Oil Warning light at idle (Hot)

[Pukmeister]

Went out riding yesterday and got stuck in traffic at Alton town centre when I noticed my red warning triangle come on and the oil can icon flashing in the MFD.

The engine sounded sweet and a blip of the throttle cleared the warning (came straight on again though at idle). The oil temp was into the big fat part of the bargraph and the ambient was about 30 Celcius. I rode gently to SPC and when I got there the fault had cleared at idle due to airflow across the oil cooler removing the heat and thickening up the oil a bit. They said my oil pressure switch needs changing. The bike is in for its 24k service on Friday so some new oil may help matters ( I think I have 10W40 at the moment). I am out of warranty so will change the switch myself and save on labour.

Has anyone else come across this symptom on a hot R1200GS or am I the first (a site search was fruitless)??

 

[MIKA]

Due to the heat I would suggest 15w50 or 20w50 oil for that sort of temp would sort out the problem which is probably the oil working out of it's intended range.

 

[Taff]

I haven't got a 1200 but your symptons sound exactly the same as mine did.

Have a look at THIS THREAD but if its any consolation to you, its never happened to me before or since.

 

[gavin@iow]

The bike is in for its 24k service on Friday so some new oil may help matters ( I think I have 10W40 at the moment). I am out of warranty so will change the switch myself and save on labour.

I've not had that problem, but i changed from 10w40 to 20w50 as soon as i had the 1st (600mile) service, oil temp is always just in the 1st big segment.

 

[gsman1]

OIL LIGHT

I've not had that problem, but i changed from 10w40 to 20w50 as soon as i had the 1st (600mile) service, oil temp is always just in the 1st big segment.

I had this on 1150 it was caused by water on contact of oil pressure switch.

 

[Pukmeister]

I haven't got a 1200 but your symptons sound exactly the same as mine did.

Have a look at THIS THREAD but if its any consolation to you, its never happened to me before or since.

Thanks Taff, you've put my mind at rest. I think it will be fine on Friday once they change the oil for the thicker grade stuff.

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

Just to confirm what's already been said and keep your mind at rest I had the same last year in some very hot weather whilst stuck in traffic jams in Paris. That was whilst running 10/40 oil.

Since then I have used 20/50 (all year round) and have just got back from Fance at the weekend where I got caught in horrific traffic at one stage with the ambient temp around 37'C and the oil temp bar chart up to the half way marker.
No oil pressure warning and the engine sounded as sweet as a nut, as for the state of the rider though................................................

Andres

 

[Mouse]

As others have said, 10w/40 oil is only suitable for use in ambient temperatures up to 20C.

Changing the pressure switch should be easy, if you want to do it to be safe. I think the switch is located on the left hand side of the crankcase, just above the oil window. I haven't done it on a 1200, but on every other bike I've had to do this to (including a BMW 650), you just unscrew the old item and pop the new one in. Torque is 30Nm.

This diagram might help identify the part required.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0307&mospid=47823&btnr=61_1882&hg=61&fg=25

 

[sjwb]

Suspicious of the disinformation concerning ambient temperatures, I did some checking:
Both 10W/40 and 10W/50 are rated to +40 degrees celcius.
All this crap about using 20W/50 when the temperatures rise by 5 or 10 degrees is total rubbish.
If your oil warning light is on there is a very good reason for it and it almost certainly is NOT your grade of oil.

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

Suspicious of the disinformation concerning ambient temperatures, I did some checking:
Both 10W/40 and 10W/50 are rated to +40 degrees celcius.
All this crap about using 20W/50 when the temperatures rise by 5 or 10 degrees is total rubbish.
If your oil warning light is on there is a very good reason for it and it almost certainly is NOT your grade of oil.

So why then does BMW have a chart in the bikes handbook with reccomended grades of oil to use at particular ambient temps.

A 10/40 may well be rated up to 40'C but specifically reccomended by BMW (as per handbook) for use in the R series engine at temps over 25'C? [1] I think not.

So, before jumping in with your size 10's and telling everybody here that what's been posted is rubbish engage brain before putting digit to keyboard

BTW, you don't need to change to 20/50 as soon as the temp rises by 5 to 10 degrees. It's quite suitable for use all year round in the British climate.

Andres

[1] I don't have the handbook to hand so the 25'C may not be accurate - I'm sure somebody will be along to correct me if I'm wrong. It is however in that ball park.

 

[sjwb]

Touched a nerve there methinks.
Andres,
You made an unfounded statement and yet call me to book
At least my comments are in synch with API and I stand by the statement that changing oil grades because of minor ambient temperature changes in one location, is unwarranted.
The point was that, using 10W40 oil is not the reason for the original posters problem.

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

[1] I don't have the handbook to hand so the 25'C may not be accurate - I'm sure somebody will be along to correct me if I'm wrong. It is however in that ball park.

I do now, quoted ver batim:

The viscosity class depends on outside temperatures. Temperatures above or below the limits quoted for the individual SAE clasifications are permitted for brief periods only.

The 'quoted limits' are:

10/40 oil - minus 20'C to plus 20'C

15/40 oil - minus 15'C to plus 30'C

15/50 oil - minus 15'C to greater than 30'C

20/50 oil - minus 10'C to greater than 30'C

Andres

 

[gavin@iow]

All this crap about using 20W/50 when the temperatures rise by 5 or 10 degrees is total rubbish.

That's why i use 20w50 all rear round, as per the manual!

 

[Wapping]

That's why i use 20w50 all rear round, as per the manual!

SAE Viscosity Grade: 20W-50 Temperature Conditions: Above 20°
Descriptions: Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.

Spend long in the desert with your high performance, high-RPM, 1200GS or do you tow a caravan a lot?

The average annual air temperatures in the UK, at least here in the balmy south, sit nicely in the 5-20 degree band, 10-40 oil will do just fine. The oil doesn't mind dipping down to below the zero mark (not much prolonged riding when the air temperature during the day is stuck at zero anyway, I guess ) nor does it object too hard on those days when the mercury hovers at the 25 or 30 degrees mark at 3PM, which it can do for a day or two, followed by the inevitable thunderstorm

 

[gavin@iow]

SAE Viscosity Grade: 20W-50 Temperature Conditions: Above 20°
Descriptions: Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.

Spend long in the desert with your high performance, high-RPM, 1200GS or do you tow a caravan a lot?

The average annual air temperatures in the UK, at least here in the balmy south, sit nicely in the 5-20 degree band, 10-40 oil will do just fine. The oil doesn't mind dipping down to below the zero mark (not much prolonged riding when the air temperature during the day is stuck at zero anyway, I guess ) nor does it object too hard on those days when the mercury hovers at the 25 or 30 degrees mark at 3PM, which it can do for a day or two, followed by the inevitable thunderstorm

As i said in a previous post, 20w50 is just right!

 

[Pukmeister]

Easy fellas, no need to fall out over an oil warning light/viscosity issue.

Can't we all just get along ?

 

[Paul Mac]

I have been thinking about this issue myself lately and was wondering if anyone can recommend a good 20/50 oil as most oils that I see in this viscosity are cheap supermarket stuff - are they any semi synthetic 20/50 grades made??

 

[Wapping]

I have been thinking about this issue myself lately and was wondering if anyone can recommend a good 20/50 oil as most oils that I see in this viscosity are cheap supermarket stuff - are they any semi synthetic 20/50 grades made??

Castrol, along with all the major oil companies, make 20/50 and 40/10 both widely available in the UK.

Technical Specifications: SAE 10W-40 and 20W-50, API SG, JASO MA
Available in 1 litre and 4 litre packs.

Supermarket oils that meet basic standards will be fine too.

 

[Mouse]

I use Halfords 15w/50 which also meets the required spec (API SG etc). It's mineral oil though, whether you spend the extra on synth is a personal descision

 

[sjwb]

This should keep EVERYBODY happy
From the Q8 website.


Engine Oils
Q8 Super 10W-30
API SJ/CD VW 501.01 & 505.00

A mineral based 10w-30 viscosity oil designed specifically for engine manufacturers who require this type and quality of oil. Suitable for petrol and diesel engines.

Q8 Super 10W-40
API SG/CD . CCMC G4, PD2 VW 501.01 & 505.00 BMW Special oil

A high performance mineral based oil suitable for petrol and diesel engine, including those with turbos.

Q8 Super 15W-50
API SG/CF-4

A premium multigrade motor oil, recommended for naturally aspirated and turbo-charged petrol and diesel engined cars and commercial vehicles.