that was in the Haynes.

 

[Bubb]

Vaseline is petroleum jelly I think…….or very similar

 

[Mistacat]

Top tip thank you Mikey.

I recall many years ago rebuilding a Rover V8 and having to pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly or Vaseline (can’t recall which now) to give it a fighting chance to actually pump oil on start up. I’m sure that was in the Haynes.

On Rover V8`s after rebuild I always took out the distributor and used a home made tool in an air drill to prime the pump and circulate the oil for a minute before starting.
I have on other engines used a pressure reservoir filled with oil and plumbed into an oil galley powered by an airline when first turning the engine over.
I guess I don`t like leaving things to chance.

 

[Mad Hatter]

If it’s been rebuilt or standing for a long time I always pull the plugs, earth them, and spin the motor on the starter a good few times to get oil to all the bearing surfaces without any load on them

 

[Stirlingmoz]

So with Mikey’s advice ringing in my ears and because it may be a while before this engine runs, I pulled the oil pump and gave it a liberal coating of Permatex engine building super sticky lube.

It’s all back together now with a new RMS and ‘o’ ring in the guide.

Flywheel on with new bolts.

Clutch back in with a new friction plate and new bolts.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Cleaned out the starter motor well

And replaced all the bolts inside the inner cover with stainless.

Gonna pull that cover off next and get it powder coated.

It will allow me to clean behind it and check the timing chain condition.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Offered up the empty gearbox case and airbox case just to see what they look like and make sure I have the right fittings.

And got some parts together for powder coating.

That’s it for today and probably as much I can do on the engine for the moment.

I’ve got some new head races now, so that’s the next job.

 

[Mad Hatter]

I really do like the patina on the cases. You’ve convinced me to do the same on my next project rather than have them blasted

 

[barny]

Cleaned out the starter motor well

And replaced all the bolts inside the inner cover with stainless.

Gonna pull that cover off next and get it powder coated.

It will allow me to clean behind it and check the timing chain condition.

I would be tempted to replace the Diode board will your in there. The new design ones with heat sinks are not that expensive but are reliable.

 

[Stirlingmoz]

New steering races fitted this morning..

Have you see the price of swingarm bearings Ho hum - like I have a choice.

I need to get this up on its wheels so I can move it about

 

[Bubb]

It’s coming on well…….keep it going, and it’ll soon be on the road

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Couldn’t resist popping the forks into the yokes just to see..

Ordered some fork gaiters as they look naked without them

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Day off today so had a few hours on the bike this morning. Got it to this point..

Started on the wiring harness repairs and fitting.

A headlight assembly is proving elusive.

Anyone know where the wiring harness picks up its ground ?

Got a couple of brown wires with ring terminals but not sure where they bolt down.

 

[Kenny]

One at the lower nearside gearbox mounting ( allen bolt ) and the other anywhere on the frame TBH

 

[Stirlingmoz]

One at the lower nearside gearbox mounting ( allen bolt ) and the other anywhere on the frame TBH

Thanks Kenny.

I can’t fit the heavy gauge battery ‘earth’ lead yet.

I think that’s one you mean when you reference the gearbox mounting ? The one at the speedo drive exit ?

There’s no engine or transmission in the frame at the moment and may not be for some time.

The wiring harness itself has a couple of brown wires ending in copper ring terminals.

It’s these I was looking to home. I guess your right - they could go anywhere but was wondering where they were from factory ?

 

[Nin]

There’s a tag on the frame on the central top bar up near the bracket for the relays that holds some of the earths. the other is the braided one you mentioned that’s often held in with the speedo drive bolt.

It’s not bad practice to create your own with a heavy gauge wire to the negative battery terminal and a bus bar to use as a common earth

- that certainly helped a lot with my Guzzi build so I stuck one on the G/S I built as well. I just tied it in the the underneath of the main frame top tube.

Remember also the rule for wiring under vibration - a bad crimp is better than a good solder!