Project Katmandu: GS rebuild

I second Roger's suggestion of removing the vin plate.. I didn't when I had the bitza's frame powdercoated as the coaters promised me it would be fine and would be masked up.. it wasn't masked and it also warped really badly! I moaned about it but got told I had left it with them and had "agreed" by choosing to do so that I have accepted the risks... :mad: That was the last time I'll be using them!
 
I second Roger's suggestion of removing the vin plate..

My VIN number as stamped on the frame tube, is nearly invisible with the powder coat. Might be worth masking that bit as you plan to go to parts foreign and they WILL want to compare that to whats on your carnet.

John
 
My VIN number as stamped on the frame tube, is nearly invisible with the powder coat. Might be worth masking that bit as you plan to go to parts foreign and they WILL want to compare that to whats on your carnet.

John

Do you think the shot blasting will erode the stampings on the frame?
 
the number stamped into the frame on the bitza survived the blasting and powdercoating.. it was just the little metal plate that got ruined.

As Redboots and other have said it seems to depend largely on who does the work as to wether they have experience of doing frames and what is concerned/what needs protecting etc.
 
frame hack

been dying to do this for ages.

I HATE this huge black carbuncle on the right hand side of the bike

work in progress

IMG_4588.JPG


30 mins later ...

IMG_4590.JPG


took the frame plate off - thanks for the reminder

oh and I forgot about the steering lock so need to see how to get this out - cover and lock (i think without key) (see other thread)
 
progress this week

took engine up to Richie Moore on Wednesday ... time to get on with everything else so its ready to strap in on its return.

Frame off to the shot blasters

before

IMG_4592.JPG


And after in Dogbytes workshop awaiting his frame mods.

IMG_4600.JPG


Playing around with what graphics to do on the tank. These I just copied off the internet, resized and stuck in place to see

IMG_4605.JPG


IMG_4609.JPG



IMG_4608.JPG
 
is this all for 3 hours work

I spent 3 hours with gizer, brillo pads, wire wool etc and this was as good as I got the bevel drive.

Anyone got any suggestions on how to take it further? Wire brush on drill?

IMG_4610.JPG


IMG_4611.JPG
 
interesting parts

some pictures of the paralever cable to monolever parts with upside down conversion as supplied by Richie Moore

IMG_4595.JPG
 
I spent 3 hours with gizer, brillo pads, wire wool etc and this was as good as I got the bevel drive.

Anyone got any suggestions on how to take it further? Wire brush on drill?

Bead blasting will give it a close to original finish. If you have a compressor you can buy a cheap gun and some glass bead and do it yourself on a tarp or similar. Chinese made bead blast cabinets are inexpensive and made for airhead owners IMO. :thumb

Wire brush on a drill will give an unsightly (IMO) lustre to the alloy.
 
I've just got my hands on a vapour blaster, needs a little TLC before I can use it but brings ally parts up like new. If I get it working before you put your bike back together you're welcome to come and use it.

I have a cheap bead blast cabinet, it gives a decent finish on ally but doesn't clean the really ground in stains you get in old bike cases.

The vapour blaster gives this finish

orig_TEMPY_008.jpg
 
I've just got my hands on a vapour blaster, needs a little TLC before I can use it but brings ally parts up like new. If I get it working before you put your bike back together you're welcome to come and use it.

Rob, how does a vapour blaster work? Is it just water or do you use some medium as well? I have seen the results first hand and it is bloody impressive.
 


Back
Top Bottom