OOPS What have I dont - Wheel Building

DrAlf said:
You're probably better off buying a wheel from ebay - although black rims and stainless spokes from the Devon rim company do look great:thumb
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cant afford to buy a new rim. have hub off anyway so thats getting blasted today and re sprayed by my good self this week

then once get tyre off (not bead braker) i will hammer out the spoked and polise rim up.

very tempted to powderocat/anodise them black. but i do like the polised alu and need save cash

if bmw have do them in a jig ho do devon rim do them?
 
Ash said:
:aidan

BMW wheel making machine
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psssshhhh i have fancy blue gloves and jump suit too why cant i do it :D:D:D

then again that fancy jig is nice set up.

ah well part of the life when owening bikes. rim had to be taken apart as never going get it cleaned way it was
 
nick.ct said:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=556786

Any help? Somewhere in there he goes on about rebuilding Parlever wheels, also cross spoked. Post #65
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going check that out, getting busy today so dont have chance read through it in work

mate in work seems think be ok to do.

get the offset (something i had but cant find it now) and we can clamp them both on machine in work with run out dials on them and build it on the bed of the machine (of course this will be done on the late shift when all managers are gone home:aidan).

we did my f650 wheel and had it running true to 0.012" and taught ah best can do. i see woddys whels in states (from what seen on advrider hes the wheels guru) builds them to plus minus 0.040" so we did very well must say
 
john_aero said:
going check that out, getting busy today so dont have chance read through it in work

mate in work seems think be ok to do.

get the offset (something i had but cant find it now) and we can clamp them both on machine in work with run out dials on them and build it on the bed of the machine (of course this will be done on the late shift when all managers are gone home:aidan).

we did my f650 wheel and had it running true to 0.012" and taught ah best can do. i see woddys whels in states (from what seen on advrider hes the wheels guru) builds them to plus minus 0.040" so we did very well must say
Click to expand...

Excellent.
Take pictures :thumb
 
MattW said:
Excellent.
Take pictures :thumb
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hope to get hun blasted today. paint it tonight with hammerite smooth and then go from there.

have try get wheel off. anyone got tips to remove wheel by hand. take note bike stand cant be used as its only got 1 wheel on it

if this works i will do front wheel also but something tells me going fall flat on face.

but hey i enjoy a challenge.

trouble in work regarding the volume of NIXERS being done may cause hassel but lets hope not
 
Ok have found a rear for 120 euro. Abs model but the number stamped on side is 2320 007

Is this same as gs wheel? Just in work and want to buy it is its clean and doesn’t have pitting.

Then can build my own rim at my own leisure over time
 
john_aero said:
Ok have found a rear for 120 euro. Abs model but the number stamped on side is 2320 007

Is this same as gs wheel? Just in work and want to buy it is its clean and doesn’t have pitting.

Then can build my own rim at my own leisure over time
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I think (though I am ready to be proven wrong) that all the wheels are the same. If your bike is non ABS just unbolt the ABS ring off the replacement wheel.
 
Jonnie Boy said:
Oooo errm........... good luck john aero! :)
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hub running in around 0.006" max flatness

as long as rim not over buckled which i dotn think it is, then will go as follows

1 - set rim on machine in a FREE STATE position

2 - build hub into wheel with spokes as they are all same lenght so offset is semi pre determined.

3 - find exact offset measurement i lost (if anyone has wheel off and want to check the drop height for me be great.)

4 - run 2 dials on hub and 2 dials on rim,

5 - with table slowly turning measure the true position of the hub and rim

6 - if all ok then tighten opposite spokes keeping eye on position and off set.

7 - flip over and do same on tother side.

sounds complicated? well we (we as in my machinist) do this every day on aircraft parts so he is very confident that if we get 2 hours free with no interuptions can easily get it all together
 
1 - set rim on machine in a FREE STATE position

2 - build hub into wheel with spokes as they are all same lenght so offset is semi pre determined.

3 - find exact offset measurement i lost (if anyone has wheel off and want to check the drop height for me be great.)

4 - run 2 dials on hub and 2 dials on rim,

5 - with table slowly turning measure the true position of the hub and rim

6 - if all ok then tighten opposite spokes keeping eye on position and off set.

7 - flip over and do same on tother side.

sounds complicated? well we (we as in my machinist) do this every day on aircraft parts so he is very confident that if we get 2 hours free with no interuptions can easily get it all together
Click to expand...

You're on the right track here. Ignore the naysayers - it can be done, I've straightened the front wheel on my 1150GS.

I found it very important to get the wheel as aligned as possible both axially and radially with as little tension as possible in the spokes. Once the spokes are any more than snug, you won't pull out any distortion by tightening the spokes differentially - you'll just make it worse and have to start over again. If you start with a true rim you should get a result by taking up the tension on all spokes little by little till they're all just about snug, keeping spinning and clocking the wheel each time you tighten the spokes. Once they're all snug and the wheel is true then tighten by no more than 1/4 turn at a time, all the spokes in order around the wheel, one side then the other to progressively put more tension into the wheel.

I found at the end I had rather a lot of tension in the spokes - more than was in the back wheel. Over the first 100 miles it all settled down and the front spokes are about the same as the back now. It is important to check it after a few rides to see that everything is loosening up evenly and adjust if necessary.

If you've still got the tyre on then remove it and the discs before you go any further - its much easier when you've got a bare wheel. If it starts to go out of alignment then loosen off and start again. It took me three goes before I was happy with it, but now the front end wobble that was there when I bought the bike has gone completely.

Mark
 
that is what i taugth

to be honest seems be more timeand patience than anything else now

getting spare set wheels from breakers for 200 euro

so can have bike and play around with the wheels



ducatiparts.110mb said:
You're on the right track here. Ignore the naysayers - it can be done, I've straightened the front wheel on my 1150GS.

I found it very important to get the wheel as aligned as possible both axially and radially with as little tension as possible in the spokes. Once the spokes are any more than snug, you won't pull out any distortion by tightening the spokes differentially - you'll just make it worse and have to start over again. If you start with a true rim you should get a result by taking up the tension on all spokes little by little till they're all just about snug, keeping spinning and clocking the wheel each time you tighten the spokes. Once they're all snug and the wheel is true then tighten by no more than 1/4 turn at a time, all the spokes in order around the wheel, one side then the other to progressively put more tension into the wheel.

I found at the end I had rather a lot of tension in the spokes - more than was in the back wheel. Over the first 100 miles it all settled down and the front spokes are about the same as the back now. It is important to check it after a few rides to see that everything is loosening up evenly and adjust if necessary.

If you've still got the tyre on then remove it and the discs before you go any further - its much easier when you've got a bare wheel. If it starts to go out of alignment then loosen off and start again. It took me three goes before I was happy with it, but now the front end wobble that was there when I bought the bike has gone completely.

Mark
Click to expand...
 
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