AdieL
Guest
No I havn't but there is no way of checking without draining it.
No I havn't but there is no way of checking without draining it.
RickG
Registered user
You can check by carefully unscrewing the 'not an oil level plug' halfway up the FD at the rear. If you just ease it past the end of the threads but keep it in roughly in place you should be able to let a bit of oil leak past the plug without losing much at all, especially as the oil is thick and it's a small hole. If nothing comes out, which it should, then rotate the wheel forwards which should pick up oil on the crownwheel and lift it to the level of the hole. If still nothing...
AdieL
Guest
Just tried that, no need to turn the wheel, and the tiny amount of oil that ran over my finger looked clean.
RickG
Registered user
This new thread may be worth a look
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228549
It's not the same problem you seem to have but again shows the disk/wheel carrier (the alloy lump that is splined onto the 'axle' that both the disk and wheel bolt to) can develop a wobble, whether this is always due to play in the splines I'm not sure.
It therefore may be worth checking the disk/wheel runout as this may point to a problem with the carrier. In the event you don't have a dial gauge in your toolkit just bodge a stick (pencil) onto the swing arm with a lump of plasticine or similar so the point just touches the wheel at the edge of the rim. Then rotate the wheel to see if the contact is continous or intermittant, the latter implying a misalignment somewhere. Do the same on the edge of the disk just in case it's the wheel alone
I'm not sure how such a problem would cause the rubbing you describe but it could point to the issue with the carrier being out of true.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228549
It's not the same problem you seem to have but again shows the disk/wheel carrier (the alloy lump that is splined onto the 'axle' that both the disk and wheel bolt to) can develop a wobble, whether this is always due to play in the splines I'm not sure.
It therefore may be worth checking the disk/wheel runout as this may point to a problem with the carrier. In the event you don't have a dial gauge in your toolkit just bodge a stick (pencil) onto the swing arm with a lump of plasticine or similar so the point just touches the wheel at the edge of the rim. Then rotate the wheel to see if the contact is continous or intermittant, the latter implying a misalignment somewhere. Do the same on the edge of the disk just in case it's the wheel alone
I'm not sure how such a problem would cause the rubbing you describe but it could point to the issue with the carrier being out of true.
AdieL
Guest
Hi Ricky, yes I had seen the recent post and was thinking the same thing. I've just done the run out test you have suggested and the pencil leaves the rim by at least 1mm during a full rotation, maybe a bit more. The same on the disc but not quite as much because of the smaller diameter. Do You think this is within tolerance?
I have a mate calling round soon with his GS so I will do some comparisons.
Also when riding, applying the brakes does not seem to affect the noise, or pulling the clutch in.
AdieL
Guest
Well that was quite interesting. Span the wheel of my mates bike, a bit of disc rub but not as much as mine. Removed the caliper - no noise. Did the run out test, similar to mine but on his the pencil left the wheel twice in one revolution where mine was only once but was off the wheel for half of the revolution. We also used a round file to listen to the FD. On his there was just a continuous whirring noise, mine had a clicking as well.
So I appear to have a FD problem which is causing the disc to get very hot after only a short ride.
So I appear to have a FD problem which is causing the disc to get very hot after only a short ride.
RickG
Registered user
I'd suggest a 1mm run-out at the rim was pretty small and wouldn't worry me unduely, but if the disk is moving too it does suggest the carrier is slightly out of whack. That was measured without the caliper was it, as otherwise the pads may be centering the disk and hence the wheel?
If your drive is getting significantly hotter than your mates there's something odd going on which is causing friction. It is hard not to suspect brake as the main supect simply as to generate that much heat within the FD itself would mean the bearings must be tighter than a duck's bottom, or they forgot to put any oil in there at the last service but you've checked that.
And you've said the pads and pistons are free to move.
Any way your dragging the brake lever? Do the fronts get hot too.
Clicking in the FD may be due to the bearing tracks or rollers being damaged, it should sound smooth and quiet.
Check out Pat's posts on FD rebuild etc, it's v. good.
Finally, it must be dealer time. Go to a different one if you've upset the one you last used. I'd steam in after a good run and get them to cop a feel of the FD if it's getting as hot as you describe. I can't think of much else you can try unless you are prepared to swing down the FD and check the input shaft bearings etc, but if you are still under warrenty you shouldn't have to bust a gut yourself to get this sorted.
Good luck
If your drive is getting significantly hotter than your mates there's something odd going on which is causing friction. It is hard not to suspect brake as the main supect simply as to generate that much heat within the FD itself would mean the bearings must be tighter than a duck's bottom, or they forgot to put any oil in there at the last service but you've checked that.
And you've said the pads and pistons are free to move.
Any way your dragging the brake lever? Do the fronts get hot too.
Clicking in the FD may be due to the bearing tracks or rollers being damaged, it should sound smooth and quiet.
Check out Pat's posts on FD rebuild etc, it's v. good.
Finally, it must be dealer time. Go to a different one if you've upset the one you last used. I'd steam in after a good run and get them to cop a feel of the FD if it's getting as hot as you describe. I can't think of much else you can try unless you are prepared to swing down the FD and check the input shaft bearings etc, but if you are still under warrenty you shouldn't have to bust a gut yourself to get this sorted.
Good luck
The clicking sound is a good indicator of a bearing defect - I sell an acoustic bearing monitor for rail vehicle bearings and the regular clicking is what it looks out for. If you have a small spall on the raceway you will get a clicking as the roller passes over the defect. This will only get worse, spread around the raceway and then the bearing will get hot and fail as the friction increases and debris in the oil increases.
Another possibility is that the cage is breaking up on the main bearing and the clicking is caused by the cage moving around or rubbing against the raceways.
Remember, you may well get a different noise when riding as the bearing will be loaded with the weight of the bike on it, rather than suspended from the bike.
Another possibility is that the cage is breaking up on the main bearing and the clicking is caused by the cage moving around or rubbing against the raceways.
Remember, you may well get a different noise when riding as the bearing will be loaded with the weight of the bike on it, rather than suspended from the bike.
AdieL
Guest
Sorry guys, finaly got to the bottom of the problem and would you believe it was just tyre noise. After linking up with a couple of other threads giving similar symtoms the common link was the Michelin Pilot Road tyres. Now changed to a Roadsmart and noise gone. Its just hard to believe that a tyre could make so much noise!
dave perry
Registered user
Calliper Mod !
Hi Guys, I have been having a fair bit of bother with rear discs and pads; I've just fitted the third disc. BMW original lasted 27,000, J Sherlock's lasted just 7000 miles, and has been eating pads. I was rebuilding the rear calliper this morning, and noticed that the slider pins were popping back out of their rubber boots when pressed in. The grease was making a nice seal around the pins, so the air in the boot/guide was being prssurised slightly, not allowing them to sit in a natural position. I tried a few times to get the plot to sit right, but with no luck. I then drilled a tiny hole in the back of the guide to let the air out. It seemed to work, and just got back from a blast to Brid and back _ cool disc and no pad dust on the wheel !! I will post a photo soon (BBQ is calling !) regards dp
Hi Guys, I have been having a fair bit of bother with rear discs and pads; I've just fitted the third disc. BMW original lasted 27,000, J Sherlock's lasted just 7000 miles, and has been eating pads. I was rebuilding the rear calliper this morning, and noticed that the slider pins were popping back out of their rubber boots when pressed in. The grease was making a nice seal around the pins, so the air in the boot/guide was being prssurised slightly, not allowing them to sit in a natural position. I tried a few times to get the plot to sit right, but with no luck. I then drilled a tiny hole in the back of the guide to let the air out. It seemed to work, and just got back from a blast to Brid and back _ cool disc and no pad dust on the wheel !! I will post a photo soon (BBQ is calling !) regards dp
dave perry
Registered user
must find out how to post photos - catch you later !
Similar threads
