Normandy, beaches, food and thoughts

[Jeremy]

Day 1:
We, Peter on a 1200GSA, Kevin on a 1300GS and me on a 12 G/S left a wet and windy Portsmouth for Caen on the 0800hrs Brittany Ferries earlier today, arriving into Caen at 1500hrs local time to sunshine. In stark contrast to my experience on the Liverpool Belfast ferry, this French ferry was in a class of it's own i.e. nothing was deep fried or micro waved. From the full Anglais breakfast to lunch, cleanliness, politeness of the staff, efficiency of the guys strapping down the bikes, it was excellent. Well worth the £81 return journey for the 6hr trip.

When I thought about posting a thread about the trip, I was initially excited about three mates riding through France enjoying company, history, food and wine with the odd twisty road. But, at our first stop at Pegasus Bridge, a few miles from the ferry terminal, I was immediately struck by the sacrifice of our brave boys, and girls, especially on June 6th 1944. Suddenly all the chat we had on the ferry about the trivial pursuits of live seemed irrelevant, almost disrespectful when compared to their sacrifice. It would be easy to write on but I will let the pictures do the talking.






This evening, we enjoyed true French cooking, wine and hospitality at Le Bouchon du Vaugaueux in Caen. We would all happily return to this restaurant and the Eur42 three course meal of terrine, pork chop and cheese was perfect. A must do if you are visiting Caen.

Peter, is however banned from ever booking a hotel for the group again. Yes, if you want budget, then the Eur75 B&B Caen Sud hard shoulder, petrol fumed, truck noise hotel, and I use the term loosely, is the spot. The noise of the traffic will at least blot out his inhuman snoring, It was a Eur20 Uber ride into town to Rue du Vaugeux.


Day 2 reports to follow.

Jeremy

 

[KickStarter]

Fantastic, enjoy!!


When visiting Omaha beach, if indeed you are, you must visit this place for the most wonderful Cidre,
Ferme de La SAPINIERE

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and for Lunch:

La Sapinière​

(Similar names but no relations to one another)

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Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[Jeremy]

Day 2:
We spent the morning at the Caen Memorial Museum and would recommend you allow 3hrs to get around it. It opens at 930am, has plenty of free parking.


Then we rode 21km from Caen to the Juno Beach Centre and walked 10mins to a lunch of seafood stew at Le Quai Est. The museum details the history of the Canadian forces in Normandy. By the time we left for a stroll on Juno beach, we all had tears in our eyes. You can't help but be staggered at the imagery and videos in the museum. Take a tissue or two.




Both museums took a toll so we headed to our AirBnB located a short walk from Bayeux. If you're planning a trip here on the bike or with the better half, I can strongly recommend this place as a venue to base yourself from. For four nights, it's Eur825. There's a LeClerc supermarket 2km from the AirBnB for everything you need.


A friendly local recommended Chateau Saint Gilles a few km from our stay. Great food especially with a Eur42 fixed price three course meal.

Jeremy

 

[Posh Pete]

Suddenly all the chat we had on the ferry about the trivial pursuits of live seemed irrelevant, almost disrespectful when compared to their sacrifice.

I completely understand your concerns about trivialising or even disrespecting the sacrifices of past generations. I used to lead WW1 battlefield tours and I sometimes wrestled with similar thoughts, especially when the teens on the bus were belting out "Tipperary" or the like and thoroughly enjoying the experience. I came to the conclusion that their antecedents of the WW1 generation were of a similar age and did exactly the same at the time. If they were "looking down" now, they would have shared in that pleasure and the sheer joy of youngsters enjoying the freedoms they fought for. That applies to us oldies too! Naturally, behaviour depends on the context and there were opportunities for quiet reflection and gratitude too. That'll be the same for you.

The point is that you are there in the first place. That's the important thing. Enjoy!

 

[Wapping]

I completely understand your concerns about trivialising or even disrespecting the sacrifices of past generations. …..

Exactly right.

There is no point or need to turn every visit into a funeral procession. Respect and decent behaviour (just as you should in any graveyard) yes. Anything else, no.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Exactly right.

There is no point or need to turn every visit into a funeral procession. Respect and decent behaviour (just as you should in any graveyard) yes. Anything else, no.

Agreed
Respectful and be interested - but they wouldn’t want their sacrifice to deter others from living a good life

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Keep the pics coming

 

[Jockser]

I do like a good Normandy ride report
The beaches, cemeteries & museums are certainly thought provoking
You didn’t visit Gonderee cafe while you were at Pegasus bridge ? I wonder is Madame G still hard at it
One thing I would definitely recommend is the 360 theatre on the hill above Arromanches

Looking forward to hearing how you got on touring on the R12G/S….

 

[Jeremy]

Day 3:
One of the benefits of our AirBnB is it's space and proximity to Bayeux. So, after a casual breakfast, we strolled into Bayeux to explore the Saturday Market at Place Saint Patrice. The temptation to replicate the TopGear mantra of buying a gift for each other almost worked until I saw Kevin eyeing up a turkey in a cage. There was no way that would strap onto the 12 G/S so we passed. It's well worth a visit.


The Bayeux Memorial Museum was a short stroll away and again is well worth a visit. Of the museums we've visited, they have the most extensive exhibition of equipment, weapons and vehicles from the Normandy landings.






More to follow.

 

[Jeremy]

Day 3 part two:
Across the road from the Bayeux Museum is the Bayeux Memorial where you can wander through the gravestones. We were struck by how young the soldiers were.



Next stop was the British Memorial on the coast. It's stunning and beautiful. If we could equip our soldiers as well as we can build memorials, the military would be in much better shape!



The wording on the next tribute to a fallen soldier should resonate with anyone who has or is still serving.


To contrast, we rode about 50km along the coast to the German military cemetery ay La Cambe. It's a subdued, solemn and almost anonymous memorial. Whereas at the British Memorial you could walk through the grave stones and read the names of the fallen several rows around where you where. In the German cemetary, the grave stones are laid flat.



Back to Bayeux to enjoy drinks at L'Epicurien and dinner at Acte 2. Both outstanding and dinner was, for the third night running, the Eur42 three course menu. If I have many more then my waist might hit 42.

And regarding the 12 G/S. It is the bike I want to ride when I arrive at my destination, but not the bike I want to ride to my destination. I miss my 1250GSA.

More to follow.