Paralever adjustment.

[Jiffy176]

Had a quick check of the rear wheel upon returning from a ride yesterday and note slight movement when rocking the wheel at 12 and 6 and minimal at 3 and 9. Also the same with brake applied.

Heat gun on order and I'm going to have a go at adjustment first. Which is the best way. Heat remove clean retorque and ride or heat slacken, adjust to remove play and then retorque 30mm nut.
Couldn't find a good guide to adjustment.

Thanks.

 

[NeilDD]

Remove USE HEAT or you'll strp the threads in the swing arm
Clean with Acetone (nail varnish remover)
Lube taper rollers
Refit (8Nm for pin IIRC)
Torque up big nut

 

[Jiffy176]

Thanku what is the best grease for lubing?

 

[Jiffy176]

Cancel just found one of Neil's posts which explains thinks in four or five easy steps.
Nice!

 

[Bendy toy]

The other day I was looking at the final drive (FD) bearing problem threads. As I understood it, one theory for the bearings failing is worn paralever bearings allowing the FD to rock laterally.

Typical, I cant find the thread I wanted but its worth a quick trawl through the final drive threads.

Edit: Found it:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317122&page=2

I personally don't get why bike makers insist on using needle rollers in joints that oscillate only a few degrees. The same few rollers get all the load/wear and the grease gets rubbed away. No surprise they fail. Greased bronze bushes might be old hat, but they are ideal for such jobs and (unlike roller bearings) can be easily re-greased with a grease gun.

 

[Jiffy176]

Yesterday I managed to remove the locking nut and paralever pin.
I could feel the bearing and on circulating it there feels one rough point. The pin was in good condition. I cleaned all the loctite off and as I tightened up it sounded graunchy.
I also tried re torquing and at 7nm there was still play on the wheel when going tighter it removed the play but I guess that's not the idea.

So it looks like I need to replace these. I've seen the guide on adv rider can anyone who has done this give and advice.
Is it a case of basically remove final drive use socket to knock old bearings out.
Remove new ones from freezer insert using a socket as a drift and then reinstall?

This will probably become obvious when I see it but when inserting new bearings do they get pushed in as far as they will go?
Thanks.

 

[MattW]

Yesterday I managed to remove the locking nut and paralever pin.
I could feel the bearing and on circulating it there feels one rough point. The pin was in good condition. I cleaned all the loctite off and as I tightened up it sounded graunchy.
I also tried re torquing and at 7nm there was still play on the wheel when going tighter it removed the play but I guess that's not the idea.

So it looks like I need to replace these. I've seen the guide on adv rider can anyone who has done this give and advice.
Is it a case of basically remove final drive use socket to knock old bearings out.
Remove new ones from freezer insert using a socket as a drift and then reinstall?

This will probably become obvious when I see it but when inserting new bearings do they get pushed in as far as they will go?
Thanks.

That's more or less it.

To drift the old bearings out, you'll have to fit a socket to an extension 'inside' the swingarm. A bit of heat on the swingarm will help (stops you having to beat the crap out of the old bearing ) and the same goes for reinstalling the new bearing (or freeze the new bearing as you suggest).

And yes, the bearings sit in a shouldered housing, so you'll know when they're home.

As you've discovered, once the bearings are worn and brinnelled, there's no point trying to adjust them - fit new bearings but don't bother with loctite and make regular adjustment a part of your maintenance regime.

 

[B4ndit]

That's more or less it.

fit new bearings but don't bother with loctite and make regular adjustment a part of your maintenance regime.

What he says.

 

[Jiffy176]

When I tried tightening the the lock nut with the torque wrench it also tightened the bearing. Looks like I may be using the adjustable spanner that I used to undo along with my hex to hold in place.

Tim, Bandit the adv rider write up says insert outer bearings and rollers and then slide the inners after. Is this right or just ease the bearing in whole?

Tbh my biggest concern is phasing the fd back up more than anything else.
Jiff.

 

[MattW]

When I tried tightening the the lock nut with the torque wrench it also tightened the bearing. Looks like I may be using the adjustable spanner that I used to undo along with my hex to hold in place.

That's the way.
If you don't have the 'special tool' (search on eBay for paralever tool), then you'll need to hold the adjustable pinion while you tighten the locknut. Use your ring spanner and whatever tool you used on the hex of the adjustable pinion - once you've got some torque on the locknut, the adjustable pinion shouldn't move but use marker pen witness marks to be sure. As you aren't using loctite Use the same sort of witness marks on the locknut to make sure it doesn't move in the future.

 

[Jiffy176]

Thanks Matt. Did you torque it or just do it up flippin tight and use witness marks?
Ta.

 

[MattW]

Thanks Matt. Did you torque it or just do it up flippin tight and use witness marks?
Ta.

I got the locknut tightish (special engineering term ) with a ring spanner and then switched to a torque wrench and socket for the final torque. That said, when you've done it once and have a feel for the right torque you'll probably be happy to do it by feel.

 

[B4ndit]

Done by feel for me. Nm rating is so low a little extra twist if loose does the trick.

 

[MattW]

Done by feel for me. Nm rating is so low a little extra twist if loose does the trick.

If we're talking about the adjustable pinion, then I did tend to use a torque wrench (a little 1/4" drive one that goes down to 4 Nm). Once you've done it a few times then the feel for such a low torque will become easier to judge but I wanted the security blanket at first ). I'd happily do it by feel now but having bought the torque wrench, I'd probably still use it.

However you're tightening it, the important thing with the adjustable pinion is to make sure it's properly bedded - ever so slightly over do the torque, rotate the FD up and down a few times, back it off and then finally set the adjuster.