Project Katmandu: GS rebuild

hooraay got my wheel back

Great - got my wheel back from the Devon wheel company. Doug's done a great job. He built the wheel with a 5mm offset to the left.

IMG_4536.JPG


Now i've gone up to the 18" rim I have plenty of clearance on the Rim which was just catching the swing arm at it widest point before

IMG_4537.JPG


And with a 130 tyre on

IMG_4538.JPG


Got plenty of space for a 130 but a 140 is going to be a tight squeeze:

IMG_4540.JPG


IMG_4539.JPG


Doug said he could offset the RIM up to a 10mm offset - perhaps I should have taken him up on that. Anyway I'm quite with a 130 tyre on for now.

Right - plan is to get the bike on the road and try it out by next weekend!!
 
Looking good. When you say offset, this is done by having shorter spokes on one side & offsetting the rim? Or offsetting the hubby having spacers?
 
Looking good. When you say offset, this is done by having shorter spokes on one side & offsetting the rim? Or offsetting the hubby having spacers?

Doug built the wheel with the rim offset on the hub. He has to make up a special set of spokes to do this.
 
little progress

Still waiting for the rear shock to arrive from Germany before I try her on the road

I followed Rob's advice on getting out the rear suspension mount - using heat and vice

mono%20shock%20mount%20point.jpg


It came out great. I always forget to apply heat ... it just seams to make it so much easier

IMG_4544.JPG


I know have a question: I thought the rear brake arm could be rotated through 180 degrees to have the lever at the top rather than the bottom.

I have just tried this and found out of course that the brake actuation part only works one way up.

IMG_4543.JPG


Any ideas on what i do to get an upside down brake lever. I have hunted around on the net but not found the solution to this



spindle could
 
usually the pivot is grinded to have the same shape both side. This seems to be the only way to have the brake arm down side up.
 
more steps forward ...

Just thought I'd post a progress update. She's nearly there ...

IMG_4545.JPG


IMG_4547.JPG


The rear mud guard is off my running bike (for show) and doesn't quite sit right. When I get a new one I'll sit it further back. I think she'll look better with the single seat as well once I have acquired one of them.

Just waiting for Richie Moore to get me the bits to finish the rear brake and we'll be ready for a test ride.

For those who have "dissed" the monolever mod: i'll get Richie to make me up one of these too.

Anyone got a spare monolever lying around - with or without drive shaft?
 
I like it :thumb
But I'd extend the brake actuating rod at least 6" as you ain't gonna have any rear brake with that angle..:eek
 
But I'd extend the brake actuating rod at least 6" as you ain't gonna have any rear brake with that angle..:eek

:D yep rear brake needs a bit of work. Waiting the rear mod parts (brake pivot, rear cable and adapter) from Richie Moore so should soon look like this...

Moorespeed-BMW-GS-rear-brake-actuation-kit.jpg
 
With all the extra wheel movement,you're better off with a cable instead of a rod. You can get a lock up at max extension with the lever upside down.
 
looking good but the bars look very low or is it just the tank making it look that way what about the exhaust are you runing the standard one or fitting an after market one .

cheers all the best :beerjug:
 
looking good but the bars look very low or is it just the tank making it look that way what about the exhaust are you runing the standard one or fitting an after market one .

cheers all the best :beerjug:

Hi Bianchi: good observation. The fat bars were an ebay find - and you are right they are too low and too far forward. I need to find a pair to replace them. Its difficult to tell from the web sites what would be a good fat bar replacement so I don't know which one to order.

Exhaust: I'd like to run the standard one. Like the headlamp surround I think it is a character feature of the bike that I'd like to keep. I'll use the bike daily and I hate noisey exhausts - they do my head in, but I might find out about opening it up and seeing what's inside and if it can be reworked. I'll use the bike daily and I hate noisey exhausts so
 
The fat bars were an ebay find - and you are right they are too low and too far forward. I need to find a pair to replace them. Its difficult to tell from the web sites what would be a good fat bar replacement so I don't know which one to order.

I have Magura AX Bulge bars (I think... can check if you want), they are about the same bend, hight/pullback as the original GS PD bars. I use them with Rox-Risers to bring 'em up and back a bit.

John
 
I have Magura AX Bulge bars (I think... can check if you want), they are about the same bend, hight/pullback as the original GS PD bars. I use them with Rox-Risers to bring 'em up and back a bit.

John

Hi John,

That would be really useful. There are so many variants and dimensions I sort of got confused when looking.

The original bars are comfortable and I would have kept them except that the DRZ top yolk is build for fat bars so I thought I'd try some.

cheers

-Pete
 
That would be really useful.

Hi Pete, Magura EX.

However, if I was setting off on my trip to India again, I think I would use the standard steel bars. I high-sided it in the desert when I hit a patch of soft sand and bent the left bar back an inch or so. Then got taken out by a pick-up truck that bent the right bar by about the same amount:thumb

Had they been alloy bars, it might have been terminal and you don't want that in the middle of nowhere.
Just something to think about... I think Rox do a fat to thin riser.

Cheers,
John
 
What tyres are those?

Regards

Chris
 
Hi Pete, Magura EX.

However, if I was setting off on my trip to India again, I think I would use the standard steel bars. I high-sided it in the desert when I hit a patch of soft sand and bent the left bar back an inch or so. Then got taken out by a pick-up truck that bent the right bar by about the same amount:thumb

Had they been alloy bars, it might have been terminal and you don't want that in the middle of nowhere.
Just something to think about... I think Rox do a fat to thin riser.

Cheers,
John

good comments John. I'll think about that and look into the risers. I thought the purpose of alloy bars was to be stronger, which I guess they may be but once they break I guess you can't fix them?
 
What tyres are those?

Regards

Chris

Heidenau K60's. I am running them on my other G/S as well and have used them off road. I am very happy with them, although there are others on the forum who have had issues with them

cheers

-Pete
 


Back
Top Bottom