non buenas noctches

[monkeyboy]

1150GS. When rolling the bike backwards, and when the bike is static, moving the bars gives big notchy sensations every say 20 degrees. I changed the steering head bearing a while ago and I doubt it's that. Holding the top yoke when moving the bars I can't feel anything wrong. It's got normal road tyres on so it's unlikely to be a function of the tread pattern.

It's especially bad left to right. I'm tending towards front wishbone bearing - any idea if I'm warm I can't feel any play joggling the front though.

 

[Slipperyeel]

You'll need some of the more experienced members here to give thoughts but sounds like the steering brains to me. Not familiar with replacing the Beemer's but I can vouch for the fact badly assembled head bearings (actually most bearings) will die rapidly. Many many moons ago I found myself replacing my ST1100 steering bearings 18 months apart. The 3rd time around I paid attention instead of rushing (I've always needed my bike, only wheels I have). That 3rd set of bearings were never replaced, not by me anyway...

My message is, don't rule out the steering bearings, even if they were done relatively recently.








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[fatnfast]

I would get the front wheel of the ground and recheck just to rule out the tyre. Also check its not snagging on any cables as well.

If your totally happy with the steering bearings then it could be an issue with the telelever ball joint.

Check the ball joint boot for damage. Its under the telelever. If its split, then water may have got inside and rusted it. They are well greased from new though.

Although very unlikely, check the top nut on the ball joint is secure. Its torqued to something like 130Nm and has loctite as well (heat required to soften it). Use a good fitting spanner (21mm) with allen key. To retorque, I modified a 21mm socket to allow the allen key to sit inside the cutout to hold its position. Order a new nut, there not expensive and come ready loctited up.

To check the ball joint properly you need to at least remove the forks so you can isolate the brace and give it a good wiggle around. It should have no real play and be very smooth (top nut should be fitted correctly).

Hopefully you wont have to replace it as its screwed in pretty tight to the brace (230Nm IIRC). Heat and a good fitting 43mm (I think) ring spanner is needed, although I would be tempted to remove the brace and take it to Steptoe/bmw and let there rattle guns do the work. Or get a second hand one (ask them if the rear cable guide screws are not seized though).

Hopefully Ive jumped to far ahead and its something simple

 

[harry]

Are any cables snagging?

 

[Steptoe]

Did remember fit the spacer under the top yolk when you replaced the bearing...

 

[monkeyboy]

Did remember fit the spacer under the top yolk when you replaced the bearing...

Yep - think so. I've changed this a few times now so 'hopefully' I didn't forget that. I can't guarentee anything though with my old memory.

As for the others - I suspect the seal is fubar on the bearing. I remember seeing part of it hanging down at some point now I come to think about it. A lad on here gave me a new replacement seal to fit and I subsequently forgot After my last big ride it could well be full of dust and rust. I've just had to beat the rear caliper apart too as one of the slide rod rubber concertinas had split and the rod had rusted solid and seized the caliper. Luckily just a 10 minute job to replace the rods though.

I can't feel any movement through the forks grabbing them at the wheel either.

I've got some spare lower yokes so I think I'll get one blasted and coated and fit a new bearing. Can't hurt.

Thanks all

 

[Beebop]

Where the forks connect to the yoke, they mount into bushes, mine are worn and give this effect.
pop the covers off the top and turn left to right, you will see if there is play.

 

[monkeyboy]

Where the forks connect to the yoke, they mount into bushes, mine are worn and give this effect.
pop the covers off the top and turn left to right, you will see if there is play.

I'll take a look - thanks

 

[Slipperyeel]

If the rubber gaiter around the ball joint has gone I'd replace the whole thing, not just the gaiter. God knows how long it was broken before you noticed and how much it has corroded. And if you suspect it's the cause of the notchyness, then just get onto it. Straight forward job except for unscrewing that flippin ball joint from the yoke!

 

[monkeyboy]

If the rubber gaiter around the ball joint has gone I'd replace the whole thing, not just the gaiter. God knows how long it was broken before you noticed and how much it has corroded. And if you suspect it's the cause of the notchyness, then just get onto it. Straight forward job except for unscrewing that flippin ball joint from the yoke!

I'm going to. I'll just take it off, stick the big nut in a vice and twat the yoke with a hammer till it comes out I think the ball joint is more straight forward? 21mm spanner and a hex in the end. Famous last words

 

[Greg Masters]

Take it for an MoT

 

[monkeyboy]

Could anyone confirm if it's a 43mm nut please before I get a deep socket to remove it. I've got a spare yoke from an 1100S and the bearing is good (even though it's done 175k) but it hasn't got the mounting for the speedo cable so I'll just swap the bearing.

Also - I'm going to clean and repack the bearing - what grease? I've got tubs of LM and Moly - I'm presuming the LM would do.

Ta

 

[Slipperyeel]

The new balljoint I bought looked like it had silicone grease on it (this was a part from BMW). It was translucent, whitish colour. I was a tad surprised. I checked it before I fitted it in case the wasn't enough grease in there (so no, I didn't take it for granted!)

Not sure I'd have gone for a used part myself, but fingers crossed it all works out.

As for the nut, I thought you were going to put it in a vice? I didn't bother torquing mine up, just made sure it was fecking tight.

 

[fatnfast]

Could anyone confirm if it's a 43mm nut please before I get a deep socket to remove it. I've got a spare yoke from an 1100S and the bearing is good (even though it's done 175k) but it hasn't got the mounting for the speedo cable so I'll just swap the bearing.

Also - I'm going to clean and repack the bearing - what grease? I've got tubs of LM and Moly - I'm presuming the LM would do.

Ta

Its 46mm (my last post was relying on my memory ) for the ball joint to brace. It really is tight, use a heat gun to get it up to 'sizzle' temperature.

 

[monkeyboy]

Its 46mm (my last post was relying on my memory ) for the ball joint to brace. It really is tight, use a heat gun to get it up to 'sizzle' temperature.

Chears mate

I'll heat it up, put the nut in the vice and twat the yoke hard with a rubber hammer before investing in the 46mm - just to see

 

[monkeyboy]

Stripped the front down today - the ball joint is a bit stiff and the seal is fubar'd but I reckon it'll be fine if I repack it. I drained the fork oil as I'm going to get the ends powder coated. Look at the mess that came out! The 'brown' stuff came out one fork and the red out the other. Both sides ejected big lumps like runny dog poo too. Looks like sand has got in there.

 

[Tsiklonaut]

How those amounts of sand and dust could get in there without a massive seal leak is beyond me. Maybe your wifey has an unexpected mechanical skill to properly sabotage yer bike?

Check if your forks aren't polished out as well (noticably shinier surface spots), those crap clumps could be very abrasive.

 

[monkeyboy]

One of the seals was leaking but not that badly, or so I thought anyway. There was certainly loads and loads of oil still in the forks. I've had worse leaks in the past. Yes the fork is polished but when I withdrew the tube there was still the usual suction as though the seal was not completely screwed. I'll bung another seal in and see if it goes past the polished tube. Some of the sand in Kazakhstan was that superfine talcum powder stuff and it obviously got in. The bike really got severely twatted over the last trip.