Picked up my GS today

[brucewayne]

R1100GS - 1997 black, 39,000 mls, Remus can, poor cosmetic condition, but mechanically good (I hope).


Well it's the first GS I've ever ridden...I got on it in Kent and rode it straight back up to Norfolk (120 miles) through the worst rain that Essex had to offer, and only 1 false neutral.

It's the beginning of a new relationship for me (while I two time my Blackbird) but I enjoyed every wet moment...!

One question/concern I do have: the guy who sold it to me said he had spent £300 having the main dealer rebuild the rear end pivots and they now need "adjusting"? Special tool involved?

I've got a Haynes manual, but it doesn't seem to mention "adjustment" of these pivot bearings?

Is this a dealer job....considering that I got the bike for £2,100 and intend on doing as much of the servicing as possible myself.

 

[Tsiklonaut]

Congrats with the new bike - a proper choice!


Pivot bolts - it's covered in the Haynes manual as fixing the pivot bolts - adjustment is the same. If your rear wheel has a noticable freeplay, then yes they need adjustment.

The "adjustment" is the following:

1) Release the contra nut on the l/h side paralever bolt (if you have the correct tool, if you're experienced enough can do it w/o taking the wheel off (from between the spokes), otherwise, take the rear wheel off).

2) Screw out the rest of l/h bolt (PS: some old Locktite glue maybe maybe left into the thread - so first screw it forward/back with small amplitude and getting bigger, you should feel the glue get's cracked, if it moves freely enough screw the bolt out fully)

3) Now clean the threads from old Locktite, so on retightening you can "feel" or measure the Newton metres correctly.

4) Put the bolt back on and small 5Nm of torque for the adjustable pivot and 105Nm torque for the contra-nut. And you're done.

BMW and Haynes recommends to Locktite the threads on point 4) (then you have less than a minute to screw the bold in with the correct 5Nm spec, otherwise the glue will harden and you'll get "false reading"). I use medium-hard Locktite myself, and just put it slightly on the threads. With hard locktite it's pain in the a*se to get 'em open.

If you get the job done correcly there should be no freeplay if you move the rear wheel in perpendicular-to-moving direction forward/back.

Hope this helps.

Margus

 

[brucewayne]

thanks Margus, will give that a try.

 

[ciderman gs]

welcometo the fold

 

[davegs]

1100

Welcome to the land of sanity, good buy only just run in, get yourself a
Clymer manual much more useful than Haynes. Now get out there and ride it.
dave gs.

 

[nunesaf]

R1100GS - 1997 black, 39,000 mls, Remus can, poor cosmetic condition, but mechanically good (I hope).


Well it's the first GS I've ever ridden...I got on it in Kent and rode it straight back up to Norfolk (120 miles) through the worst rain that Essex had to offer, and only 1 false neutral.

It's the beginning of a new relationship for me (while I two time my Blackbird) but I enjoyed every wet moment...!

One question/concern I do have: the guy who sold it to me said he had spent £300 having the main dealer rebuild the rear end pivots and they now need "adjusting"? Special tool involved?

I've got a Haynes manual, but it doesn't seem to mention "adjustment" of these pivot bearings?

Is this a dealer job....considering that I got the bike for £2,100 and intend on doing as much of the servicing as possible myself.

Congrats, you will love the bike! And this forum is full of nice and helpful chaps, you will do just fine.

So was I caught early this morning in that rain in Essex... blimey, never rode for so long under so much rain! My GS behaved beautifully in the rain and realised that though driving slow, not many cars overtook me because there was too much water on the pavement (a chap on the A12 overtook me on his fabulous GSA at a very high speed )

Cheers