Project Katmandu: GS rebuild

[(RIP) Proff]

Don't try and do it in one go..
Plenty of Weasel piss and as others have said wind it out with washers, then as soon as you can fit a large socket over the bolt, use the washers again...
took me 6 days to get one out once, around 1/2" a day

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2652037&postcount=13

If you can find the thread on Bakerlonglegs g/s rebuild, I explain it better there ...

 

[pete.keys]

use washers behind the nut use them to press the bolt or "draw" the engine bolt out one side or t'other

Do not thump or beat or hammer or you will mushroom it and cause yourself a LOAD of grief

interesting this is a common problem. Everything came apart so easy apart from this.... thanks for the advice

 

[pete.keys]

Oh.. and whats the interesting looking twin shock bike you can see the back end of?

It's a 1973 triumph tr5t trail bike ... my next project when I finish the GS.

cheers

-Pete

 

[pete.keys]

won't even shift with ..

..a slide hammer

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Nope, never do, I've seen them snap off in the engine tho'

 

[Rob Farmer]

..a slide hammer

Not a chance with a slide hammer. You're going to have to drain the engine oil, pull both cylinders and the barrel studs. You will also need a breaker bar and a can of plus gas and lots of patience.

Flip the lot on it's side and pour the plus gas down the sides of the engine bolt, let it work in and then start waggling the breaker bar backwards and forwards, leave it, more plus gas etc. You will have to flip the bike over every now and again. Once it starts moving you will need a stack of washers to get put under the nuts to draw the bolt out.

I pull the engine bolts every couple of years and dose them in copperslip.

 

[Redboots]

I pull the engine bolts every couple of years and dose them in copperslip.

Duralac on mine. Zinc chromate paste. Get it from any good sailboat chandlers.

Duralac

Cheers,
John

 

[pete.keys]

everything had been easy up until now

 

[(RIP) Proff]

I reinstall them with a smear of Graphogen

 

[pete.keys]

use washers behind the nut use them to press the bolt or "draw" the engine bolt out one side or t'other

I didn't understand this to start with.

I do now - it worked a treat - actually quite easy in the end

Now why didn't I think of that .. thanks for the suggestions everyone

So engine is now out - over to dogbytes to do my frame mods

Now ... where's Richie Moore for my engine rebuild

 

[pete.keys]

Question: What to do with clutch parts?

whats best practice when rebuilding an engine when it comes to clutch parts?

I was planning on putting a new clutch in - but what about the diaphragm, and the plate and housing cover either side of the actual clutch plate? Do I just get them shot blasted and use as is?

In terms of actual clutch plate - I was thinking of using the more expensive oil resistant one from motorworks - any comments?

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q=21211451512&x=0&y=0

 

[pete.keys]

Screech when you pull the clutch in sounds like the release bearing. Have you got the one piece or earlier multipart one? it's usually the early ones that screech when the bearings skid and flatten off.

Hi Rob, I expected to find a release bearing in the clutch housing like on a car, but there isn't anything there. Do you mean the bearing next to the actuator arm?

 

[DrFarkoff]

it's on the back of the gearbox inside the little rubber bellows where the bolt goes thru from rear to front on the clutch arm

Make sure the push rod that passes thru the gearbox input shaft operates smoothly as if you didn't remove it before you split the two it may get bent!

Hi Rob, I expected to find a release bearing in the clutch housing like on a car, but there isn't anything there. Do you mean the bearing next to the actuator arm?

 

[ians]

I would get a 3 part clutch kit rather than reuse the old diaphram etc.

 

[pete.keys]

I would get a 3 part clutch kit rather than reuse the old diaphram etc.

Ok that sounds like a good shout. I have never seen such a kit advertized - I'll have a trawl around

 

[Rob Farmer]

Pete,

Don't forget I owe you at least one gearbox rebuild. Give me a shout when you're ready. I'd check the clutch components before you replace them you may find they just need a good scrub.

 

[pete.keys]

Pete,

Don't forget I owe you at least one gearbox rebuild. Give me a shout when you're ready. I'd check the clutch components before you replace them you may find they just need a good scrub.

Don't worry I won't forget

How do you check them? The clutch worked fine for a while and didn't slip at all under load - but then I got that screeching and clutch drag which as you say may be the bearing.

having said all that I have decided to give Richie Moore's pistons and top end a go - so I am expecting to get quite a few more horses going through the clutch

 

[pete.keys]

Advice on frame shot blasting

All,
Some advice of having my frame and swing arm shot blasted. Is there anything I need to protect ie are the following relevent?

- leaving the bearing races in
- putting screws bolts into threads so the threads don't get damaged
- put old swing arm pivots in to protect the threads
- cover the machined face on the swingarm where it joins with the bevel drive

Advice gratefully accepted: try not to make in contradictory

 

[MattW]

All,
Some advice of having my frame and swing arm shot blasted. Is there anything I need to protect ie are the following relevent?

- leaving the bearing races in
- putting screws bolts into threads so the threads don't get damaged
- put old swing arm pivots in to protect the threads
- cover the machined face on the swingarm where it joins with the bevel drive

Advice gratefully accepted: try not to make in contradictory

I've found it depends very much on the blasting company.

I've experienced both ends of the scale from an immaculate job where they plugged and masked all drillings and machined surfaces to a complete nightmare where they indiscriminately blasted the whole bloody thing with the wrong (way too aggressive) media.

I'd have a chat with the company you're using. That said, there's no harm leaving old bearings races in situ and plugging threads etc.

Same applies if you're going to get anything powder coated - the good companies use silicone bungs and special high temperature masking tape.

 

[Roger Chatterton]

All,
Some advice of having my frame and swing arm shot blasted. Is there anything I need to protect ie are the following relevent?

- leaving the bearing races in
- putting screws bolts into threads so the threads don't get damaged
- put old swing arm pivots in to protect the threads
- cover the machined face on the swingarm where it joins with the bevel drive

Advice gratefully accepted: try not to make in contradictory

Maybe also, protect the plate with the frame number and info on - might be a problem to clean off afterwards! Or , remove prior, and replace afterwards ?