Push rod cam followers

[DrFarkoff]

Hey guys! Your bikes - you can lube them with porridge for all the difference it makes to me.

But BP's Castrol brand knows a thing or two about motorcycle specific oil - the world's No1 two-wheeled lubricant brand.

They make both mineral and fully synthetic motorcycle oils.

See what they recommend for your airhead:

https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/product-finder.html

Do share the results....

Yeah Hurst the local BM dealer did that many years back

Your 1150 and 1200 are recommended for Fully synth oils !!! Of course Castrol was the partner!

Load of bollox!! If you are not racing it then Mineral for an airhead (Oilhead and Hexhead!!) is plenty Ample

Funny how that has been reverted to Mineral for both in the dealership

1200s were spec'd for mineral from the Factory!! I know because I had to to a service induction course via my foreman who attended Bracknell Pre launch for the technician induction!

You keep listening to the Oil sellers Propaganda

I don;t know what happened Gregg but you seem quite Grumpy these days !! I hope that is not a permanent thing!!

Everyone has a choice and try to remember that just because they do not agree with you does NOT make them wrong!

 

[mikeyboy]

1200 were specced with mineral 20/50 when 1st came out £28 for oil at service time.
Bumw changed this to fully synth a year or so later,£80 for oil.
Make of that as you please.
I use 20/50 semi on 1200 as that’s the customer expectation.still £50 +
Airheads get 20/50 classic as posted above.
Cam follower wear is nothing to do with classic oils.
More likely historic lack of oil changes and more recently lack of regular use.
Let’s not forget our cherished old bikes now were once thrashed to death hacks which were worth very little in the 90’s

 

[GreyHairedWombat]

Was the rocker arm tight on its shaft or was it pinched between the support posts?

Sorry, a bit behind in checking my post. Thank you for responding. I would say it was tight between the support posts rather than tight on the shaft. When I fitted I noted it was difficult to slide over the relevant studs. Exhaust roker was fine.

 

[Greg Masters]

I don’t know what happened Greg but you seem quite Grumpy these days !! I hope that is not a permanent thing!!

You are my wife. I claim my £5.

 

[mikeyboy]

Sorry, a bit behind in checking my post. Thank you for responding. I would say it was tight between the support posts rather than tight on the shaft. When I fitted I noted it was difficult to slide over the relevant studs. Exhaust roker was fine.

Early type rockers need to have the end float adjusted by moving the posts to get the desired gap/float
.05 to.4 if memory serves.
Later type are shimmed to obtain the correct clearance

 

[DrFarkoff]

You are my wife. I claim my £5.

Ah Haaaa!! Normal service has been resumed

 

[theoneandonly]

the marking on the followers , is near enough identical to what happens to Guzzi's .
you get "tree rings" as they begin to decline , change them then , to save the camshaft . if they are as shown , the cam is either damaged or about to be . drop your sump and do an oil and filter change too.

 

[GreyHairedWombat]

Early type rockers need to have the end float adjusted by moving the posts to get the desired gap/float
.05 to.4 if memory serves.
Later type are shimmed to obtain the correct clearance

Thank you. If too tight do you have any recommendations on how to free up?

 

[Greg Masters]

Are you using an OEM or aftermarket camshaft?

Reason for asking - cam follower face wear can be significantly reduced if the cam follower rotates.

CF rotation can be promoted by slightly off-setting the cam lobe from the centre-line of the CF and/or by a tapered cam profile across the lobe width.

I dunno if the OEM camshaft is offset and/or tapered, but suspect that it is more likely to be than an aftermarket cam.

 

[GreyHairedWombat]

Are you using an OEM or aftermarket camshaft?

Reason for asking - cam follower face wear can be significantly reduced if the cam follower rotates.

CF rotation can be promoted by slightly off-setting the cam lobe from the centre-line of the CF and/or by a tapered cam profile across the lobe width.

I dunno if the OEM camshaft is offset and/or tapered, but suspect that it is more likely to be than an aftermarket c

Bought used good condition original BMW cams from Motorworks which rotate nicely.
The roker was tight between posts and I damaged one bearing being ham fisted.
Now about to fit new needle roller bearings into the roker and then refit.
I want to make sure I don't damage and it will rotate nicely between the posts

 

[mikeyboy]

Thank you. If too tight do you have any recommendations on how to free up?

Slacken off one of the head stud nuts and the post will have a certain amount of movement on the head.
I normally slacken off the upper head stud nut ,then insert a .15 feeler gauge in between the upper edge of the rocker and the post.
Then nip up the nut to @10 nm.
The clearance is specified at 0.05 and 0.4 mm,I normally aim for between 0.1 and 0.15
If with the nut nipped up at 10 nm the clearance seems ok torque the head nut up to factory spec and recheck.
If it’s tight or loose when nipped up you can use a brass or alloy drift to move the post and get the required clearance ,then torque up and recheck end float.
If it needs more adjustment slacken off and repeat

 

[Greg Masters]

Bought used good condition original BMW cams from Motorworks which rotate nicely.
The roker was tight between posts and I damaged one bearing being ham fisted.
Now about to fit new needle roller bearings into the roker and then refit.
I want to make sure I don't damage and it will rotate nicely between the posts

To be clear, I was referring to the cam-followers rotating....

 

[GreyHairedWombat]

Slacken off one of the head stud nuts and the post will have a certain amount of movement on the head.
I normally slacken off the upper head stud nut ,then insert a .15 feeler gauge in between the upper edge of the rocker and the post.
Then nip up the nut to @10 nm.
The clearance is specified at 0.05 and 0.4 mm,I normally aim for between 0.1 and 0.15
If with the nut nipped up at 10 nm the clearance seems ok torque the head nut up to factory spec and recheck.
If it’s tight or loose when nipped up you can use a brass or alloy drift to move the post and get the required clearance ,then torque up and recheck end float.
If it needs more adjustment slacken off and repeat

Many thanks. This is very useful info