Oil changes

Captain Black

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Is it really worth changing the oils every twelve months if your only doing maybe a 1000/1500 miles ? :nenau
 
Yes it is.

I change ALL my oils every 3k, so at the moment im doing it virtually every fortnight :rolleyes:

If you use mineral engine oil its relatively cheap so its no biggie.
 
Morris v twin oil. They deliver to your door.

And yes it is worth changing your oil frequently. But you are opening a can of worms if you want a scientific reason why. I change mine annually in the bikes that are laid up. You could of course ride more to make it worthwhile.
 
I used to use my local motor factor's 20-50. £12 ish for 5l of SAE SJ spec oil. Now it seems impossible to get a litre for that price!
 
I change every 3,000 and filter every second change.Change every 12 months if the bike does less than 3,000. Stops the motor sludging up and collecting water. Cheap maintenance and I have achieved high mileage without problems.
 
It's not that I'm bitching about the cost, I know mineral oil is cheap. I was more thinking is it totally necessary when the miles aren't so high. I know modern cars with synthetic are recommended every two years now in a lot of cases, I do realise synthetic is a different ball game.
Rob, I do a few miles but its spread over too many toys.. :blast

I'd of thought if the bike /s are put away after a long run at at max temp, not started through the winter months condensation would not occur inside the engine anyway.
It's all subjective I suppose, unless there is a scientific proven reason ?
 
I'd of thought if the bike /s are put away after a long run at at max temp, not started through the winter months condensation would not occur inside the engine anyway.

Been involved in trials where we sampled the condition of oil in rarely run engines...it was always fine.
True, the engines generally had sump heaters but they also had a lot more breathers and vents than your bike.
Enough to convince me not to change mine on time alone.
I think a lot of oil changes have more to do with OCD than engineering.
I guess you pays your money and takes your choice.
 
Been involved in trials where we sampled the condition of oil in rarely run engines...it was always fine.
True, the engines generally had sump heaters but they also had a lot more breathers and vents than your bike.
Enough to convince me not to change mine on time alone.
I think a lot of oil changes have more to do with OCD than engineering.
I guess you pays your money and takes your choice.

I am leaning that way as well... It's oil FFS ?

It'll be just as oily when it comes out ... I've never seen any signs of water or moisture in my old engine oil.
I'm not trying to cut corners , but I'm not convinced every 12 months is needed unless conditions of use and milage is a factor.
 
Sorry to seem a bit of a tool, I have just bought my 100GS and the book I refered to said use 10/40 semi. But you boys use mineral 20/50. I notice motorworks sell both is the fact you use 20/50 because it is better, cheaper or what I should have put in.

Cheers Simon
 
Sorry to seem a bit of a tool, I have just bought my 100GS and the book I refered to said use 10/40 semi. But you boys use mineral 20/50. I notice motorworks sell both is the fact you use 20/50 because it is better, cheaper or what I should have put in.

Cheers Simon

20/50 mineral is good enough for these engines. The consensus is nothing that's very thin, and semi/synthetic oils are not necessary.
 
Cheers, that's a Yorkshire summer those temps.
 
That's a great link thanks very much. Don't have any bm manuals
 
I've just looked though all the original service docs for my bike. It was serviced by North Oxford motorcycles at 26k and they put 10/40 in. which may explain why the bottom end exploded :D
 


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