No feel on rear brake pedal

[Jallani]

Hopefully a straightforward question...just changed rear tyre on my 2013 LC and took off the wheel and brake caliper. Put it all back together and no feel whatsoever in the pedal. Been pumping the foot pedal for ages and no difference. I havent taken the bike out for a ride yet.

The brake light comes on when the pedal is pressed but there is zero pressure on the wheel. The caliper was off dangling for a few days...

Any ideas? Do I need to bleed it or is there a simpler solution here?

Any advice appreciated as this must be a common issue. Thanks


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[kurienp]

Jallani, pumping the brake pedal should work but take it out for a short ride around the block and use the front brake. With linked brakes you should be able to stop. See if that makes a difference.

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[filbe]

you should be able to stop.

:

 

[Jallani]

Jallani, pumping the brake pedal should work but take it out for a short ride around the block and use the front brake. With linked brakes you should be able to stop. See if that makes a difference.

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Thanks for reply Kurienp. I notice the rear wheel does reduce speed when I use the front brake lever but nothing on the brake pedal. Still haven't taken it out for a spin but suspect a ride may not make any difference (unless someone tells me otherwise?).

I wanted to get the MOT this weekend. Assume it'll fail if the rear brake pedal isn't working? I may have to try bleeding the rear brakes.

 

[tadhgocuilleain]

The caliper was off dangling for a few days...

Hopefully you haven't damaged your brake lines - it's recommended to tie them up with string to prevent the hose getting damaged.

As you said, I'd start by bleeding the brakes. Also check the hose for damage or kinks.

 

[stephen.stallebrass]

Did you push the brake pads in when removing the wheel and caliper? You'll need to pump the brake pedal to get the pistons back out. Did you lose any brake fluid out of the reservoir when you pushed the pistons in? If you've lost fluid you'll need to bleed the brake.

 

[ChazzyB]

Why did you remove the caliper?

 

[Jallani]

Removed caliper to enable the rear wheel to slide out without having to drop exhaust and undo touratech luggage frame.

Didnt touch rear brake pedal. Just squeezed out the pads a little to enable me to squeeze it back onto disc after wheel replaced. Pumping the pedal now has no impact.

Fluid is topped to max.

??

 

[vRSG60]

Try bleeding the caliper from the caliper bleed nipple, obvious I know.

 

[ChazzyB]

I can't quite picture how removing the caliper helped to take the wheel out. Not a solution to your current problem, I'm just curious. With my GS, the wheel will come out between the exhaust and the shovel. The disk stays in place on the hub.

 

[Neavey]

Sounds like the same issue I had on my 2015 GSA, I hadn't done anything to the brake at all just noticed one day when trying to pull away on a hill, the back brake went straight to full travel. I was in Rome at the time, but as they were linked I continued back home on just the front brake.

Took it to the dealer and was told that it is a known but very rare problem, they bled the brakes under warranty and I haven't had the problem again. So it could be just be coincidence that you had just removed the caliper and rear wheel.

 

[vRSG60]

I can't quite picture how removing the caliper helped to take the wheel out. Not a solution to your current problem, I'm just curious. With my GS, the wheel will come out between the exhaust and the shovel. The disk stays in place on the hub.

Pretty sure I had to take my caliper off. The LC rear tyre is wider than previous models.

 

[CPJS]

No need to take the caliper off. Take out the top two fixings of the stupid plastic mudguard thingy, swing it down out of the way and the wheel will come out, even on a lowered chassis version.

 

[ChazzyB]

No need to take the caliper off. Take out the top two fixings of the stupid plastic mudguard thingy, swing it down out of the way and the wheel will come out, even on a lowered chassis version.

As said, I found I could get the wheel out of my lowered bike without removal of anything. Mind you, I've now got an Akra on the new bike which appears to sit lower and closer to the wheel.

FWIW, the travel on my brake pedal got bad last week-end during a high-miles trip. The brake still works fine, but there's too much travel. The last GS had the same problem, even after the 1 year fluid change.

 

[Jallani]

Tried bleeding the brake using the old way of pumping the foot lever and opening/closing the caliper bleed nut but the fluid is only trickling through. Tried another method of keeping the lever pressed down over night (leaving reservoir cap off) to let any air bubbles escape but still no feel in the lever.

Can anyone suggest anything else?

Thanks

 

[squibb34]

Whilst I don't claim any GSLC experience, I run a Super 10 with an linked ABS system & I know some owners have run into similar issues due to forcing old fluid back through the ABS pump. Surely, unless you are fitting new pads it shouldn't be necessary to push the pistons back anyway?? These days, if you are replacing pads, then I understand it is best practice to release the bleed nipple to expel fluid, rather than it be forced back up the system. Hindsight is a wonderful thing though.

The condition can usually be sorted by a vac bleed of the system, using a jumper to run the ABS pump briefly to make sure it is filled with fresh fluid. My local dealer charges about £30 at the last count.

Good luck sorting this ...................... KEN

 

[JJH]

I ride my l/c all year round and both breaks are prone to seizing. Cue big screwdriver on front breaks and foot pushing back brakes over to push pistons back. I do this every day in winter. Never any problem. I'd say the problem you are having is technique related. JJH

 

[Santa-2512]

Tried bleeding the brake using the old way of pumping the foot lever and opening/closing the caliper bleed nut but the fluid is only trickling through. Tried another method of keeping the lever pressed down over night (leaving reservoir cap off) to let any air bubbles escape but still no feel in the lever.

Can anyone suggest anything else?

Thanks

Sounds like a blockage?

Pump the pedal, and get someone to hold it down while you crack the bleed nipple.
Fluid should come out under some pressure.. then as the fluid flow diminishes, close the nipple and re pump/pressurise the system.

Just a thought? did you push the pistons back in before you refitted the caliper? and if you did was the ignition on?

There used to be problems on ABS cars that if the pitons were forced back with the ABS system energised, the reverse

pressure could blow the seals in the ABS module?

Have you tried pumping the front brake and opening the rear nipple? (if its a linked system?)