Please help, hi reving r1150gs

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Hi guys.

I know i'm probably going to get shouted at, and i've spent last hour searching and trying to understand it but i'm getting really stresseed out, so can someone please keep it simple and help me out???

My Adv has been running idle at more than 1700 rpm for some time, the fast throttle cable making no differance. anyway, today decided to replace all the cables today incase it had stuck, but no differance.

Bike revs at 1600 rpm from cold.

all cables have slack in them, can't see any air leaks, even fitted new covers on the vacumes I even turned the brass idle screws all the way in on both throttle bodies and still revs don't drop.

Havn't adjusted tps (becasue basically not sure exactly how to) but have noticed bare wire running from it (brown)

Son please any ideas
 
Mine idled too fast, although not as fast as yours. Steptoe was doing some servicing for me, he spotted a bit of gravel wedged in the throttle stop cam assy. Worth a poke about.
 
Been doing some more reading on here (Brain hurting now) and going to have to wait for a bit.

Garage told me before my cables had stretched which is why I changed them today, but what didn't help is the new throtle cable is the new style (with an L shaped tube) which doesn't fit my throttle as they didn't supply the adapter, so currently it's cable tied in place, which means there is a lot of throttle play at the moment, and if im right going to have problems anyway till cables are set correctly which can't do until this cable sorted...

saying that surly with the slack in the cables and brass screws on both throttle bodies screwed all the way in the bike will have trouble ticking over in the 1st place???????
 
You say you can't see any leaks, you won't as it's a vacume.

Have you tried spraying water (or wd40 but it's messy) around the throttle bodies and intake tubes?

If the revs drop, you have found the leak :beerjug:
 
saying that surly with the slack in the cables and brass screws on both throttle bodies screwed all the way in the bike will have trouble ticking over in the 1st place???????

Unless something is keeping one of the butterflies open (ie the bit of gravel referred to above, or some internal fault)...

Mike
 
Unless something is keeping one of the butterflies open (ie the bit of gravel referred to above, or some internal fault)...

Mike

:thumb2 +1

Or an air leak is making them irrelevant. If its high milage it could be worn butterfly shafts.
 
LOL, know about the displaced outer cable, 1st thing I checked for so not that

How can I tell if a butterfly is stuck open? where would the grit likly to be?

Bike's done about 90k, so reasonable amount of mileage

I'll try the wd40 trick in the morning see what that does
 
LOL, know about the displaced outer cable, 1st thing I checked for so not that

How can I tell if a butterfly is stuck open? where would the grit likly to be?

Bike's done about 90k, so reasonable amount of mileage

I'll try the wd40 trick in the morning see what that does

Get a detergent spray (non aerosol) less mess.
 
LOL, know about the displaced outer cable, 1st thing I checked for so not that

How can I tell if a butterfly is stuck open? where would the grit likly to be?

Bike's done about 90k, so reasonable amount of mileage

I'll try the wd40 trick in the morning see what that does

Whip off your throttle bodies and have a look inside and see what the score is. You don't have to disconnect the cables but you do if you find they're very mucky inside.

The air intake side on mine were very gummed up with an oily deposit lining the internals, on both sides of the butterfly valve. You may also notice that your air bypass is getting blocked up as well. You may also want to have a look at your injector spread (no smoking :rob).
 
How can I tell if a butterfly is stuck open? where would the grit likly to be?

Look behind each throttle body and check the throttle stop arm is against the throttle stop.

Also open the butterfly with your finger and let it snap back, and you should hear it hitting the stop.
 
well, did the water sprey test.... made no differance,

Took the throtle body off to look inside, and although bit of oil around the air intakes the inside's were clean as could be, but I did notice that the butterfly didn't shut all the way on the left, so did adjust the stop, which was probably not a good move, also the rubber "O" ring around the throttle body on the right hand side had stretch so now can't the air intake hasn't seated properly becase the "O" ring wont sit right.

AHHHH.... now not balancing at all
 
Just taken off the left TB and adjusted the stop so that I can just see a gap as it was before I started "Fiddling" and put back together as well as slacken the throttle cables off all the way on both sides.

they still not balanced at tick over of about 1400 still, sprey water and detergent over TB and inlet pipes and made no differance so hopefully that mean's no air getting in (or I'm doing it wrong), but at about 2500 and 3500 rpm throttles are balanced, so I'm thinking I'm back were I started and that might be a good time to stop as it's my only form of transport, and look at getting someone who knows what they are doing take a look..... :confused:

Oh I miss the days of straight forward carbs....
 
Did you replace the fast tickover cable? could there be a problem with that? mine jams every so often and it takes a few seconds to slow the revs down.
 
Yes replaced the fast tick over cable as thought that this might have been my problem so followed the instruction on here and changed all the cables and splitter (although garage didn't supply the part to fit the new type throttle cable, so held in place with cable tie)
Can adjust the Fast idle so I can here that it's just pulling so I know it's not stuck.

But have all the cables slack so it's idling on the stops only

saying that the responce is much better now with new cables so that's one bit of good news
 
Have you changed the exhaust recently or put a free-er moving end can?
When I changed the cat for a y-piece and remus my idle fuelling would sit high (even with the brass screws wound in).

Steppers sorted it out when he had a fiddle with my knobs.
 
exhaust and "Y" piece fitted for years, got to be something electrical or throttle boddies them selves,

all cables slack and even the brass screws wound all the way in, except right which wound out a half turn just to balance it.
 
After a good run, bike idles at 900 rev's cold and when fully warmed up idles at 1500 so looking on the bright side it has improved, and boy throttle responce is better with the cables, so all in all bit happier :)
 
Okay, I suspect I may have been here until recently.

What I'd like to know is can you stop for a burger and coffee after at least half an hours stop 'n' go riding and then start the bike and find your idle speed to be erratic for a couple of minutes or so?

I had a temperature related problem but did not find the specific component which cured the fault. I replaced both throttle bodies, injectors and the fuel pressure regulator with second hand parts and now have mostly stable idle engine speed.

What I do know is that replacing the O-rings and cleaning your throttle body airway bypass tubes is worth doing because my originals were well filthy. Do check your injector spray pattern as well, if just to satisfy yourself that they look about okay. Pull one out and attempt to start the bike (I didn't let it fire-up though) and point the injector at a wall and see if the spray looks about equal all round. Then do the other side. There are injector cleaning websites that explain some of the fundamentals to how these things are supposed to perform.

I'm currently working on my orignal throttle bodies and will report back when I'm happy that they are completely clean and ready for reinstallation. I will then spend some time try to isolate the faulty component.

BTW. Be careful with the butterfly screws because they can easily cross thread the shaft. DAMHIKT. :blast
 


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