Powering Gebring Heated Jacket & Gloves - Question?

mgpaulie

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I recently acquired (second hand) some Gebring heated (under) jacket & gloves.

I intended to power from the BMW/Hella socket on the bike, however according to the bike handbook the Hella socket is rated @ 5amps (assume protected by a 5amp fuse). The Jacket is rated @ 6.4amps & the gloves @ 2.2amps, thus combined amps is greater that the rating of the Hella socket. I know that the amps for the Gebring jacket & gloves is likely quoted at full load and therefore likely to be mostly be much less than stated unless heating @ 100% but don't want to be blowing fuses on a really cold day.

Another option would be to install a seperate suitably rated & fused cable from the battery to the Gebring controller. Maybe this is the way to go.

What way are the collective powering heated gear? Are people using the onboard BMW Hella socket to power such things or doing it some other way?

Thx
 
the current draw on the accessory socket is controlled by the canbus. It cuts the power to the circuit if there is an overload. There is no physical fuse.

I have Keis gear which runs at much lower current. Jacket & heated insoles are under 3A so I use the accessory socket on my R1200RS as it is nicely located under your right thigh.

On other bikes, I have fitted the supplied and fused lead direct to the battery. In each case, I have a SAE pigtail emerging from the front of the seat to make (un)plugging easy. I have a Y piece to power each item from the one lead. If not in use, I can just tuck the lead under the seat.
 
I have the gerbing heated gloves and jacket, hella socket ok for gloves and jacket on number 1, but apart from that the socket will shut down. I now run from the Gerbing lead off the battery with a 15amp fuse in it
 
Very simple.

Fit a (very easy) Thunderbox. Then connect a suitable power output socket.
 
I have a Rocky Creek pump and when plugged into the Din socket its ok for a while until the tyre gets partly inflated and the Canbus kicks in lol
I have an SAE cable from battery and capped in a weatherproof cap under seat for when i need it.

Ive ordered some Keis gear (yesterday) which i will plug into that to bypass Canbus 👍
 
Thanks for all the feedback. My bike is a 2008 X Country, so no Canbus.
I didn't get the cable to connect the Gebring gear to the battery but thanks for the link.

I'll not be using the Hella socket and have a look at the Thunderbox (y), otherwise I will just get the required cable from Gebring.

(y) (y)
 
Very simple.

Fit a (very easy) Thunderbox. Then connect a suitable power output socket.
Hi Wapping, I've had a look at the Thunderbox - seems a nice bitta kit.
It says it has short circuit & overload protection. I assume the overload protection is on the Thunderbox itself e.g. a 16amp box would have over load say 17.6amps (16 +10%) ?

Did you keep the individual fusing on each connected bit of kit you connected to the Thunderbox?

Thanks
 
I would assume that the overload mentioned, relates to the limit inbuilt into the device. If it’s 16 amps, then the device should, I think, fail to safety, should the draw be say, 16.1 amps.

You can leave the fuses in if you want to, they won’t matter.
 
You are obviously more learned than me on such things. I do know that fuses are primarily there to protect the cabling / wiring but say I connected a 5amp rated device to the Thunderbox without its own individual fuse protection then the overload protection for this device would be > 16amps. I'm thinking that if the connected device went wrong then the wires could fry?
 
You are obviously more learned than me on such things. I do know that fuses are primarily there to protect the cabling / wiring but say I connected a 5amp rated device to the Thunderbox without its own individual fuse protection then the overload protection for this device would be > 16amps. I'm thinking that if the connected device went wrong then the wires could fry?
ideally you want a fuse as close to the load as possible and to be of the correct rating for said load

think of your domestic system. You might have a 15A breaker on your ring main but a bedside lamp will have a 3A fuse in the lead plugged into the mains as you really want that 3A fuse to blow before the thin wire to the lamp draws 15A. Same applies to your bike.

leave the fuse in the Gerbing (note spelling) lead and any other leads plugged into the Thunderbox
 
ideally you want a fuse as close to the load as possible and to be of the correct rating for said load

think of your domestic system. You might have a 15A breaker on your ring main but a bedside lamp will have a 3A fuse in the lead plugged into the mains as you really want that 3A fuse to blow before the thin wire to the lamp draws 15A. Same applies to your bike.

leave the fuse in the Gerbing (note spelling) lead and any other leads plugged into the Thunderbox
Thanks I'm the same as you hence my query to Wapping about leaving out the fuses as 'they won't matter'
In the the installation video on the Healtech website the guy says that there's no need to keep the fuses for any connected device - I'm not sure I would agree with that unless there is some other electrictrickery at play that I'm not aware of.

Anyways not too difficult to keep the individual fuses wired.

Thanks for the spelling correction too (y)
 
Leave the fuses in.

I realise now that I mistyped my reply. I typed one thing, whilst thinking another, then mistakenly edited it badly. :beerjug:
 


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