Power piston kit

fayeslane

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Has anyone fitted one of these - any good?

http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfinal.php?q=pistons

50298 POWER PISTON KIT. Transform your 1000cc Twin's performance with Omega racing pistons.

Add 15% more power and 12% more torque by this simple replacement of pistons. These racing pistons are forged and then machined out of racing alloy. The increased power and torque is available improved use of the squish band. They are easy to fit, all extra parts needed are supplied, comprising of 1 x top end gasket kit. The racing pistons come with rings and wrist pin. Please see the graphs of torque and power for performance
 
the pistons were developed by me with omega they are the best things on the market apart from the better kit that i have that motobins has no interest in ask any questions you like i will answer
 
G'day Richie

How significant is the performance increase with the pistons? Any other mods or adjustments (tuning) needed when fitting the pistons?

Interested in details of your better kit.
 
the pistons make another 2 hp with my air filter kit and require one size up on the main jet to 158 and down one on the needle but only when you use the filter the other kit has shorter pistons and a 15 mm longer conrod that takes you to 64hp at the wheel
 
the performance gains are very significant they were made to fit the later 1000 heads the valve pockets are for 46mm inlet 40mm exhaust with enough depth to run any cam
 
Hi Guys

I have the part No. 50292 which is the lightweight pistons, gudgeons and barrels all fitted and working

The purple peril as it stands currently beats BamBams Big Red by 1BHP (aka mine produces 56BHP at the back wheel). This is all interseting as Iam still running the original silencer with Keihan stainless steel two into two downpipe set and Y-Piece (BamBam runs the same pipes with the HPN Baja silencer http://www.hpn.de/bilder/kleinebilder/auspuff.jpg)
IMG_0990.jpg


The biggest difference is the speed of rev changes. When you open the throttle the power comes on-line a lot quicker than standard pistons and of course it slows a lot quicker too.

I also have the low 1st gear fitted so I can now go slower than walking pace on the flat, without the need for slipping the clutch and for mountain descents, it is the easiest manoeuvre in the world.

Hope this helps :rob
 
hi lilith the pistons you have are the siebenrock type not my omegas. if you had used the omega you would have another 2-3 hp and saved yourself some money
 
Richie, you mention your air filter kit - do you have a site where your bits and kits can be purchased.?

Moteren Israel sell Wossner pistons which look a bit like the Siebenrock items , but they dont have the same shape in the squish band area - any comments on them.

The factory instructions for fitting a 336 cam detail a minimum head / piston clearance over two mm, but Siebenrock talk of better use of the squish band, which suggests something closer.
Without giving away any trade secrets what is your preference?
And what is your preference for honing nicasil or similar barrels and the best rings for them - I cant seem to find anything authoritative anywhere.

How much power did you get with the longer rods - I have a long one in my B44VS but I never ran it with the OEM rod.
 
hi beemerboff my website is www.moorespeed.co.uk use the email address from holding page. omega make the pistons for stoners ducati and the works ktm;s .18 months of development and 10;s of thousands of pounds thats why i know thay will beat the wossner-siebencock and they are a better alloy. piston clearance 1.5-2.0mm will be fine .silicon carbide for nicasil
 
Hi Richie, I have a question regarding engine balancing after changing pistons. Do you have your engines balanced. ? I have an R80GS and had a Siebenrock 1000 kit installed. It wasn't as smooth as the 800 and had more vibes from 2000-3500rpm and started to smooth out over that. I went back to 800cc tracking down oil consumption woes (valve guides, even though they were new and in the middle of BMW spec clearance) and am a bit reluctant to refit the kit unless I can make it smoother. I have spoken to an engine balancer here in NZ, and was told that Beemer engines are balanced with pistons and rods, therefore the lighter Seibenrock, or any other lighter pistons or rods would throw the balance out of whack. I could leave it as 800cc but enjoyed the extra power of the 1000. ( usually 2 up )
I'm not sure how much extra power could be got from an 800, without getting silly !!
Cheers Phil
 
hi phil . yes i do have my engines balanced. they are very bad standard 800 or 1000 if yours is smooth you are just lucky. the kit you have i take it is the 800 to 1000 still using the 800 heads the combustion on these is very poor i think they made them to make money not power on average they only make 2 hp more than 800 . my advice is to either take it for what it is a bit viby or sell it an do it properley with proper pistons 1000 heads and balanced.cant see the point in tuning an 800 when you can make it a 1000 and make another 10 hp
 
Thanks Richie, Would or could the pistons you have be compatable with my Seibenrock barrells as his would be far cheaper than buying 1000cc BMW ones.
The Seibenrock barrels are a "smidgen" smaller than the 1000cc BMW barrels. We measured them at 93.960mm. BMW quote 3 sizes, the B size being 93.998mm
The combustion chamber in my heads could easily be modified to match the chamber of a 1000cc head. I'm not worried about the valves or carbs as i'm not after a big top end horsepower motor, rather one that makes good power/toque in the rpm range that I ride in, which is 1500-5000rpm, occasionally out past 6000 when the need or urge requires. My engine is twin plugged which was done to stop "pinging " with the Seibenrock kit.
Cheers Phil
 
hi phil i am looking at this problem at the moment. i am trying to hone 0.0015 out of a pair of siebencock cylinders the depth of nicasil should be enough but i will keep you posted. the cylinders i have measure the same as yours. if it works i will tell you what to do with the squish band on your heads if you want to run my pistons.
 
Hi Richie, That sounds good. I will send you an email so you can contact me directly. I am hoping to get my engine back to 1000cc during our winter. (your summer) In your earlier post you mention a long rod setup. What effect does this have ? Years ago it was the hot setup to fit a long rod kit to 250MX bikes. If I remember correctly it made the engine more torquey. It will be a busy winter as i'm also starting on another front end swap, using 49mm DRZ400 forks. Looking at the pics of your bikes it appears you run triple clamps with about a 20mm offset, i'm assuming the standard ones from whatever bike the forks are off. I am a bit worried about the reduction in steering lock this gives compared to the standard BMW front end. The last conversion I did I had a special set of clamps machined, with the standard GS offset, buts its a huge cost. I may give it a try with the DRZ clamps this time.
Cheers Phil
 
I have a Seibenrock kit 1000cc on an R800GS. It does not "Ping" nor does it vibe worse than a standard 1000. Oil consumption next to nowt. I've had 800 and 1000cc beemers and honestly can say that I think the Seibenrock 800 feels just as quick as a 1000, or maybe revs quicker. The smaller carbs seem to stay in balance for longer. The kit was on the bike when I bought it and has been there for 20k (Kms). I think the bike has 80k under its wheels. As I've just had the heads off to replace guides and ex valves I had a good look round the bores at the same time and they seem to be doing ok. Now, not sure that I'd stump up the cash to pay for a kit, I'd probably just buy a 1000cc in the first place. Overall I have no problems with it, just my tuppence worth!
 
hi phil the long rod kit has more torque and more power . the standard 100gs has about 47ft/lb at the wheel and about 51 bhp . the long rod kit gives 57ft/lb and 64bhp on standard heads it is all a lot more efficiant due to side thrust and rod angle. i normally just use these for racing because it gives you a higher base level to start tuning but the cost is high. your 800 to 1000 kit will give about 43 to 45 bhp.enough said.
 
the long rod kit gives 57ft/lb and 64bhp on standard heads it is all a lot more efficiant due to side thrust and rod angle. i normally just use these for racing because it gives you a higher base level to start tuning but the cost is high. your 800 to 1000 kit will give about 43 to 45 bhp.enough said.


Hmmmm.
My R80 with Siebenrock 800 to 1000 and a few other mods has slightly better torque then the long rod version. Total cost was less then 1.250€.

DynoAB.jpg
 
hi ali if you look at my results you will see the torque is in ft/lb when you do the conversion it comes out to 78 nm the same as you but my torque curve is much flatter at 5200 rpm mine still has 74 nm. when i do a few bits to my long rod kit i have in more than 104 nm at 5500rpm and still have 76 nm at 7000 rpm. your hp is also in din which is 1-2 more than my sae you also have no correction factor that i can see. not wanting to put a damper on your graph but your torque curve is not good . you should always aim for a flat torque curve not mount everest.
 


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