One month in Nepal

davidgibson999

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Right if I don't get this started I never will. So I guess this is me committed. A few of you have been nagging me to get a few photos up from our recent trip to Asia. We spent the full month of July in Nepal and had a whale of a time. Because it wasn't totally spent on two wheels I'll skip over the rest of it. Usually our summer holidays are spent in Europe and often touring on the bike but this year we wanted to go somewhere a bit different and do a bit of volunteer work while we're at it. A few hours with the help of google and we plumped for Nepal. Tibet was our first choice but it seems to be difficult to get in without a tour guide or as part of a larger group and neither option was very appealing.
So without any further blabbering here goes.
We arrived in Kathmandu on a heavily overcast afternoon. We hopped into a Tata 4x4 and were soon on our way into the suburbs. What can I say about the driving?? Anyone who's been to Asia will know what I'm talking about - I've read about it in travel books and seen it on video but nothing compares to the real deal. Quite something. We were amazed that after 4 weeks we didn't see a single collision. Probably that's got a lot to do with the overall speeds being so low. When we were on the bike we rarely got above 35/40mph...

Our first night or two was spent in a local's house just outside Thamel in the suburbs.
We were a bit jet lagged but headed off for a wander:

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It was super to get the chance to stay with the local people and avoid the hotel experience - walking through the busy streets, taking in the hustle and bustle was a real treat. My rucksack had got badly ripped by a disgruntled baggage handler somewhere between New Delhi and Kathmandu and I stopped by a young guy with an ancient sewing machine who soon had me sorted for 20p.
By the time we sauntered back to our hosts (after getting lost numerous times in the maze of back streets) I realised that Lynda's blonde hair was going to be quite an attraction to the locals. Was strange to be photographed as you walked along and I'm pretty damn sure they weren't snapping me :D
 
Looks similar to the part of Katmandu that I stayed in for a month a few years ago, loved just wandering around the place. After that I spent a month doing the annapurna circuit and going up into the sanctuary. Would love to go back again.

Looking forward to more of your report.
 
Hmmm. Nepalese wiring... Wonder what the Duke of Edinburgh would think and who he would offend first! Great pics though. Takes me back. More please.
 
Apologies for the delay in this - was away for a long weekend.
One of the first things we wanted to do was to get a bit of language training so we enrolled in a morning class but to be honest I was so tired and found it quite tough so I learned bugger all :D

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14433163" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14433163">P1010303</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

Quick wee video clip from a taxi on a not so crowded set of back streets:

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14432958" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14432958">P1010152</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

These little Suzuki taxis are king on the streets of Kathmandu - apparently very frugal (important given the frequent fuel shortages, the poor quality of fuel and the price of it - about 90ppl which is expensive given that 80% of the population lives on less than $2 per day) and reliable. Perhaps most importantly they're tiny and squeeze through the most unbelievable gaps amidst a fanfare of horns and upbeat music.
After our first fare we learned to haggle to try and lessen the gap between the tourist price and the local price.
After a night spent on a disgusting (I don't use the word lightly) mattress we nipped off at first light to get into the streets before the madness descended. Quickly realised that the Nepalese are early risers but it was still good to get out before the heat got worse.
We'd heard good stuff about Patan square so headed there to check it out. It's an ancient collection of temples and statues and also a meeting point for the locals. Foreigners pay to get in which is fair enough I guess. Had we had our volunteer cards with us we'd have gotten in free but we'd learn for the next time :blast
We hooked up with a young French couple and a 16yr old guy from Guam who seemed a bit out of his depth so we took him under our wing - he was travelling on his own for 2 months through Asia! Fair play to him...

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Really cool place to visit - the temples are still very much in use and there was one in particular we wanted to get into but as non-Hindus we couldn't.

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<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14433562" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14433562">P1010173</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14433706" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14433706">P1010190</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

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These street kids were most entertaining and equally entertained by us:

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14433827" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14433827">P1010225</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

They're big on flower garlands and eventually there'll be a fetching photo of me wearing a pink bunch but you'll have to wait for that laugh.
Saw this one round a pillar and liked the shot:

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To get back Lynda and I opted for a rickshaw ride, quite possibly the most uncomfortable form of transport I'd had the misfortune to experience to date. I say 'to date' because we'd yet to experience 3 hours on an elephant which is 10x worse...

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Shot from the back:

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Video from the rickshaw:

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14603071" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14603071">P1010241</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
 
Listed as one of the eight Cultural World Heritage sites by UNESCO, Kathmandu Durbar Square is a cluster of ancient temples, palaces, courtyards and streets that date back to the 12th and 18th centuries. The square is known to be the social, religious and urban focal point of the Capital City. The sights and smells are a real assault on the senses particularly on the edges of the square where the locals sit huddled under wooden frames cooking and chatting.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14603136" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14603136">P1010254</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

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All over Nepal, loads are carried on your back supported solely by a strap or a rope across your forehead.

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Being an electrician in Nepal must be a delightful occupation - imagine sorting out this lot:

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Towards the western end of the square is an ornate wooden building with incredible carvings covering the structure. In it is housed a young girl, selected at a young age to be the living representation of the goddess Kumari. For Hindus she is the reincarnation of the goddess Kali and she is equally revered by buddhists and hindus alike. We were amazed at how harmoniously the two religions co-exist, often having their temples next door to each other. The girl appears on a balcony once a day for as long as she likes; you cannot photograph her or meet her gaze. Once she hits puberty she and her family retire on a nice government pension and the selection process for her replacement begins again:

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nice one ye boy ye. good to see you at greenbelt too. maybe be up that way next week...:beerjug:
 
I think it's about time I stuck up the bit with the Royal Enfield. You're probably bored looking at temples and rickshaws. I'll show you more of that later if there's any interest :D

So after our time in the gurung village of Damdame we hiked back to Pokhara and went in search of a Royal Enfield. I found a cafe incorporating a motorcycle club called Hearts and Minds owned by an English guy and his Dutch missus. His Royal Enfields were heavily customised and he wasn't at all keen to have a pillion on one. Scrub that, he point blank refused to hire us one because "they're antiques and the terrain is tough on them". Ah well, back to the drawing board. For some reason I really wanted one and while a 175cc Yamaha Fazer or Honda Hero would have been the sensible option I hunted high and low. A passing kayak instructor and my trekking guide seemed to take on board the challenge and pointed me in the direction of Raju and his "Bullet Surgery"

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What a cool place - a greasy garage with peeling posters of ladies and racers with a Guns N Roses soundtrack blaring out of an ancient stereo.

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Raju is a legend and began his sales pitch along these plans:
"In Nepal there is no insurance, you break you fix. If puncture, don't phone me for I am not coming. If clutch cable snap your problem. Nepali drivers are all drunk and can't drive. Do you want it?"

So for so good :eek:

I told him I'd like to see it so after 45 minutes a sheepish man arrived on a real junker with a flat front tyre (that I took his word for it that it wasn't a puncture would later haunt me) and a smell of oil (he'd obviously slathered the chain with engine oil to make it look good).
I was offered a test drive, nodded sagely while Raju explained the start up procedure and kick started it in my flip flops (not easy).
Gear shift is on the right hand side, brake pedal is on the left ... This promised to be interesting.
Two minutes later complete with my pudding helmet, I stalled in front of a cafe in a 6 inch deep puddle because a cow stopped in front of me and instead of braking I changed up a gear! Doh! Needless to say, the locals were entertained as I struggled to remember Raju's instructions about engaging neutral and how to balance the amp meter with the compression lever...

Better luck the next day. Handed over the cash and arranged to pick it up in the morning:

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A few shots of "Henry"

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Can anyone identify what year it is? I can tell that it's old but that's about it :blast

Nice lid:

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We travelled light so with one backpack bungeed to the rear rack we wobbled off in pishing rain. Ist gear was a bitch, 2nd was fine, 3rd was a struggle and 4th a distant dream. We putt putted out of Pokhara onto the Sidhartha Highway, according to most locals we spoke to it's one of Nepal's finest roads for motorcycles. To be honest it probably doesn't have much competition...

Soon it dried up enough to get the camera out:

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14732147" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14732147">nepaltwo 183</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

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Surprisingly after an hour or two the swapped over gearshift and rear brake became less of an issue. The absolute lack of a front brake was more of an issue.

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<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14732338" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14732338">nepaltwo 191</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

I wanted to try it solo ... it was still shite.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14732338" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14732338">nepaltwo 191</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user4505431">davidgibson999</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
 


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