Parts for 1150 throttle cable replacement

[Finbarr]

Hi there - having read the excellent article here in the "font of all wisdom" about replacing the cables, I ordered these from MotorWorks this morning.

In amongst the four cables and Bowden box described in the article, they're also supplying a "throttle cable repair kit", but are unable to explain exactly what this is or why it's needed, other than "you need this".
They seem to think it may be some kind of adaptor as the cable design changed at some point and this allows use of the new cable type (maybe).

Can anyone shed any light on what this particular item is?

Kind regards,
Fin.

[Edit:] They're £16 each. Total cost of all cables + splitter box was £114.
My labour for several hours: Priceless!

 

[niko]

the old cable was straight at the bar end with the bend bit built in to the bar (in the guide on here you can see the wire running round it)
the new cable is bent ,you take the bent cable guide off the bars and replace with this repair kit

 

[Dazlove]

Hi
I can concur with Niko, the end of the cable has changed so the new parts allow this new design to be fitted to the twist grip.

It is self evident once you get the parts in your hand.

I have just done this myself, replacing all 4 cables and the throttle action is now very smooth.

FYI, I have a 2002 1150GS, and had to replace the 'choke' lever assembly at the same time as the small screw holding the lever in had corroded away, preventing me from removing the cable.

If you are to change all 4 cables yourself,it might be worth getting the lever assembly as well, it was not very expensive, just in case you have the same problem.

Good luck

Regards

Dazlove

 

[Finbarr]

Many thanks guys - that's clear.
I'm going to attack this over the Easter break - I'll let you know how I get on.

Kind regards,
Fin.

 

[Finbarr]

Phew! just finished.
A couple of points for those looking to do this job in the future - there are a couple of 'helpful tips' that I wish I had known before starting this job!

1. Don't assemble anything until the splitter box is about to go in to the bike.
2. Disconnect the oil breather pipe on the RHS of the bike and bend it out of the way - then jubilee clip it back on when you're done.
3. The shorter of the two smaller cables goes on the RHS.
4. You need to remove the mirror stalk to get at the final screw holding the switchgear in place to fit the new "repair kit". This new part requires a bit of wriggling to get into position. You can cut off the old throttle cable guide, the new repair kit parts fit over the bar and don't need to slide on. Heated grips don't need to be disconnected or removed.
5. Removing the cable from the fast idle switch requires you to undo a small screw in a recessed hole when the fast idle lever is in the fully forward (off) position. - Then life becomes easy! I disassembled the switch block so I could see what was going on before I found this elusive screw!
6. Take your time and this job should be comfortably done in four hours or so. I faffed about and undid a lot of bits on the handle bars that I didn't need to and got it all done in four and a half hours.
7. Everything comes apart with a very gentle push or pull. If you're fighting to get something to move, then you've missed a screw or two!
8. Take a bit of time and care when adjusting the throttle cables at the throttle body ends. Do the left one first and set the adjuster so that the rotating wheel attached to the cable is fully closed with the throttle cable at rest. Rolling the throttle on just a titch should start to see the cable make the this wheel (what is that part called?) rotate. Then do the RHS. If your careful and take your time, you should get everything setup such that your TB's don't need to be re-synced.

At the end, I let the engine idle for five minutes or so, shut it down, attached a TwinMax, zeroed it, and checked the TB sync. Everything was spot on - no adjustment necessary.

Keep in mind that over the next few thousand miles or so, the new cables will stretch a bit and your TB sync may go haywire - check them every 750 miles or so until they stop wandering off.

I'm going to put my feet up now and gloat about all the money I saved not taking this to the dealer to be done!

Kind regards,
Fin.

 

[Mzokk]

When I did this job I removed the battery cage as it needed painting (Non abs 2002 model). I recon it made the job much easier when putting it all back together.

 

[Finbarr]

When I did this job I removed the battery cage as it needed painting (Non abs 2002 model). I recon it made the job much easier when putting it all back together.

Strangely, getting the Bowden box in and out wasn't that much drama. I'm sure the bulk of the time was taken in dealing with the handle bar bits - they were both quite awkward. The throttle side because of the repair kit and the fast idle bit because I didn't know about the magic screw and had to disassemble everything to find it!

Still, it's done now. Bike feels much more responsive - lighter throttle will do that I guess.

 

[Colban]

Quick question or two...how many miles had the bike done?.
BWM reccommend changing these cables every 18K (yeah,right at over 100 quid a pop) but my old girl has now done 72K miles so i guess deserves a treat.
Was there any damage/fraying to the old cables?.

 

[Mzokk]

My old cables looked fine at 40k and I have kept them just in case. but the improvement in throttle action was tremendous. Since fitting them TB balance hasn't drifted much check balance again at 42K and it only needed a wee tweek

 

[Finbarr]

Colban,
My bike has done 74,500 miles (mine since new) and the reason I decided to do it was because I found a small frayed strand on the LHS cable just under the adjustment screw.

When I got the whole thing out and looked more closely, the cable at rest appeared fine, but if I pulled it a little bit then a large section of additional fraying was exposed. I think there were only about four or five strands left intact. There wasn't any sharp sticky-out-bits - just worn out to the point of worn away. Pretty scary if it had given way on the motorway (which I do daily) at 70MPH - one pot at 5000RPM and the other suddenly at idle.

I can't begin to imagine what that would feel or sound like, but I'm sure it wouldn't be pleasant.

The bike is more responsive now - and it seems to have gained an additional 10~20MPH in top end. I guess the knackered cable was restricting things pretty badly, but I'd gotten used to it over the years.

I do recommend you replace them - it isn't hard and you don't need any special tools.

Kind regards,
Fin.

 

[Colban]

Fin...much obliged.Looks like a new set of cables on the old girl would be a wise move.