Pump does not prime

Welshman

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:blastR1150GS 1999, was running strong, then died, no misfire, no funny tacho, Fuel Pump does not prime.

Fuel pump had been noisy so I replaced it, Bosch equivalent.

Fuel Pump still does not prime. Put 12V direct onto pump it runs.

Fuse is ok and gets 12V.

I have disabled the side stand switch and it is in neutral.

Iassume wiring loom, any other ideas?
 
Done these checks yet?
The connection block rhs of tank, the female sides slacken and open up if the connector is roughly opened.
Perhaps run 12v to the brown wire on the tank side of this connector and see if the pump primes.

Also swap the FP relay with one you know works - ie horn.
I've had issues with both resulting some frustration.
 
Done these checks yet?
The connection block rhs of tank, the female sides slacken and open up if the connector is roughly opened.
Perhaps run 12v to the brown wire on the tank side of this connector and see if the pump primes.

Also swap the FP relay with one you know works - ie horn.
I've had issues with both resulting some frustration.

Swapped Relay will try brown wire:beerjug:
 
Bump

Symptoms,

Was running strong, then motor just died, nothing at all, no misfire no flapping tacho, just dead.

Replaced fuel pump, nothing (but turns with 12v direct)

Lights work, starter spins

No fuel level display

Fuel pump does not prime when ignition switched on? No voltage on pins in pump connector when ignition swithched on.

swapped relays, fuel to horn, horn to motronic, no change

:confused:
 
Ignition Loom at headstock ?? Do a search on here there's loads of info

P.S. Do NOT ever feed 12 volt positive directly to a brown wire on a beemer Feed it thru a bulb so you do not get a dead short!

Brown wires are to the negative / frame earth points

I think the pump feed is the green and white BUT check the wiring diagram
 
May be the ignition switch wiring is broken internaly where it flexes around the headstock ? Would appear as if ignition is not coming on !:nenau
 
Ignition Loom at headstock ?? Do a search on here there's loads of info

P.S. Do NOT ever feed 12 volt positive directly to a brown wire on a beemer Feed it thru a bulb so you do not get a dead short!

Brown wires are to the negative / frame earth points

I think the pump feed is the green and white BUT check the wiring diagram

Thanks :thumb
 
I know you will have checked...

No fuel pump or fuel level display will happen when kill switch is set to off....
 
Ignition Loom at headstock ?? Do a search on here there's loads of info

P.S. Do NOT ever feed 12 volt positive directly to a brown wire on a beemer Feed it thru a bulb so you do not get a dead short!

Brown wires are to the negative / frame earth points

I think the pump feed is the green and white BUT check the wiring diagram

Oops, Sorry Welsh for my reference to the brown wire being live, got my wires mixed up as it were.:)
 
Connected problem with Fuel pump

On a connected subject.
I had to replace the fuel pump and level sensor unit on the 99T 1150GS because the green wire to the pump had overheated and snapped. I was using a work around with a pair of spade connectors but wanted to tidy it up. (stupid man)

Before putting it all together I bridged the male and female connectors with wires so that I could test the new pump and level sensor. I must have done something wrong as the 10A fuse for fuel pump relay popped.
I replaced the fuse, but still no pump. The level sensor is OK

Picture is worth a thousand words but I don't have a picture to show at present.

12V is present at the fuse. the supply through the ignition switch and kill switch seems Ok, so it looks as though the Motronics unit is not enabling the relay. Have I destroyed the Motronics unit? or is there another reason there is no 12v at the connector to the pump?

The new one has been sitting dry for a year. Is it safe to run either of the pumps dry, to test them? Can I put water in them rather than petrol?
 
On a connected subject.
I had to replace the fuel pump and level sensor unit on the 99T 1150GS because the green wire to the pump had overheated and snapped. I was using a work around with a pair of spade connectors but wanted to tidy it up. (stupid man)

Before putting it all together I bridged the male and female connectors with wires so that I could test the new pump and level sensor. I must have done something wrong as the 10A fuse for fuel pump relay popped.
I replaced the fuse, but still no pump. The level sensor is OK

Picture is worth a thousand words but I don't have a picture to show at present.

12V is present at the fuse. the supply through the ignition switch and kill switch seems Ok, so it looks as though the Motronics unit is not enabling the relay. Have I destroyed the Motronics unit? or is there another reason there is no 12v at the connector to the pump?

The new one has been sitting dry for a year. Is it safe to run either of the pumps dry, to test them? Can I put water in them rather than petrol?

I would not run anything but petrol through the pump, the fuel is a lubricant and coolant for the high pressure pump !:eek:
 
On a connected subject.
I had to replace the fuel pump and level sensor unit on the 99T 1150GS because the green wire to the pump had overheated and snapped. I was using a work around with a pair of spade connectors but wanted to tidy it up. (stupid man)

Before putting it all together I bridged the male and female connectors with wires so that I could test the new pump and level sensor. I must have done something wrong as the 10A fuse for fuel pump relay popped.
I replaced the fuse, but still no pump. The level sensor is OK

Picture is worth a thousand words but I don't have a picture to show at present.

12V is present at the fuse. the supply through the ignition switch and kill switch seems Ok, so it looks as though the Motronics unit is not enabling the relay. Have I destroyed the Motronics unit? or is there another reason there is no 12v at the connector to the pump?

The new one has been sitting dry for a year. Is it safe to run either of the pumps dry, to test them? Can I put water in them rather than petrol?

You really need to look at a wiring diagram and workout what interlocks there are which might prevent the pump running (or what failed component might do the same). I don't have my manual with me so can't help with this.

Don't test the pump in water. Diesel or paraffin might be ok - but I'm not sure if it'll affect seals.
 
I have traced through the wiring. That's what makes me worried about the ECU.
Next week, I'll mark up a section of the diagram.
on running the pump, I don't fancy working with petrol, but water is conductive etc. Perhaps I can get some paraffin - a bit less explosive!
I only need to run it for a few seconds to check it's turning. When I directly connect the "new pump" it does nothing except arc when I flash the wire on the battery. I need to do the same on the old one. That one was working OK before I took the module off the old tank
 
I have traced through the wiring. That's what makes me worried about the ECU.
Next week, I'll mark up a section of the diagram.
on running the pump, I don't fancy working with petrol, but water is conductive etc. Perhaps I can get some paraffin - a bit less explosive!
I only need to run it for a few seconds to check it's turning. When I directly connect the "new pump" it does nothing except arc when I flash the wire on the battery. I need to do the same on the old one. That one was working OK before I took the module off the old tank

My pump runs fine from 12v, but does not get power from the "loom" the fuses have power, the ABS relay runs lights work starter works, but yes, ECU seems dead.:blast
 


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